Idle concerns

Everyone is saying about throttle cables etc, what about the choke cables if they are being used, once warmed up and higher idle, could be a choke problem, so many have problems with the chokes down instead of up when running, one of the reasons I got rid of my chokes to many people dropping the chokes because of the position of the choke lever thinking its in the wrong position, only a thought.
Sounds like a cable problem somewhere and check the carb tops to make sure the cables aren't on a tight angle when the tank is in position as that can cause the carbs to idle high as well.

Ashley
 
Chokes and flange torque.

The chokes add stiction to the air valves, have to be watched and aren't really needed. I was taught that The flange fasteners got equal torque until the carbs just lost their by-hand movement. I just do it that way, but do not know if the Premiers tolerate better than the older Concentrics.

Air leaks can be bad actors; especially true if the mating surfaces were assembled without being cleaned. I make a habit of flat plating all surfaces and checking the surfaces for flat.

Best.
 
htown16 said:
It got new cables. I don't think that is the problem. The throttle snaps back with a clunk. I would think if it was cables it would be more random.
This follows a distinct pattern every single ride. A little warmed up idles okay, more warmed up idles fast, good and warmed up back to normal.
Click to expand...
This is confusing, the symptoms you have are classic of a bike being tuned when it's not fully warmed up IE 10 miles before turning
But if yours is running well when "good and warmed up" it's very odd
Please keep us posted
 
It's unlikely that this will be figured out by guessing or mentally eliminating things. IMHO, it's past time to actually eliminate things. Assuming that the bike runs well at all speeds except for the idle issue, two of them are relatively easy:

Timing: Check the timing in the three situations by strobing. If consistent, electrical issues are mostly eliminated. If not, then this must be fixed before worrying about carbs. BTW, note the advance at both idle and 3000 rpm (or whatever Pazon specifies).

Slides:
1) Verify that when cold, the slides physically are synced at WOT by looking into the carbs. Then verify that they begin lifting at exactly the same time from closed throttle. In other words, be sure that the carbs are 100% physically synced - this CANNOT be done with vacuum gauges. A Norton with no other problems and good carbs will run very well done this way. If it doesn't you have a carb related problem.
2) Run without the air cleaner in a clean area. Check the height of the slides at idle in all three situations - be sure to check both carbs. If they are consistent, you can eliminate the cables, and warping holding the slides up.

If those pass, then more esoteric problems can be chased such as intake or exhaust air leaks.
 
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