Method for getting mk3 rear wheel (with disc) past mudguard

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Mart UK

Mart UK

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Hi,

I managed to get the wheel out from under the mudguard, by standing on the left side and pulling the bike on its centrestand over towards me. It was pretty much past the balance point, to have enough room. It was very tricky, using my feet to shuffle the wheel out. I can't see how I'll be able to get the wheel back in on my own. Is there a better way to do this solo? I don't have a proper bike lift. I do have a hydraulic Jack, but I don't see anywhere to safely place it, to lift the bike. I'm reluctant to remove the rear mudguard, but is this my best option?

Thanks.
 
Use a ratchet strap from the center stand going forward to stop the center stand from retracting. Cut some plywood squares ( maybe 6” x 6” ). Tip the bike in one direction, either left or right and slide one plywood square under the CC leg. Tip the bike the other direction and put a square under the other leg. Repeat as necessary until desired height is reached. Reverse procedure after wheel is installed.
 
Mart UK said:
I managed to get the wheel out from under the mudguard, by standing on the left side and pulling the bike on its centrestand over towards me. It was pretty much past the balance point, to have enough room. It was very tricky, using my feet to shuffle the wheel out.
Click to expand...

Once the bike is balanced and with the side stand down for support I roll the wheel out with my right hand...



...and replace it the same way by leaning the bike over again and roll the wheel (positioned within reach) back.
 
That's just showing off :)

I didn't seem to have as much clearance as in the video, it was a wiggle and scrape past, rather than a roll. I can't see me doing that, but I'll have another go. Thanks.
 
I was just thinking that. The wheel doesn't touch it, but it might be causing the calliper to get in the way.
 
Mart UK said:
The wheel doesn't touch it, but it might be causing the calliper to get in the way.
Click to expand...

With the calliper and carrier plate hanging on the hook (if there? See video at 0:55 sec.) then it would seem to be well clear or at least be free to swing on the hook and, therefore, away from the pannier frame so shouldn't obstruct wheel removal.
 
I don't have a hook, but I cable tied it to the same point. The panniers fit into 2 vertical rails. The front one is right where the brake hose places the caliper. The hose isn't long enough to let the calliper go behind or in front of the rail, so it has to be inboard of that rail. Probably 2"-3" in from where it could be. That must make it tighter, plus not having the luxury of studying it and working out the best angle (because I'm struggling a bit to hold the bike), made it tough to get the wheel out. Tougher than I expected.
 
New speedo drive arrived. But, cleaning up my back wheel, it seems it is the 2x2 rim, not 3x1. So, it looks like the front and rear rims were switched round when they were laced up. Do I need to be concerned? The spokes appear to enter the holes in the dimples at the correct angles.

I've put the wheel back on for now. I thought this would ge a good time to renew the drive chain. Annoyingly, in an email conversation, I specifically agreed a 102 link chain (23T sprocket). I don't have a chain rivet tool and I made that clear. It was clearly understood I needed it to be 102, with a split link to attach it. It came with 109 links (55 plates). When I queried it the reply was get an angle grinder on it, but be careful you don't ruin it, "measure twice cut once". Really pi***d off.

Presumably, I only need to grind one rivet off one face, then pull the link off from behind to remove the unnecessary links? It won't matter if I catch some of the outer plate the rivet goes through, as it will be replaced by the spare plate with the split pin?

Hopefully the "is this worth it?" feeling will go away. :)
 
Mart UK said:
New speedo drive arrived. But, cleaning up my back wheel, it seems it is the 2x2 rim, not 3x1. So, it looks like the front and rear rims were switched round when they were laced up. Do I need to be concerned?
Click to expand...

If they are not the original Dunlop rims then who knows plus the front rim would normally be 1x1, not 2x2.
 
Yes OK, 1x1, dimples alternating sides, although the holes are at different angle on each dimple, repeating after the 4th. They're stainless, so not original.
 
Mart UK said:
Yes OK, 1x1, dimples alternating sides, although the holes are at different angle on each dimple, repeating after the 4th.
Click to expand...

Yes.

As for the chain then assuming the old one has the correct number of links then count the links or lay the new chain alongside the old (allowing for the split link) and cut (grind) to the required length.
 
Yes, I tried it on the bike and counted the old one and marked it for grinding. Just need to get on with it. Was annoyed about the rear rim. Then putting the wheel back on was a PIA. Who designed that arrangement? Then the chain was just dandy! Calmed down now.

I am wondering what's next, though. Be nice to just ride it for a while.:)
 
Mart UK said:
I don't have a hook, snipped
Click to expand...
Martin, Look for the item linked below on the right side of the seat rail section of the frame.

Mk III Rear Caliper Support Bracket

If you truly don't have one, buy one! A lot of owners have no clue what that bracket is for.

You could always place a 2X6 piece of wood under the bike, so that it fits under the center stand. That will gain you an extra 1 3/4" of clearance to remove & re-install the rear wheel.
 
I look on in awe at the practicality and attention to detail of old BMWs (I think) that had the rear mud guard hinged to assist with rear wheel removal. I guess it might look a little clunky but co convenient
al
 
chaztuna said:
Martin, Look for the item linked below on the right side of the seat rail section of the frame.

Mk III Rear Caliper Support Bracket

If you truly don't have one, buy one! A lot of owners have no clue what that bracket is for.

You could always place a 2X6 piece of wood under the bike, so that it fits under the center stand. That will gain you an extra 1 3/4" of clearance to remove & re-install the rear wheel.
Click to expand...
Yes, I did the centrestand shuffle to get it an inch higher on wood. That was enough to make the tipping easier. It just doesn't feel safe pulling the bike to its balance point, then reaching over trying to angle the wheel right, roll it in, etc. The luggage frame runs close to the rear sub-frame, which reduces the handhold options. I cannot imagine doing it on the road, if I get a puncture.

Maybe saw the rear of the mudguard, put a wing nut on the lights assembly, and hinge it, like a Vincent... :)
 
Mart UK said:
Yes, I did the centrestand shuffle to get it an inch higher on wood. That was enough to make the tipping easier. It just doesn't feel safe pulling the bike to its balance point, then reaching over trying to angle the wheel right, roll it in, etc.
Click to expand...

You can't be using the right technique. Side stand down, steering at full RH lock, left hand on the RH grip holding the front brake full on.
With the bike over and resting on the side stand then it doesn't take much effort to hold it there so the loose rear wheel can be attended to.

If an old git like me can lean the bike over one-handed then the average person should be able to do this using both hands.
 
No, I've been lifting from the opposite side top frame. I'll practice that. Thanks.
 
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