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No - additional advance does NOT add power at higher RPM. First you set your timing at full advance at high RPM. 28 deg far a small chamber high compression motor. 31deg max for low compression. 28 deg (sometimes less) is best for a high comp Norton racing motor as proven on dynos by many tuners. More advance than that at high RPM will cause pinging and damage. All the advance does is give you retarded timing at lower RPM so you can start it without kickback.You want full advance by 2000 or 3000max RPM for best power at lower RPMs - same as original stock points ignition with mechanical advance. All the EIs with long advance curves have reduced power at low RPM because the timing is too retarded at lower RPMs. In this respect most currently available Norton EIs suck.You can spend $1000+ for an EI with an ideal full advance at 2000RPM (matching original mechanical advance). Someone is currently putting together an affordable EI ignition that will achieve this ideal advance curve to match the original points advance curve. Its been street tested and it does indeed provide more power at lower RPM - same power at high RPM.I achieved this in the mid 1980s with a Boyer that was modied with resistors to shorten the advance curve. The description is in my race manual. I did it to get more drive coming out of the turns.Note that fixed advance is prefered for racing (as long as you can start it).
No - additional advance does NOT add power at higher RPM. First you set your timing at full advance at high RPM. 28 deg far a small chamber high compression motor. 31deg max for low compression. 28 deg (sometimes less) is best for a high comp Norton racing motor as proven on dynos by many tuners. More advance than that at high RPM will cause pinging and damage. All the advance does is give you retarded timing at lower RPM so you can start it without kickback.
You want full advance by 2000 or 3000max RPM for best power at lower RPMs - same as original stock points ignition with mechanical advance. All the EIs with long advance curves have reduced power at low RPM because the timing is too retarded at lower RPMs. In this respect most currently available Norton EIs suck.
You can spend $1000+ for an EI with an ideal full advance at 2000RPM (matching original mechanical advance). Someone is currently putting together an affordable EI ignition that will achieve this ideal advance curve to match the original points advance curve. Its been street tested and it does indeed provide more power at lower RPM - same power at high RPM.
I achieved this in the mid 1980s with a Boyer that was modied with resistors to shorten the advance curve. The description is in my race manual. I did it to get more drive coming out of the turns.
Note that fixed advance is prefered for racing (as long as you can start it).
