Looking for a Commando project - any gotchas?

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Okay, “gotchas” probably isn’t the correct word.

Hi everybody! New forum member here. Longtime fan of Commandos, finally getting to a place where I can take on the project.

I’m hoping to finish my BSA project this winter and am shopping for a Commando project. I have my preferences, but I’m truly interested in every year. I’m currently in research mode.

Are there any specific things to look out for with a Commando when shopping for a project motorcycle? Aside from a typical project bike assessment, are there things particular to Commandos that I should be checking for?

I appreciate any information you might be able to share. I’m beyond excited to start the hunt and officially join the Commando club.

For those that might have concerns, if I’m anything, it’s a motorcycle restorer. I won’t be hot rodding anything. Not that there’s anything wrong with it, it’s just not my style. The closest I’d ever got to a hot rodded Commando would be a stock Combat engine
 
A good 850 Commando, myself prefer the kick start models a good 74 be my choice, if it's a basket case you looking for then you got to ask why it's a basket case, or one that is showing its age and needs refurbishing and freshen up or a good one all done up and just need to change it to your ways, it all depends on how much money you are willing to spend in buying one or how much money you are willing to throw at one that needs work, are you going to be doing the work yourself or pay someone to do it, the prices for good Commando's are getting up there now, but they seem to be cheaper in the US of A, but whichever way you go expect to throw money into it, have deep pockets, myself would just buy one that is a rider and do it up as you get to know it better, even upgrades cost money it all depends how much you are willing to spend and how much money you are willing to spend on one after you get one.
But everyone has their own opinions, just start looking and see what's out there and think about it before you buy as there are some shonky bikes and owners out there and don't believe everything the owners tell you ( yes the motor is fully rebuilt, trust me).
Good luck in your search.

Ashley
 
I prefer 72-74 and most of the bikes I build are 72 Combats since that's what people ask me to build. 73-74 eliminate some problems of 72. Probably the best right-shift is 74.

If you want a new-looking (not every nut and bolt restored) you will spend between $10k and $11k getting there if building stock. That's true of a bad basket case with useable engine and gearbox components right up to a $6000 daily rider. If you want to keep it you can do a little better if you don't worry about matching numbers, but if you want to sell it, matching numbers is often very important. Read through these two to see what you can expect.

A true restore can cost $20k.

https://www.gregmarsh.com/MC/Norton/Norton_1974.aspx
https://www.gregmarsh.com/MC/Norton/CustomerCombatBuild.aspx
 
I bought a MkIII because of the strengthened cases, electric start that could be upgraded and left foot shift, but all that doesn't matter so much anymore because there are so many after market products available to us these days. Cj
 
for a STOCK device , for all round riding , theres nothing wrong ! ? :eek: with a 750 , EXCEPT . . .

updates updated things , like plastic Iso Boots were later rubber , if your going for one thousand point originality . Which is stupid .

Earlyer 750s are more unique , and still ' 60' s ' , whereas the last series 750s are the most durable . If its going to get a hard time .
MOST PEOPLE would update to a Non fibreglass tank .

essentially you want a unbutchered un crash damadged one - FOR a RESTO . Complete as possable . the Early Fastbacks did a bit of a vetter ,

Looking for a Commando project - any gotchas?


Looking for a Commando project - any gotchas?


Elec Starts heavier , Pre Emissions Faster 850 . Of roadyier ones are offroadier . like a P 11 ! .

Looking for a Commando project - any gotchas?


Youve just missed out on THIS , which is a trifle irritateing if you want to RESTORE a NORTON ( & is uver fings )

Looking for a Commando project - any gotchas?


If you click on the picture ' completed listings ' youll see a ' REAL COMMANDO ' even if its not . !

1966 Norton N15CS DESERT SLED Trackmaster Frame RARE
======================================

Up for auction is a really nice 1966 Norton N15CS that has been placed in an extremely rare Desertmaster frame. From my understanding, and from people that I know in the Desert Sled community, it was a Trackmaster frame but different for desert racing. Very few were made and they are extremely RARE. Do your research. With that being said, the motorcycle is a really cool period desert race bike.
 
Senseually , any NORTON 750s gotta COMMANDO Engine . More or Less , Actually , ANY Norton Twin'd do NICELY . And a restoed Ex Race Bike'd be the cream of the crop ! .

Looking for a Commando project - any gotchas?


Though any noteable one , youd be very carefull not to restore the HISTORY out of it .
AND youd keep it in Race Preped spec . Bog Standards a bore . EVERYTHING should work properly , exactly , & reliably . No Matter WHAT the ' order ' is . Like Steam Trains . You dont want troubles .

Thats a P11 750 . But dont tell everybody , or theyll ALL want one . ! :(
 

once you can recite THIS , standing on your head , with youre eyes closed , youll be able to check out one o.k. , when you goin seeit . ;)
 
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All Commandos are fundamentally sound apart from the early '68 widowmaker framed version, which should have been caught by the recall. Combats are OK under 'normal' use. Crankcase mods are well established and effective for 'abnormal' use.
850s more long-legged than 750s, but harder on gearboxes. Again,.. mods are well established and effective.
For daily rider use I prefer the 750s, they're a tad lighter and aren't slower than 850s either. The Combat is my clear favourite - once the case mods are done.
Common things which will make a resto more expensive are missing clocks & 850 cylinder heads - good ones are scarce and more likely to have stripped exhaust threads than 750s. 750 heads don't seem to crack like some 850s.
Much better to find one with complete engine, gearbox etc.
Drum front brake is actually OK once set up right and looks cool. IMHO better than a standard disc, but a modded disc (even just a13mm M/Cyl) is definitely superior.
Missing tanks, panels, seats shouldn't be a deal-breaker as most (especially fibreglass tanks) get replaced with new - same with most chrome-work.

Spares availability is close to 100%, so some stuff missing shouldn't be a deterrent.
 
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IMHO, I would look for a complete running bike as your starting point.You then could upgrade it or not as you get more info as to what you want to end up with.A basket case,even if it was given to you,is usually going to cost a lot just to get it in running order.These bikes are a true joy to ride when assembled properly and you won’t be let down with the finished product.
Mike
 
You look young enough to prod the Combat into life without much thought. For that reason alone we would welcome you to the group. But interest in a Commando at any age would welcome you in as well. Having a 74 and riding regularly on the dual carriage to the lanes I can say they are able to handle it all. I will grudgingly accept that a Mk III would be a bit better as a rider as it has an electric leg which, if upgraded, really does make riding safer and easier. However the thought of extra weight is an abomination. And I agree with the previous comments of 'get a running bike' and start from there. Get it on the road and sorted mechanically and only then move on to the cosmetics.
 
' However the thought of extra weight is an abomination.'

To quote one of the first female ATA pilots to be cleared for flying four engined heavy bombers in WW2:

'They were designed to carry me...... Not vice versa!'

:)
 
I would assume everything needed attention on a used Commando regardless of whether or not it was all there. Lots of examples here of guys buying the deal of a lifetime for what looks like a finished bike only to find out it is going to cost a lot more to actually get it running and shifting right.

If you have money and time to burn, there are no gotchas in a project bike.
 
I’m blown away at all of these responses! So happy I found this forum. I’ll crack my knuckles and get to reading and replying soon. I truly appreciate all of this info — themes of “time and money” are consistent, and that’s no surprise.
 
There are NO bad ones. Some are just better. It was M/C of the year, 5 years running at the beginning of production.
At least that's what it says on one of the plaques I have.

As it's been said, buy the most complete, original Bike you can find.
There was an Ebay seller that was selling 'Titled frame with empty engine cases.'
The worst possible scenario for a newb.

The only real caveat I have is the earlier bikes have Fiberglass tanks.
Modern day Ethanol fuel plays havoc with them.

Good Luck!!
Check back in when you get it.
 

once you can recite THIS , standing on your head , with youre eyes closed , youll be able to check out one o.k. , when you goin seeit . ;)
haha some light reading! Downloaded. I'm actually on a flight in the morning so I'll scroll through it. Thanks for sharing Matt
 
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