It's alive!!!!!

Mark F said:

Sure does give you a grin doesn't it Dave.
Hey Nortriubuell(thats a mouthfull!) the bike came from Ohio. Walbridge to be precise. Bought one year ago tomorrow on Ebay.

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Wow, small world, Walbridge is only about 55 miles away from where I live in Norwalk. I think I remember seeing yours on ebay last year then. The guy had some bikes and alot of Norton stuff he was cleaning out. I bid on alot of it, but didn't win any, oh well. Thanks for posting the pics, I really like your bike Cheers ...

"Cold , you push a few cylinders through so the chambers are primed ( the jappers cant figure this bit ) Then one leap . pushing through clears / wipes the oil trough too , so cold and stiff , 4 compressions no harm."

I was pushing mine through this morning to get it primed a bit and it started. Scared me half to death.

Beautiful bike, and it sounds good too. Nicely done.

nortriubuell said:

Mark F said:

Sure does give you a grin doesn't it Dave.
Hey Nortriubuell(thats a mouthfull!) the bike came from Ohio. Walbridge to be precise. Bought one year ago tomorrow on Ebay.

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Wow, small world, Walbridge is only about 55 miles away from where I live in Norwalk. I think I remember seeing yours on ebay last year then. The guy had some bikes and alot of Norton stuff he was cleaning out. I bid on alot of it, but didn't win any, oh well. Thanks for posting the pics, I really like your bike Cheers ...

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Small world indeed. He was selling some other Norton stuff at the same time. Nice guy. Helped out a lot to get the bike shipped. She's a long way from home now.
Bigbird it sounds even better now with the carb balance pipe connected. :roll:

Lovely new birthing and color combo.
Its not good practice to center stand start as begins to spread the stand legs to eventually list to one side and then snap off while riding. I'm refining my own kicking routine but do have long enough legs to straddle while on tires. I've had to kick and wear my self and bike out like everyone else of course but finding its not the speed of kick down as much as just solid stiff leg full body weight step down over TDC. Kick lever don't like the hard hi speed kick off either. My all factory Combat likes lot of tickle juice then either no throttle or a cracked throttle and usually one kick fires, If not started on 2nd kick then I go WOT for one more, if not joy I tickle some more w/o throttle then a cracke throttle then WOT. That's the most effective trail and error in traffic routine or cold home starts I've found.

Its worthwhile diddling the timing up/dn by N'th degree's till the sweetest starting.

Cold thick oil definitely hinders first kick offs. No one can claim to be a real Nortoneer till stalled in traffic. Its very good practice like you did to start right off at couple 1000 rpm to get cam oil wedge protection soon as possible.
A bit like women never quite know the phase of moon and weather to adjust starting protocol but gradually learn it over time.

Its a joy to have strangers gathered around on cold day with cold bike and it starts up first try, ahhh...

Hey Mark,

Congrats, yes I love that first start up, even after a engine rebuild, it is a special moment when everything clicks. Put TotalSeal ring pack in mine, and it makes a difference to the starting drill. You can hang 95 kg on the kicker, static and nothing happens until you jump hard. But she draws the fuel through and you can just about guarantee a first kick start stone cold. Not sure about your clutch, but I normaly need to break mine, by kicking through carefully, ign off and clutch lever in, untill she free's off. But be careful not to be too entusiastic, as when it free's off it lets go real quick.

Nice looking bike, shame we are 4000 km apart but now you can have some real fun. I would suggest you go the re-torquing rigmarol, especially if you have a composite head gasket. I even have a special copper baseplate to get the compression ratio dialed in and even the base nuts gave a little after the first heat cycle. Exhaust nuts to, do them every ride for the first few rides. If it is a new bore, run non friction modified oil for 100 miles then turf it, together with the filter. check you crank drain, with magnet in it. Try not to run the engine in Perth heat, middle of the day, for the first couple of short runs. Run the engine for short runs, but load her up in short bursts and let her overun to oil bores. Don't let her idle for extended periods.

Hope this helps and enjoy mate.

Richard

Way to go!

Add another old Norton to the line of the living.

Liked the way there was no smoke on first startup. Sounds great.

Thanks guys. Retorqued the head yesterday after the initial start up. Also checked exhaust nuts, oil levels etc.
Then took it out on the street for a bit of a test run before another retorque probably tomorrow.
Had to have today off. Starting to get a few complaints about too much time spent working on the bike. :lol: Now where have I heard that before? :roll:
Anyway, one thing I noticed about the bike is that the clutch barely disengages. Even with it freed first it wanted to stall putting it in gear. It's fully engaged when the lever is only just released. Any ideas anyone?
I also have a short in the electrical system. When I put the key on to the second click, when the lights should come on, it is blowing fuses. It has only started doing it since I put the battery in. Before that it was o.k. Also when the lights are on the tail light is not working. Might be related so will have a look at the connections.
Other than that she runs well. Real smooth.

Wifeygirlfriendthingyattention.First n'foremost.Had 8 guys over tonight for pulling Snorter up the stairs .They drank 30 beers and 6 bottles of my wine. Alma hoisted Crazy foot pumpin' high on lift to train all good. 4 days to mexico. Primary stripped. Beer bottles everywhere.Blues bar.Forgotten celphone.

You must have had a good time there Torontonian coz I can only understand about half of that. :lol:

Mark,
Make sure you have gone through the clutch adjustments 'by the book'. Outside of that, you may need to shim the clutch pack out so you get more dis-engagement. The clutch pack should barely touch the large circlip ring when you have the clutch removal tool engaged on the clutch pack, like you're going to remove it. If there's too much space there, the rod, adjuster arm, cable and lever all have to take up that slop before anything starts happening.

The short, you'll have to dig out an ohm meter and see where the short is.

Dave
69S

Thanks Dave. Clutch adjustment is all by the book. I went through it again today and all was as it should be, so may need shimming. I will have to look further into it. Going on a ride tomorrow with the Classic club. Will have to take the old A65 but there should be a few Norton brains there to pick.
The electrical fault has disappeared for the time being. :evil: Unless I can see a problem I generally don't deal with electrical faults very well. I've got a meter, but about all I use it for is checking battery voltage. :roll: Hey, there's a good idea for a thread. 'How to use a multimeter for novices.' In simple English. Any takers? :wink:

Mark, the other thing you might try is not loosening the clutch rod adjuster so much. I find I only have to loosen mine less than 1/4 turn from tight or things don't work right. I know my clutch pack can use some shimming. Don't know where you get it in OZ, but Old Britts sells you a complete kit and you return the parts you don't need for credit.

Dave
69S

Dave I had a bit of a fiddle around with slightly different adjustments but didn't seem to make a lot of difference.
I might try going slightly tighter on the cable because where the cable enters the gearbox is not a very straight path and part of the tension is probably lost there.

Mark F said:

Dave I had a bit of a fiddle around with slightly different adjustments but didn't seem to make a lot of difference.
I might try going slightly tighter on the cable because where the cable enters the gearbox is not a very straight path and part of the tension is probably lost there.

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Make sure the locking ring (#35) is all the way home and that the clutch release body and arm are lined up with the cable entry hole upon tightening.
http://www.oldbritts.com/1972_g7.html

I made this out of a pipe coupling. It functioned.

Mark F said:

Dave I had a bit of a fiddle around with slightly different adjustments but didn't seem to make a lot of difference.
I might try going slightly tighter on the cable because where the cable enters the gearbox is not a very straight path and part of the tension is probably lost there.

Click to expand...

Mark
A sign the clutch pack needs shimming is if the clutch lever takes a strong pull to work.
Mine was hard and after I put one of Old Britts shim plates in the pack I now have a two finger pull and no slip of clutch under full throttle up a hill.

Having to break loose clutch on start up may also mean they are contaminated with oil and you need to remove clutch pack and soak with petrol to clean.
Be very careful to only put amount of oil in primary case per manual, Overfilling will contaminate clutch which is a dry clutch.

Try very hard to get clutch cable to enter gearbox as straight as possible. I had a new cable fail where it enters the box after less than 1000 miles.
I've since routed mine better and been 5,000 miles no problem.

Bike looks great.

Bob

Pvisseriii everything is tight and lined up.
rx I am thinking I will need to shim the clutch pack. It is not particularly hard to pull but I am just not getting enough plate separation probably because there is too much slack between the clutch pack and the back of the spring. I looked at Old Brits site to try and find their shim plates but could not find them. Do you have a part # please. How much clearance should there be between the plates and the spring?
There's no slipping going on and all the plates are clean as it has just been assembled.

Mark F said:

I looked at Old Brits site to try and find their shim plates but could not find them.

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http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_clutch_info.html

http://atlanticgreen.com/clutchpak.htm

Thanks LAB. I read Fred Eaton's article and he states the following -
The .065" thick plain plate put the stack at just the correct position.
But, just what is the correct position?

I think it's the least amount of clearance possible without starting to engage the diaphragm.

Dave
69S