MK111 Neutral .

Torontonian · Jun 15, 2023

Coming back from Klaus's CVMG BBQ I could not find neutral at stop lights and when arriving home no neutral light . This was not sudden , but quickly getting worse until home . Ideas ?
I'll take off the primary outer tomorrow to disassemble clutch , perhaps the nut backed off . But the switch slowly died at the same time which should not be related .

L.A.B. · Jun 16, 2023

Torontonian said:
I'll take off the primary outer tomorrow to disassemble clutch , perhaps the nut backed off . But the switch slowly died at the same time which should not be related .

If the switch circuit and bulb are working normally, then personally, the neutral switch would be the first thing I'd want to check.

Deets55 · Jun 16, 2023

I had the "button" on the cam plate wear out. This would not allow the pin on the switch to work. I welded a little ball over the "button" and shaped it with a file. Since then I discovered that the "button" is available as a seperate part. This might account for you problem finding neutral. I would back the switch out all the way and see if that helps. That way you can check the electrical function as well as seeing if it is fouling in the camplate.

I also had a problem with a brand new AN switch. It had a tendency to leak oil through the body. I repaired my old switch while waiting for a new replacement part, the repaired switch is still in the gearbox. I believe AN might have had a problem with these switches for a while. There might be an updated version now.

kommando · Jun 16, 2023

The switch is a repurposed Classic Mini reverse light switch. So you may get a more reliable replacement by going NOS or using another supplier than Lucas (Wassells).

marshg246 · Jun 16, 2023

Deets55 said:
I had the "button" on the cam plate wear out. This would not allow the pin on the switch to work. I welded a little ball over the "button" and shaped it with a file. Since then I discovered that the "button" is available as a seperate part. This might account for you problem finding neutral. I would back the switch out all the way and see if that helps. That way you can check the electrical function as well as seeing if it is fouling in the camplate.

I also had a problem with a brand new AN switch. It had a tendency to leak oil through the body. I repaired my old switch while waiting for a new replacement part, the repaired switch is still in the gearbox. I believe AN might have had a problem with these switches for a while. There might be an updated version now.

Also, there are two "height" buttons. I think AN only supplies the taller one. Simon (AN) is working on a replacement for the switch that should completely eliminate the problem and stop the oil leaks - hopefully available soon.

FYI, the genuine Lucas switch that is now available will not work with the shorter button or a worn button.

Torontonian · Jun 16, 2023

Today pulled apart the primary outer cover suspecting a loose clutch nut but it was solid and then pulled apart the clutch ( bronze plates ) . The new CNW clutch center looked real good . Cleaned the plates of black goo ( very small amounts ) . Reassembled now ,but this time brought in the adjuster very close to the push rod , just before touching it .
Next to the neutral switch . Pulled it and green oil went all over the road . Mopped it up with my neighbour's help . Turned on ign . and pressed in the switch plunger to full in and the ( new bulb ) illuminated . Could be an adjuster lock nut issue I'm hoping ( readjustment tomorrow ) . Please God don't let it be a quadrant weld up issue with metal .
As for gearbox oil , I don't want to start up a new oil thread , but I had changed out the GB oil to Red line Motorcycle 80 W. about a month ago .
None had migrated into the primary as I run the main shaft seal to keep it out .
Should I refill with this product ... or I have a bottle of V-Twin Red Line Transmission Gear Oil on the shelf .

Deets55 · Jun 17, 2023

Torontonian said:
Today pulled apart the primary outer cover suspecting a loose clutch nut but it was solid and then pulled apart the clutch ( bronze plates ) . The new CNW clutch center looked real good . Cleaned the plates of black goo ( very small amounts ) . Reassembled now ,but this time brought in the adjuster very close to the push rod , just before touching it .
Next to the neutral switch . Pulled it and green oil went all over the road . Mopped it up with my neighbour's help . Turned on ign . and pressed in the switch plunger to full in and the ( new bulb ) illuminated . Could be an adjuster lock nut issue I'm hoping ( readjustment tomorrow ) . Please God don't let it be a quadrant weld up issue with metal .
As for gearbox oil , I don't want to start up a new oil thread , but I had changed out the GB oil to Red line Motorcycle 80 W. about a month ago .
None had migrated into the primary as I run the main shaft seal to keep it out .
Should I refill with this product ... or I have a bottle of V-Twin Red Line Transmission Gear Oil on the shelf .

FWIW, I got a couple of switch adjustments before I had to tear apart the gear box. What happens is the pin on the switch cuts a groove on the button, eventually the groove gets too deep. Then when you adjust the switch too far in the switch body will hit the cam plate and not allow it to rotate. Now you can't change gears. I also use a Dowty washer on the switch body.
Good news is you don't need the light, so you can order up a new button on a future order to AN. I think they just pop in and out with a punch. I welded mine because I didn't realize that the button could be purchased and I hate to wait for parts.
Glad you identified the shift problem.

Torontonian · Jun 17, 2023

Deets55 said:
FWIW, I got a couple of switch adjustments before I had to tear apart the gear box. What happens is the pin on the switch cuts a groove on the button, eventually the groove gets too deep. Then when you adjust the switch too far in the switch body will hit the cam plate and not allow it to rotate. Now you can't change gears. I also use a Dowty washer on the switch body.
Good news is you don't need the light, so you can order up a new button on a future order to AN. I think they just pop in and out with a punch. I welded mine because I didn't realize that the button could be purchased and I hate to wait for parts.
Glad you identified the shift problem.

Got up early to fill up the cleaned clutch and primary with 10.5 Oz. of 20-50 .
Cut the switch wires at the connectors and re-screwed the working switch back into the shell . I don't much need the neutral switch which works and the bulb is new . Not in prime summer ridings , I can live with it until winter ?
All because I had to battle traffic through 2 street festivals to hit Fort York and the Pow Wow. So glad I did. Going back again tomorrow , different route to plan there n' back . Awesome native dancing and drumming .

Torontonian · Jun 26, 2023

Torontonian said:
Got up early to fill up the cleaned clutch and primary with 10.5 Oz. of 20-50 .
Cut the switch wires at the connectors and re-screwed the working switch back into the shell . I don't much need the neutral switch which works and the bulb is new . Not in prime summer ridings , I can live with it until winter ?
All because I had to battle traffic through 2 street festivals to hit Fort York and the Pow Wow. So glad I did. Going back again tomorrow , different route to plan there n' back . Awesome native dancing and drumming .

So it seems the neutral switch works fine but the 48 year old solder connections to the 2 points were perhaps cracked or weak . Fresh solder . Fresh connectors . All good again .

MK111 Neutral .

Torontonian

L.A.B.

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Deets55

kommando

marshg246

Torontonian

Deets55

Torontonian

Torontonian

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