Look Ma- no chain

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Holey Batman Jim, makes me swoon at all the spaces added. You know you can punch holes out of the belt too, just not near edges : )
 
hobot said:
Holey Batman Jim, makes me swoon at all the spaces added. You know you can punch holes out of the belt too, just not near edges : )

I know this is holy month, but there are limits no :?:

Jean
 
So I got impatient and wanted to go for a ride but the teeth were falling off the rear sprocket. So I went ahead to see if the belt would fit.
Peice of cake. Everthing actually fit the first time. Now if the rain would go away I could go try it out. Jim

Look Ma- no chain


Look Ma- no chain
 
So what do you do when the anodizing shop has an $85.00 minimum and a 3 week wait and your cheap and impatient like me.
You take a crash course in hard anodizing. I had done regular anodizing before with varied success but never tried the type 3 hard anodizing.

Here is 10% sulfuric acid at 34 degrees in an aluminum pot. Ready for the juice.

Look Ma- no chain


Here it is with 30 amps from my TIG welder applied

Look Ma- no chain


And 45 minutes later it comes out from a rinse.

Look Ma- no chain


It measures around .001 thicker meaning it has a .001 hard coating that seems very scratch resistant and matches the golden color of my stainless exhausts very nicely. That was really easy. Now to find out how well it holds up.

Look Ma- no chain
 
The surface formed is Al oxide which is what sapphire is - like in scratch proof watch glass and gems of course. The color comes from impurities in water bath
or container or parts not fully cleaned and of course added dyes or pigments of about any type as gets covered over to seal in Al pores.
 
Very nice, Jim. Nice to see that it can be done at home. I've had good experiences with hard anodize from commercial platers for lots of applications, and some not so good luck. Some years back I tried a replacement clutch basket and engine sprocket for a stock Commando triplex chain primary that were made in aluminum alloy and hard anodized. The chain wore through the hard anodizing quite rapidly, after which the sprockets on both became junk in rapid order. The other bad experience I had was with some Alloy-Tech aluminum push rods with hard anodized alloy ends. The ends for the tappets were fine, but the cup ends were rapidly worn away by the rocker arm ball. They were good for a few races, but needed regular replacement. I used the same Alloy-Tech pushrods with steel ends for years with no problems, until they went out of business. I make my own pushrods now, and I'm sticking with the steel ends.

Considering how well hard anodize pulleys work for the primary drives, I would think they should be great for your final drive.

Besides, it looks really trick!

Ken
 
Hi there, do you definitly advise anodizing for the belt drive 's front pulley and clutch drum, as i had some made from alloy and they are not anodized .....??
 
marinatlas said:
Hi there, do you definitly advise anodizing for the belt drive 's front pulley and clutch drum, as i had some made from alloy and they are not anodized .....??

They definitely need to be anodized or hard coated in some way. I made a belt drive setup for my racebike some years back with no hardcoat and they wore out in a short time. I made a replacement set and had them coated by an outfit that did industrial coatings. I think they called it some type of plasma coat. It lasted several years but was starting to show some breakthrough on the edges.
I think most drives use anodizing now and I have had good luck with them. Jim
 
Just back from a 120 mile test ride. Wow, less vibration, no noise, no chain snatch and no oil on the back wheel. I think I like it. Jim
 
comnoz said:
bwolfie said:
How much for a kit?

I will have to work on that. Jim

He still needs to price out the FI and cam gear drive but he's too busy hosting garden parties (or dyno testing, whatever) for the local Norton club. :mrgreen:




But seriously, these are so cool!
 
You need an Aussie distributor - to test your excellent engineering in our harsh conditions.


Me!
 
swooshdave said:
comnoz said:
bwolfie said:
How much for a kit?

I will have to work on that. Jim

He still needs to price out the FI and cam gear drive but he's too busy hosting garden parties (or dyno testing, whatever) for the local Norton club. :mrgreen:




But seriously, these are so cool!

Thanks,

Actually I have been selling the fuel injection kits on a build to order basis. Small quantities. $2595.00. But as of yet you probably need to pretty handy at tuning with a computer before I would recommend it unless you are close enough to tune it on my dyno.

The timing gears are still not up to my expectations and I may end up with a major change of design yet. Kind of depends on the starter system that I have been working on. I got something really neat in the works.
 
Just back from a 120 mile test ride. Wow, less vibration, no noise, no chain snatch and no oil on the back wheel. I think I like it. Jim

Now that's a sales pitch that gets my attention, less sense of drive train noise
and chain flap or 'snatch'. A few lbs removed is very appealing too. Another feather in your Norton head dress Jim. Belt dust is easier to wipe up than oil.
 
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