Mk3 Electric Start Sprag replacement

I purchased 3ea DC4127(3C) sprags about 2 year ago ($60), installed one in a buddies Mk3 along with a $199 eBay starter.
Been working fine , maybe 6000 miles, 1000 starts.
Now the starters are $299 eBay.
We never thought about sprocket , just stuck the sprag in.

Mine is sounding bad, what is the easiest way to only change the sprag please.?

The easiest way is to buy the CNW parts. You need the hardened sprocket center as the sprag eventually chatters and eats grooves into the original softer metal.

Finally had the OEM (edit - as purchased) sprag fail.
Replaced with $20 new sprag, seems fine, easy to start.

Pieces fell out as the original was removed.

My $17 Chinese sprag is still working fine, 5 years now.

Glen

Yes , the sprag clutch is not the issue anymore..they all fail sooner or later. The real issue is chattering , as time and wear goes on. A stronger cage would be nice. But just buy the hardened front sprockets from C.N.W. No more biting grabs into soft original steel metal . Bite the bullet. $.

p400 said:

Finally had the OEM sprag fail.

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Not the factory original, however, as that would have been a 14-sprag item.

The CNW Mark 3 upgrade kit comes with a 14 tooth sprag. In my opinion, there are several issues with the OEM sprag assembly. An18 tooth sprag is only one of them (although as L.A.B. says, 14 tooth were OEM). With the 4 extra teeth in the 18 tooth sprag, it significantly reduces the strength of the races. I believe this is why you see sprags come out in pieces when a repair is done. The other issue is material and heat treat of the original sprocket and sprag gear.

I am also having sprag Issues on a Mark III. Got everything reassembled with the open side outboard, put it in neutral, gears will not disengage. Gears do disengage when I pull in the clutch. Hate the thought of doing it all over again!!!

Are you certain you got down to 1st? Can be awkward. Maybe primary chain tension is too tight?

nortonmargie said:

I am also having sprag Issues on a Mark III. Got everything reassembled with the open side outboard, put it in neutral, gears will not disengage. Gears do disengage when I pull in the clutch. Hate the thought of doing it all over again!!!

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Sounds like a clutch/gearbox issue. If you have put the sprag in backwards, the starter won't engage, and if you kick start it you have a danger of destroying your starter motor. Never had a primary chain on a Mk3 too tight, seen plenty that were slack as the chain was worn out. Indeed impossible to get it 'too tight' as the chain is tensioned by the hydraulic tensioner that only develops its hydraulic pressure/lock when running.

nortonmargie said:

I am also having sprag Issues on a Mark III. Got everything reassembled with the open side outboard, put it in neutral, gears will not disengage. Gears do disengage when I pull in the clutch. Hate the thought of doing it all over again!!!

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As a Mk3 owner I'm struggling to understand what you mean.

nortonmargie said:

I am also having sprag Issues on a Mark III.

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Were these "issues" (problems) the same both before and after the reassembly?

nortonmargie said:

Got everything reassembled with the open side outboard,...

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So, you fitted the sprag assembly with the individual sprags angled as shown in the drawing below and not flipped over in the opposite direction which can occur even when the cages are fitted correctly?

nortonmargie said:

...put it in neutral, gears will not disengage.

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Do you mean the starter motor drive train "gears" (so the sprag assembly) is not disengaging when the crankshaft is turning in the normal direction of rotation?
Do you mean that once the engine has started the starter drive train continues to turn with the crankshaft?
Or something else, or not the starter drive gears?

nortonmargie said:

Gears do disengage when I pull in the clutch.

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...And when you do, what, exactly?