Just how bad sliders can be?

kommando · Feb 15, 2015

Teflon is soft, used to use it to make bearings where it was impregnated into a porous sintered bronze so its going to wear as a sleeve or as a paint and the paint is much easier to apply. So as long as you use AN stanchions it will last as long as a sleeve.

Hobot · Feb 15, 2015

I don't think ya can extrapolate rotation rubbing with the scratching scrapping reversals of binding springs in poorly finished stancion insides but can't hurt to try and see how it feels and lasts.

edgefinder · Feb 15, 2015

A long mandrel in a sunnen hone will fix the rough finish the springs slide against.

daveh · Feb 16, 2015

John - one more thing - will your jig be able to accommodate sliders with cast brackets on which the brake calipers mount, e.g. Seeley sliders?

john robert bould · Feb 16, 2015

The spring side pressure on full compression is firm , its the nature of long heavy gauge wire .springs when 3.5 x there diameter ,buckling becomes an issue ...10% ptfe added to the oil will help slow down the process . sleeve ? tricky to make.

Onder said:
Have my forks apart (RE but they have a Norton front end) and there is obvious wear on the outside of the springs.
Your mention of a sleeve occurred to me. As the spring doesnt compress without "snaking" for want of a better word
would the sleeve also help with this?

Bernhard · Feb 16, 2015

http://www.engineeringsupplies.co.uk/17 ... -1836.html

Bernhard · Feb 18, 2015

Re; "So change that oil yearly or sooner, remember "that" grinding fluid is also grinding away damper internals ,bushs and seals ..as well that micro chrome plating! It's not only the external dust that wears the chrome..but the beast that is out of sight :!:"

Your comments and findings do not surprise me the least, I have had a least 2 jap bikes which I accrued a high mileage on and on both of them the forks were worn out on the bottom sliders at 95K.
These did not have ANY fork brushes in them whatsoever; the chrome santions run directly into the softer alloy. Very few people appear to change the fork oil as I have always found on any bike I purchased second hand that the old oil smelled like a stunk was in there, even fewer people clean out the interior of the bottom fork slider.

Bernhard · Feb 18, 2015

john robert bould said:
Hi Peter,

Spot on with the bottom location/pin , the lathe as per most as a morse 3 in the spindle. a cut down drill is machined to 3/4 x 40 long ,tough material! , the slider is located onto this ensuring a central location .

The slider as to be clocked true at the seal end, then the bore is machined untill the wear is just left in . This needs to be done with a Long bar..the 25mmx300mm bar is not sturdy enough, so i am making a 35mm bar from hard steel, If the boring is not done the David Brown reamer will float into the wear zone. Nasty!!
The David Brown will adjust ,and follow a bore..excellent piece of kit. Quote.

If using a long boring bar, may I suggest that the boring bar will also need a steady to make it more rigid in front of the workpeice :?: :idea:
Otherwise there will still be a certain amount of whip.

john robert bould · Feb 18, 2015

hi dave.
the jig as a slot to allow the bracket to "poke" through.

daveh said:
John - one more thing - will your jig be able to accommodate sliders with cast brackets on which the brake calipers mount, e.g. Seeley sliders?

daveh · Feb 18, 2015

john robert bould said:
hi dave.
the jig as a slot to allow the bracket to "poke" through

Good to know, John, thanks!

Just how bad sliders can be?

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