- Joined
- Feb 24, 2014
- Messages
- 1,761
We've been reluctant to share this and again - TRIAL USE ONLY!!!
Since February 2018 my dad was sick of the hunting idle. He was determined to solve it. And he did. But here's the back story:
Seems like the newer ECU's have more power to better control the IDLE AIR MOTOR but not everyone wants to spend money on a new ECU. And on top of that, there are still a few bikes with the new ECU's that have that annoying hunting idle and high idle situation. And there are some IDLE AIR MOTORS that are faulty. And there are VALVE BODIES that are adjusted incorrect or poorly made with the butterfly flaps not tuned. ????? Meaning one flap when closed has a .003" larger gap then it's neighbor. All around sucks! and makes for an unhappy owner. If a custom "hand made" builder were to assemble this bike, every detail would be looked over and tuned. So that's what we are doing.
So even after you tune the flaps, clean the IAM, change all the sensors, re-map the bike. With the pre-2016 bikes there still seems to be this issue. So my dad warmed up his bike to full running temp. put a ball bearing in the hose between the IAM and the air box. Then, cranked up the idle screw so it actually does control the idle. BAM!!!! Perfection. Like a new bike.
I did this to mine about 3 weeks ago. BAM!!! a new bike. Why did I wait so long to try this??? The idle will always drop smoothly to where you told it to and NEVER EVER CLIMBS or hunts!!!! Say you're doing 120km/h at 4,800 rpm and pull in the clutch. ....BAM!!! PERFECTION!!!!
This comes with a small sacrifice though. Cold starting is non existent. You have to hold the throttle when starting for about one minute.
Is it worth it?? Definitely!!!
Do I miss perfect cold starts? Definitely!!!
Would I ever take out the ball bearing and go back to the way it was??? NEVER!!!!
GOOD LUCK OWNERS!!! Try if you dare. And again. Trial only.
*******Only do this if your bike is out of warranty and you feel 100% comfortable doing so.*****
Since February 2018 my dad was sick of the hunting idle. He was determined to solve it. And he did. But here's the back story:
Seems like the newer ECU's have more power to better control the IDLE AIR MOTOR but not everyone wants to spend money on a new ECU. And on top of that, there are still a few bikes with the new ECU's that have that annoying hunting idle and high idle situation. And there are some IDLE AIR MOTORS that are faulty. And there are VALVE BODIES that are adjusted incorrect or poorly made with the butterfly flaps not tuned. ????? Meaning one flap when closed has a .003" larger gap then it's neighbor. All around sucks! and makes for an unhappy owner. If a custom "hand made" builder were to assemble this bike, every detail would be looked over and tuned. So that's what we are doing.
So even after you tune the flaps, clean the IAM, change all the sensors, re-map the bike. With the pre-2016 bikes there still seems to be this issue. So my dad warmed up his bike to full running temp. put a ball bearing in the hose between the IAM and the air box. Then, cranked up the idle screw so it actually does control the idle. BAM!!!! Perfection. Like a new bike.
I did this to mine about 3 weeks ago. BAM!!! a new bike. Why did I wait so long to try this??? The idle will always drop smoothly to where you told it to and NEVER EVER CLIMBS or hunts!!!! Say you're doing 120km/h at 4,800 rpm and pull in the clutch. ....BAM!!! PERFECTION!!!!
This comes with a small sacrifice though. Cold starting is non existent. You have to hold the throttle when starting for about one minute.
Is it worth it?? Definitely!!!
Do I miss perfect cold starts? Definitely!!!
Would I ever take out the ball bearing and go back to the way it was??? NEVER!!!!
GOOD LUCK OWNERS!!! Try if you dare. And again. Trial only.
*******Only do this if your bike is out of warranty and you feel 100% comfortable doing so.*****