loctite 515 or 518 or....

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Onder

Onder

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For cases, is it 515 or 518 loctite? I used yamabond-type rtv last time and it was world war three to get the cases apart. Loctite mentions easy removal!
So which of the two is preferred or is another offering the way to go?
 
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Mike's stuff looks to me stateside only. I know he is here a lot but he would have to meet me in dark alley and trade the tube for the hard cold. Importing fees cost more than wot you are importing.
But a quick look for 518 and the same applies...all from abroad! Surely someone sells it here?
Edit:
Beg your pardon...my search on ebay somehow defaulted me out of the uk over to the USA ...a bother. Did a search in the .co.uk ebay and found domestic offerings.
 
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I use Loctite 574. I've used it on Porsche 911 engines for years. It's what the factory used, and works great on a Norton case. Available in the states, look for Porsche parts houses like Pelican.
 
The best in my opinon and easy to find. Permatex Motoseal #29132
loctite 515 or 518 or....
 
518 is my choice (in a widely varied industrial setting as well as motorcycles/automotive). Used it for years, GREAT results. 515 is a slight variation on the theme, and will perform well on the case joint as well.
 
milfordite said:
I use Loctite 574. I've used it on Porsche 911 engines for years. It's what the factory used, and works great on a Norton case. Available in the states, look for Porsche parts houses like Pelican.
Click to expand...

574 looks like it has better hot strength and gasoline resistance than 515 or 518.

How difficult is it to remove/clean off when hardened? Do you see any of its orange color in the case joint?

 
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Loctite 515, 518, and 574 are all anaerobic sealants and vary in properties such as cure time and viscosity. (all are acrylic based) According to the TDS's they vary in ability to bridge gaps. 574 is for the finest, tightest fit while 515 will cover looser fits. The Threebond, Yamabond and Permatex are oxidation and solvent evaporation cured. With those I would be cautious too spread the film evenly and sparingly as any that is squeezed out inside the engine will cure and could find its way into oil passages. The anaerobics will remain uncured and dissolve in the oil.
 
I've used both 515 and 518 to seal Commando cases that I had welded for either crack repair, reinforcement, or both. I used it instead of the other sealants because there was some slight warping from the welding, and I needed something that would fill slight gaps. I used it many times and never had a leak. It's also makes it easy to disassemble the cases. On normal cases with no warping issues I've used other sealants, specifically Yamabond and Threebond, with no problems, but they do tend to glue the cases together. My current go-to sealant for normal cases, as well as other metal-to-metal covers, etc., is Hylomar Blue. It is non-curing, self-repairing, and easy to clean off.

Ken
 
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