Madass140 Single Throttle Cable Amal Kit

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maylar said:
Since you've (ahem) blanked off the choke cable hole, I assume that it's still possible to use a choke with this contraption? My 850 likes the choke and I won't delete it.
Click to expand...

I don't think the chokes will work with the standard cables, Don supplies special lower cables for the throttle to accommodate the extra height added by the gantry, I suspect choke cables would need the extra length as well.
 
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acadian said:
There's also a grub screw that secures the gantry arms onto flats milled in the


I don't think the chokes will work with the standard cables, Don supplies special lower cables for the throttle to accommodate the extra height added by the gantry, I suspect choke cables would need the extra length as well.
Click to expand...
The chokes work fine with the standard cables. You may want to remove the locknuts on the adjusters to counteract the increased height of the carb tops due to the mounting plate being sandwiched between them and the tops.

Regarding the original idle adjuster screws, I just cut the tips off and screwed them in all the way. Less chance of them dropping out that way.


Cheers,

cliffa
 
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What, exactly does this mod do as far as actual carb operation is concerned? Does it make them easier to sync, less tension on the twist grip, etc? It looks very well made and that, in itself is a good thing but wondering what sort of operational improvement it makes.
 
cliffa said:
The chokes work fine with the standard cables. You may want to remove the locknuts on the adjusters to counteract the increased height of the carb tops due to the mounting plate being sandwiched between them and the tops.

Regarding the original idle adjuster screws, I just cut the tips off and screwed them in all the way. Less chance of the dropping out that way.


Cheers,

cliffa
Click to expand...
I had to shorten the cable outers 8mm for the choke slides to bottom out. No big deal and they work fine
 
MexicoMike said:
What, exactly does this mod do as far as actual carb operation is concerned? Does it make them easier to sync, less tension on the twist grip, etc? It looks very well made and that, in itself is a good thing but wondering what sort of operational improvement it makes.
Click to expand...
My experience so far is that it makes them easier to sync, and keep in sync than 2 cables. It also seems to quicken the throttle (at least to me) so you have to retrain your hand to avoid jerky operation.
 
blaisestation said:
I had to shorten the cable outers 8mm for the choke slides to bottom out. No big deal and they work fine
Click to expand...
They must have been pretty tight cables the I guess, as I just measured the plate on mine, and it's 6.5mm. Like I said removed the adjuster locknuts and got back 3.5 mm. and they both bottom. I wonder if the choke slides actually need to bottom out to be effective?


Cheers,

cliffa.
 
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cyclegeezer said:
My experience so far is that it makes them easier to sync, and keep in sync than 2 cables. It also seems to quicken the throttle (at least to me) so you have to retrain your hand to avoid jerky operation.
Click to expand...
I agree, in fact I had to move the indicator switch to the other side, as I was having trouble moderating the throttle at the same time as trying to operate it.

Cheers,

cliffa.
 
cliffa said:
I agree, in fact I had to move the indicator switch to the other side, as I was having trouble moderating the throttle at the same time as trying to operate it.

Cheers,

cliffa.
Click to expand...
I'm considering that swap myself. My Trident has the indicators on the left and I may as well make the Norton the same.
 
cyclegeezer said:
I'm considering that swap myself. My Trident has the indicators on the left and I may as well make the Norton the same.
Click to expand...
Not to go offtrack, but I didn't like the switch layout anyway, so I rewired them and now have indicators, horn & flasher on the left. On the right top kill (where you can get to it if the bike's on the deck), centre is high /low beam and bottom starter. It's much better to operate and to me more logical.


Cheers,

cliffa.
 
Dave, I set my system up on the bench with the throttle and cables that you would use on the bike, hold a spare handle bar
in the vice , slide on the throttle hand piece and sync your carbs on the bench.
Then install them in the bike , check if necessary although after a few times , I found it wasnt necessary to check on the bike as the bench sync'ing was accurate.
I over drilled the top plate screw holes as mine had a tendency to bind when all four screws were tight.
This on my 600 Norton race bike with Amal methanol Mk 1's and initially on the 850 race bike using 32 mm Premiers.
The 850 now has 34mm Smoothbores and the gantry doesnt fit those.
Regards Mike
 


Here's the installation video. It's relatively easy. Just follow the instructions and maybe even the video. The hardest part is loosening the manifold.

I'm not sure if people understand how much of difference this contraption will make. @madass140 really outdid himself with this one.

Note that the idle adjuster is difficult to turn, it helps if you lift the slides a little. This means it won't turn on itself too. Very slight turns make a difference to the idle. Don't be surprised if you can get it to idle smoothly at 600 rpm with this setup.
 
For whatever reason, my idle adjuster IS (fairly) easy to turn. I did however, snug a small zip tie around the knob and snipped off the excess. This provides a small nub to help turn the knob. 1/4 turn is all the adjustment you'll ever need. Since I have removed the chokes, this makes it easy to adjust idle for cold morning warmups. I had a small issue with the install until I realized my new Premiers were butting up against each other. Slight application of file solved that problem. I haven't touched the carbs other adjustments since the install, over a year ago.
 
Yakatak said:
For whatever reason, my idle adjuster IS (fairly) easy to turn. I did however, snug a small zip tie around the knob and snipped off the excess. This provides a small nub to help turn the knob. 1/4 turn is all the adjustment you'll ever need. Since I have removed the chokes, this makes it easy to adjust idle for cold morning warmups. I had a small issue with the install until I realized my new Premiers were butting up against each other. Slight application of file solved that problem. I haven't touched the carbs other adjustments since the install, over a year ago.
Click to expand...

That's an indication you didn't get Commando-specific Premier carbs. Commando ones are shaped to clear when they are on the Commando manifolds. Something to look for when buying any Commando carb, not just the Premiers.

I prefer not to adjust the idle for warmup. Too much messing around.
 
This kit, which I just ordered, hopefully will make syncing the carbs and over all throttle operation great again.
That tip about screwing the spring on the cable instead compressing the works was a revelation to me and also a duh moment.
Of all the mods I will have done to this bike this is right up there with the CNW starter kit.
Mods in order of importance:
CNW starter
Madass140 throttle kit
Madass140 resleeve kit
Swingarm pivot clamp thingy
Dave Taylor head steady
Rear brake safety spring.
Halogen head light.
xs650 breather
 
the lower end of the cable has 2 nuts , Put one on each side of the riser. not both together
 
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