landsdown installation instructions

zefer

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Messages
201
Country flag
I have a 72 commando that came to me with the Madass landsdown damper kits.I need to disassemble the forks for service and have no install documents to guide me ( where can i find a printable installation guide for refernce ).I also need to know what weight fork oil is suggested.I was hoping to get a "starting" point so far as initial adjustment goes.I would welcome some opinions on matching a set of rear shocks to the landsdown kit.I have new set avon's and run my pressures at 30 and 28.I weigh 110 lb if that matters
 
Joined
May 25, 2019
Messages
31
Country flag
I have a 72 commando that came to me with the Madass landsdown damper kits.I need to disassemble the forks for service and have no install documents to guide me ( where can i find a printable installation guide for refernce ).I also need to know what weight fork oil is suggested.I was hoping to get a "starting" point so far as initial adjustment goes.I would welcome some opinions on matching a set of rear shocks to the landsdown kit.I have new set avon's and run my pressures at 30 and 28.I weigh 110 lb if that matters
Is this any help?
 
Joined
Apr 20, 2011
Messages
5,630
Country flag
Great instructions, but tut,tut, tut, hitting the top fork nut with a metal ball pein hammer!
Where did he learn to do that? - Fred Dibnah's school of hard knocks?
 

L.A.B.

Moderator
VIP MEMBER
Joined
Nov 20, 2004
Messages
16,549
Country flag
Great instructions, but tut,tut, tut, hitting the top fork nut with a metal ball pein hammer!
Where did he learn to do that? - Fred Dibnah's school of hard knocks?

The photo caption reads: "...Using a brass hammer or a block of wood and hammer, rap the nut hard to break the fork tube free of the upper steering yoke."
 
Joined
Apr 20, 2011
Messages
5,630
Country flag
The photo caption reads: "...Using a brass hammer or a block of wood and hammer, rap the nut hard to break the fork tube free of the upper steering yoke."
Yea, great. But when you just take a quick glance, a picture tells a thousand words . . . .
 

Oildrip

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Nov 3, 2019
Messages
8
Country flag
Hi Zefer,

I am just about to install the new dampers...here’s the instructions that came from Don (Madass):

When fitting the dampers best method is have your forks fitted to the bike minus the internals.
Fit the new damper assembly as supplied thru the big top washer and gauge holder then into the top of the forks.
Fit the countersunk screw and alloy washer underneath to secure the damper tube and tighten.
Compress the forks a couple of inches so the spring is exposed.
Slowly pour the fork oil against the spring.
Extend forks and fit and tighten the big alloy fork nut (bolt)
DONT undo the above fork nut as it will screw up the preset needle valve adjustment.

some basic fitting info
The only tools you need to fit the dampers after you have removed the old internals is a 5mm allen key and a spanner for the top alloy fork nut (bolt) I find that a 12" adjustable wrench is best for this.
DO NOT remove or loosen the top alloy fork nut (bolt) this is very important
DO NOT adjust the brass adjuster with allen key supplied until after the dampers are fitted and ready to do testing to get your desired settings.
Fit new assemblies as supplied
Fit lower countersunk retaining screws and alloy washers and tighten with 5mm Allen key.
Compress the forks until a few inches of spring is showing.
Slowly pour against the spring 150ml of 10w fork oil.
Extend forks and fit and tighten top alloy fork nut (bolt).
Fit wheel etc.
Pump the forks a dozen times or so to prime the dampers
Then make small adjustments to one side only until you have some dampening or rebound, then do other side
Road test and make small adjustments to suit
Whatever you do DO NOT loosen or remove the top alloy fork nut (bolt) as this will upset the factory settings.
 

zefer

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Messages
201
Country flag
Hi Zefer,

I am just about to install the new dampers...here’s the instructions that came from Don (Madass):

When fitting the dampers best method is have your forks fitted to the bike minus the internals.
Fit the new damper assembly as supplied thru the big top washer and gauge holder then into the top of the forks.
Fit the countersunk screw and alloy washer underneath to secure the damper tube and tighten.
Compress the forks a couple of inches so the spring is exposed.
Slowly pour the fork oil against the spring.
Extend forks and fit and tighten the big alloy fork nut (bolt)
DONT undo the above fork nut as it will screw up the preset needle valve adjustment.

some basic fitting info
The only tools you need to fit the dampers after you have removed the old internals is a 5mm allen key and a spanner for the top alloy fork nut (bolt) I find that a 12" adjustable wrench is best for this.
DO NOT remove or loosen the top alloy fork nut (bolt) this is very important
DO NOT adjust the brass adjuster with allen key supplied until after the dampers are fitted and ready to do testing to get your desired settings.
Fit new assemblies as supplied
Fit lower countersunk retaining screws and alloy washers and tighten with 5mm Allen key.
Compress the forks until a few inches of spring is showing.
Slowly pour against the spring 150ml of 10w fork oil.
Extend forks and fit and tighten top alloy fork nut (bolt).
Fit wheel etc.
Pump the forks a dozen times or so to prime the dampers
Then make small adjustments to one side only until you have some dampening or rebound, then do other side
Road test and make small adjustments to suit
Whatever you do DO NOT loosen or remove the top alloy fork nut (bolt) as this will upset the factory setting
 

zefer

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Messages
201
Country flag
Thank you guy's....yes your written instructions will be VERY helpful and thank you for taking the time to post for me.I will not be using hammers and wood as I have the proper socket ( dedicated socket just for the norton top nuts )....soooo what wieght fork oil for a "shrinking old guy" topping the scales at a whopping 110 Lbs ?
 

Onder

VIP MEMBER
Joined
May 11, 2010
Messages
2,857
Country flag
At last! Somebody smaller than I am!
Try 10w, that is what I use in mine.
 

lazyeye6

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Feb 28, 2014
Messages
925
Country flag
MY instruction sheets from Don RECOMMENDED removing the fork tubes though it is POSSIBLE to install the dampers with the tubes
in place. I don't recommend the latter. Except for the ball peen hammer photo, the Classic Motorcycles article is excellent. Since you
don't state what "service" you intend to perform, I expect you intend to remove the whole damper assembly from the slider?
In that case you do need a replacement fiber washer at the bottom to insure a good seal. You will need a new fork seal and paper
washer on reassembly. There is too much work involved to take the chance of reusing the old seal. They are cheap. Take care that you
do not install the new seal upside down! This will result in a very leaky fork and the oil will dribble down into your brake cylinder and ruin
the brake pads. Ask me how I know this. Oh! The dedicated socket you have will not free the fork tube taper from the triple tree. You WILL
need a big hammer and a block of wood.
 

cyclegeezer

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Jul 15, 2010
Messages
300
Country flag
Great instructions, but tut,tut, tut, hitting the top fork nut with a metal ball pein hammer!
Where did he learn to do that? - Fred Dibnah's school of hard knocks?
It was a brass hammer, and we weren't going to reuse the nuts, plus they were already buggered from years of DPO abuse. All of that added up to a bit of carelessness.
 

zefer

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Messages
201
Country flag
It was a brass hammer, and we weren't going to reuse the nuts, plus they were already buggered from years of DPO abuse. All of that added up to a bit of carelessness.
By service I mean.I am getting ready to install the JS Motorsports composite bushing and sleeve kit.I also wanted to know if ya'll think there would be any issues if fitting Jim's kit.....Or the NYC norton kit ? I have had the forks apart on a few commandos and have the proper tools and skills set to be successful..however if anyone has any tips or tid bits of knowledge.....I am shooting for ( I am being realistic with expectations with 40 year old technology ) and the goal is to achevie no noise topping or bottoming out,as little friction as technology allows.I am also going to upgrade the rear shocks to the Ikon's
 
Joined
Oct 28, 2009
Messages
779
Country flag
The "dedicated socket just for the norton top nuts" normally won't free the external taper at the top of the stanchions from the internal taper in the top yoke. This is where the big hammer and a chuck of wood comes in. Personally I use a big hammer and a chuck of aluminum, just cause it transfer more force.
 
Joined
Mar 30, 2012
Messages
625
Country flag
The "dedicated socket just for the norton top nuts" normally won't free the external taper at the top of the stanchions from the internal taper in the top yoke. This is where the big hammer and a chuck of wood comes in. Personally I use a big hammer and a chuck of aluminum, just cause it transfer more force.
I thought everybody had a 'knock around" fork tube nut!
Norton-topnut.jpg
 

gortnipper

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Nov 11, 2013
Messages
4,061
Country flag
By service I mean.I am getting ready to install the JS Motorsports composite bushing and sleeve kit.I also wanted to know if ya'll think there would be any issues if fitting Jim's kit.....Or the NYC norton kit ? I have had the forks apart on a few commandos and have the proper tools and skills set to be successful..however if anyone has any tips or tid bits of knowledge.....I am shooting for ( I am being realistic with expectations with 40 year old technology ) and the goal is to achevie no noise topping or bottoming out,as little friction as technology allows.I am also going to upgrade the rear shocks to the Ikon's
I have JSs Turcite bushings with my JRB build Lansdowne dampers and they work great.

I did find that on one of the top bushes, that there was a bit of stiction due to the diameter of the bush despite the expansion slot. I simply used some wet/dry to gently remove some of the Turcite on the outside of the bush and that worked great.
 

madass140

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Nov 6, 2011
Messages
2,093
Country flag
hitting with a hammer was never in my instructions. sorry I just noticed this inquiry, thanks for those
who put up my fitting tips
Don
 

RoadScholar

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
1,741
Country flag
Why not just loosen the fork caps, say about 4 or 5 threads, then loosen or remove the yoke clamp nut under the bottom yoke, then using a wooden dowel whack the bottom yoke, alternating right to the left side until the stanchion tapers release?

Best.
 

gortnipper

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Nov 11, 2013
Messages
4,061
Country flag
Why not just loosen the fork caps, say about 4 or 5 threads, then loosen or remove the yoke clamp nut under the bottom yoke, then using a wooden dowel whack the bottom yoke, alternating right to the left side until the stanchion tapers release?

Best.

I think it depends on when the last time they were out... 30-50 years? No way.

1619151201768.png

1619151235615.png
 
Joined
Apr 20, 2011
Messages
5,630
Country flag
Why not just loosen the fork caps, say about 4 or 5 threads, then loosen or remove the yoke clamp nut under the bottom yoke, then using a wooden dowel whack the bottom yoke, alternating right to the left side until the stanchion tapers release?

Best.
I'm with gortnipper on that one, this way you hit in line with the taper, where alternating/rocking the hammer blows from side to side as suggested by Roadscholer will inevitably do some damage.
 
Top