I am building my own wiring harness

Craig

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Yes my 8 yr old grand son taught me how to use FE’s method …. it is a pain in arse but better than waiting for a timed out notice , works for me too
 
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I was going to use a nail board, but I don’t want an exact copy of the lengths of wire. I’m building in some flexibility with my bare bike alongside for confirmation. Although when I say bare, I mean no fuel tank and seat, it still has the other full harness on it. My replacement has a lot less wires, no condensers, ballast, zener. Extra power feeds, extra Earths. Where possible I’m removing bullet connectors and replacing with 2,3 & 4 wire Japanese style connectors.
 
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Re; Where possible I’m removing bullet connectors and replacing with 2,3 & 4 wire Japanese style connectors.
Those jap muti pin connectors also give problems, namely they can become corroded on the connectors.......don't ask me how I know. . . .
 

batrider

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What are those connectors? If they are the "insulation displacement" type (each wire jammed into knife-edged V) then they are not ideal for automotive use. (They suck)
There are some nice waterproof connectors around.
 

HRD

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Each half of the connector uses either a male or a female that interlock when the 2 halves are joined.

All of which reminds me I haven’t done much to it recently while busy doing other things.

I have identified my source of not being able to access the forum quickly. It’s something to do with my Virgin Media at home, as soon as I hotspot the iPad to my phone which uses “3” I get instant access, having unlimited data on the phone means no concerns about useage so I just need to remember to pair them up.
 

HRD

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Each half of the connector uses either a male or a female that interlock when the 2 halves are joined.

All of which reminds me I haven’t done much to it recently while busy doing other things.

I have identified my source of not being able to access the forum quickly. It’s something to do with my Virgin Media at home, as soon as I hotspot the iPad to my phone which uses “3” I get instant access, having unlimited data on the phone means no concerns about useage so I just need to remember to pair them up.
From that answer I was not clear in my question. I will try again ,how do you provide multiple commoned connections of say one wire connecting to two or more wires/conections ?
 

texasSlick

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From that answer I was not clear in my question. I will try again ,how do you provide multiple commoned connections of say one wire connecting to two or more wires/conections ?

My experience with similar push in contacts in mating connectors: one must crimp or solder two wires on one pin. One into two is about all one can hope for.
Before anyone jumps on me regarding the failure of soldered connections .... solder fails if vibration causes relative movement between the soldered components. A pin with a wire attached by solder, secure in a housing, will vibrate as a common mass, thus there will be no relative movement to cause failure.

My original Lucas bullets are all soldered. They do not fail since male bullet and female sleeve, plus adjacent wire all vibrate together, thus no relative movement.

Slick
 
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From that answer I was not clear in my question. I will try again ,how do you provide multiple commoned connections of say one wire connecting to two or more wires/conections ?
OK, understood.

There are a couple of terminals that Joe Lucas crams 3 or 4 wires into a quad bullet connector. To me they’re not the best of options. Where, for example, I needed 4 white power leads to go into a quad up under the fuel tank, I simply took 4 wires direct from the main switch using 2 doubled large lucars. Similarly with the red earth leads, rather than junctions here and there I took 4 cables direct from the battery on a pair of doubled large ring terminals.

No pairs of wires need to be crammed into one small pin as I’m simplifying the routes of the wires.
 
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I meant to mention, I had my Shorai picked up and back for investigation. It’s fooked. 2 dead cells, a replacement and a ‘Shorai charger turned up next day. This time it had 12v inside it, and a full charge next day showed 13.5v. Sorted. Apparently they’re not permitted to send them out fully charged, also I see the box has a warning notice advising not for shipping via passenger aircraft, only via cargo craft which is why Matt couldn’t send me one.

Hooked up to my new CNW starter motor embarrasses the engine to fire up - I’m going to call it my startle motor, it really whizzes the lump around.

If it wasn’t so much fun out riding I’d spend a bit more time sorting out the new harness, that may take a back seat for a while.
 
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You can save a lot of room by stripping out all the red wires...it's something like 19 red grounding wires. You can drastically reduce this by making your own grounding system. Also, there are way too many brown - blue wires. All the mish-mash of alternator wires can go, too if you are using an electronic reg/reg. And anything black-white and black-yellow straight into the trash.
I use the thinwall brown - blue and thinwall red...a small diameter carries an impressive number of amps. All other wire is stock guage carrying 8.75 amps. With some thought you can eliminate at least 50% of the wires.
 
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More info on thinwall wire from the AES AUTOMOTIVE ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES website U.K. .....Here in the USA BRITISH WIRING carries the same wire.

standard pvc wire = 8.75 amp.......cable o.d. = 2.6mm
thinwall wire = 25.0 amp.......cable o.d. = 2.7mm Yes that's 25 AMPS in a wire almost the same o.d. as the standard pvc wire!

almost the same size and a lot more amps. Great for main power from the battery and the main grounding line. A lot more capacity than will ever be required and fits all the same terminals as the lesser wires. For all other wire I use the standard pvc.
 
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