Location - rectifier, capacitor & warning assimilator

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Richard Tool

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can anyone tell me locations for the original Lucas rectifier and the two spring mounted cans - capacitor and warning light assimilator. I seem to recall the rectifier and one of the spring mounts locate on the web at the rear of the main frame backbone - the one with the smaller hole/grommet for wiring harness. Bike is 1972 750 Combat Roadster. I don’t no why I didn’t take photos before disassembly- my bad .
Thanks for any help - RT
 
Spring with capacitor on front side of the web, close to battery. Rectifier is also, on my 74. Spring with warning light assimilator mounts inside the ignition coil bracket - one of the coil bolts (left front I think) is longer than the others and the spring is secured with a washer and nut to that bolt.
 
Spring with capacitor on front side of the web, close to battery. Rectifier is also, on my 74. Spring with warning light assimilator mounts inside the ignition coil bracket - one of the coil bolts (left front I think) is longer than the others and the spring is secured with a washer and nut to that bolt.
Thanks mayor - VERY helpful
 
just a FYI side note - if or when using the 70-74, lucas service replacement, main wiring harness, the harness is designed so the rectifier and flasher are mounted on the aft side of the rear frame plate, and the capacitor on the forward side. not sure what's correct for the various years or marks, but the one size, fits all replacement harness has a natural flow and is best suited to that configuration. on my 74, Mk2 installation, the harness pigtail for the warning light assimilator was about an inch too short to mount in factory location. since I installed an electronic ignition, I had to custom fit that end of the harness. everything else fit nicely and was pretty much plug and play. ;)

Location - rectifier, capacitor & warning assimilator
 
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Thanks all for the help - Behind the frame plate may be problematic as the mounting bar for the Corbin seat encroaches that space - I think it best to wait until new harness arrives before installing the devices in question.
 
WLA on the Titanic was (and is) mounted to the rear of the left coil under the tank. Capacitor is in front of the rear frame bulkhead and the rectifier and flasher are behind it.
 
WLA on the Titanic was (and is) mounted to the rear of the left coil under the tank. Capacitor is in front of the rear frame bulkhead and the rectifier and flasher are behind it.
That's how my mkii HiRider came when got it two yrs ago.
 
WLA on the Titanic was (and is) mounted to the rear of the left coil under the tank. Capacitor is in front of the rear frame bulkhead and the rectifier and flasher are behind it.

My buddy's 72 is like that. In 74 they moved the flasher and rectifier to the front of the bulkhead.
 
My early 74 has rectifier and flasher behind the bulkhead.
 
just a FYI side note - if or when using the 70-74, lucas service replacement, main wiring harness, the harness is designed so the rectifier and flasher are mounted on the aft side of the rear frame plate, and the capacitor on the forward side. not sure what's correct for the various years or marks, but the one size, fits all replacement harness has a natural flow and is best suited to that configuration. on my 74, Mk2 installation, the harness pigtail for the warning light assimilator was about an inch too short to mount in factory location. since I installed an electronic ignition, I had to custom fit that end of the harness. everything else fit nicely and was pretty much plug and play. ;)

Location - rectifier, capacitor & warning assimilator
None of my Commandos ‘72 and up had cloth bound wiring harnesses.
 
Thanks again all for the help - not concerned about originality- after all the Stainless , drilled rotor , sleeved master cylinder, etc I have long left originality behind . Doing the cloth harness simply because it is nicer .
 
Thanks all for the help - Behind the frame plate may be problematic as the mounting bar for the Corbin seat encroaches that space - I think it best to wait until new harness arrives before installing the devices in question.
my 74 had a corbin seat when I pushed it home. seems the seat mounting bracket fits between the upper shock mount bolts. just checked - looks like the bracket will clear any electrical components on the rear bulkhead. I opted to go back to the original seat, and my bike had a podtronics unit, so my original rectifier was not used.

no to go off topic and a little FYI, but if you are installing a lucas harness with the bullet connectors, on thing I've been using for years on SINGLE POINT ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS is a electrical contact grease -- https://www.sanchem.com/electrical-contact-lubricant.html --

I use this in lieu of di-electric grease. a light coat on the lucas bullets made insertion into the rubber connector blocks a snap. second benefit, in needed, makes removal easy. stuff is fairly inexpensive and a small jar goes a long way... https://www.amazon.com/NO-OX-ID-Spe...00HDF9EXE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
 
The Titanic's '73 harness was wrapped in black electrician's tape, making repairs easy to hide.
as I said, most likely, all original factory harnesses were vinyl wrapped. I have a roll of black cloth electrical tape that also makes repairs easy to hide. I think the cloth and cloth electrical tape is used a lot in the german car industry.

my electrical nightmare -- when I pulled the gas tank on my 74, the previous owner unwrapped most of the harness exposing much of the individual wiring. things were cut and spliced (different color code wires), things disconnected, even the LH handle bar switch circuit switch assembly pulled back, rewired, and tucked up under the tank (open and exposed - an attempt to install a hydraulic clutch without the LH control switch assembly), color coding of crimp lugs and wire gauges mis-matched. he tied grounds together with crimp rings and ran a nut and bolt through the rings and left it hanging without connecting to a solid mechanical point. i usually don't fear automotive electrical work, but this bike scared the crap out of me. aside from the electronic ignition, not really sure what the previous owner was trying to accomplish, but my only option was to rip out the old and start with the new. I know the replacement harness is not factory correct, being cloth, but it is what it is. granted, it's not period correct, but personally, I think it looks pretty good. anyway, it's wired up now, everything works, I have ignition (spark). as soon as I rebuild and install the carbs, we may be ready to go - ;)
 
Rock & roll, Joe.

I'm an EE, been wiring stuff for 50 years, owned my Norton since new... and my wiring harness still has a few "Why'd I do that?" touches to it.

Love the cloth tape, way better than vinyl. This stuff rocks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EH6IZ6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For anybody using vinyl electrical tape, the only one worth while is genuine 3M brand.

your (amazon) link for the cloth tape is the exact stuff I use. i agree, for vinyl, 3M is the only way to go.
 
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