I'll be stripping & rebuilding my 850 MkII next spring. I'll be changing all Isolastics (probably fitting MkIII adjustables and a better head steady). On Ebay, there is the above tool on sale for £50. I'm wondering if it is worth getting one? Or is this for the kind of job it's only worth buying the special tool for if you're planning to do several bikes? Any advice or thoughts will be appreciated. (the Ebay listing gives 10402 as an alternative number)
Isolastic assembly tool 06-3971
- Thread starter Tigernut
- Start date
Richard Tool
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2019
- Messages
- 1,696
I didn’t need anything special for my new vernier isos.
Featherbed swing arm silent block bushes were another matter though …
Dave Taylor type headsteady made a tremendous improvement.
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2009
- Messages
- 1,340
In this video, there was no need for the tool:
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2014
- Messages
- 2,010
The tool is not necessary. Clean out the tube thoroughly and use grease or oil. Silicone grease does not damage the rubber. I use a screwdriver to get it started then push it through with my hand until the final rubber doughnut. More work with the screwdriver and you've got it.
NORTSTER1974
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2015
- Messages
- 301
Grease them up + the tube. Push them in by hand. Just like seatttle#gs says. Maybe a little flat blade screwdriver assistance.
I used a flap wheel to sand the ID of the tube, liberally applied "P-80 temporary rubber lubricant" to the ID of the tube and started the isolastic in the tube (a hose clamp may work to squeeze down the OD). Then I put a piece of all thread through the center of the Isolastic, placed a large socket on one side, a large washer on the other and used nuts to press the isolastic assembly into place.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 20,467
Completely unnecessary in my opinion. Do as others have said and save the £50.
I assembled mine using red rubber grease* but you can use the silicone grease. Don't use ordinary grease.
*One of those shoe polish size tins they sell on ebay is more than you will ever need.
Britstuff
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2021
- Messages
- 167
In addition to all the excellent advice above.... consider spending that 50 quid on an engine hoist rental or similar. Front isolastics are pretty straight forward to change, rears are a little bit more involved. Engine hoist made the job much easier, (please see picture attached).
Attachments
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2004
- Messages
- 2,461
For those here Stateside, this works well.
Also, handy to have on hand.
Also, handy to have on hand.
cliffa
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- May 26, 2013
- Messages
- 4,147
As @kommando said, get the Andover Norton rubbers. They made a lot of effort to get the correct Shore (softness) rating. Other suppliers are reported to be too hard, causing vibration where there should be none.
What not use part of your saving on a VIP membership?, then you can add pictures of your rebuild (just sayin)
Good idea! At $39 for a year (I guess around £28), I've still got around £22 to spend!As @kommando said, get the Andover Norton rubbers. They made a lot of effort to get the correct Shore (softness) rating. Other suppliers are reported to be too hard, causing vibration where there should be none.
What not use part of your saving on a VIP membership?, then you can add pictures of your rebuild (just sayin)
I'm planning to have my new shed built by the time I get round to working on the Norton - I'm building a ceiling hoist into it, so this should do the trick. I'll very likely be back on here asking for advice once I get started. I've built lots of Triumphs, a few Guzzis and a B50 in the past 20 years but I haven;t owned a Norton since about 1982 - and I didn't need to do anything much to it, so this is all new to me.
Britstuff
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2021
- Messages
- 167
Hoist from the shed roof should work great! The idea is to loosen and use the front isolastics as a fulcrum, in order to raise the rear of the frame of off the engine, gearbox and rear suspension cradle. Thus giving access to the rear isolastics. Engine hoist is definitely way overkill in terms of lift capacity.
I am so glad I upgraded to the Vernier type, (from Andover Norton). Once I finally worked out how to adjust them correctly, (with much help from this forum) and fitted a MK3 type headsteady spring, vibes are now pretty minimal and restircted to approx 2500-3000 rpm.
I'm more of an old English car guy, (MG's, Triumphs and the like). So if I can do it, someone with your experience should have no problem!
