How to tune my Amals on 1970 750 Commando ?

I just purchased a 1970 750 Commando, with fully reconditioned stock dual Amals (On my previous Norton I had a single Makuni, so the Amals are kinda new to me). The Amals are fully cleaned, re-sleeved, jetted, ect... I am trying to figure out the best settings to start with tuning them and balancing them for proper idle. What would be a good "first kick" setting for the pilot jet and air screw on a 70 Norton ? I would ideally like to start the bike and be idling around 1000 rpm, then tune from there. Any tips on tuning them from scratch, what to listen for, what it means if its smokes or if the smoke is white or black. Like I mentioned I am not experienced with dual Amals or carbs. but I want to learn so please communicate in basic terms. Thanks !

Brad,
There is whole bunch of stuff via the website on Amals the search option may be useful for more detail, but here's my version in brief and I assume the carbs are clean inside and out and float level set. Amals are sensitive to gum in the Pilot (idle) jet. Another thing is Float level setting, almost invariably forgotton or ignored.

1. Remove the fuel tank, you need to get to the carb tops.
2. Remove airfilter, you have to feel or see the slides.
3. Slacken off the slide cable adjuster screws on the carb tops.
4. Remove the slide lifter screws (angled ones)
5. Work the throttle grip to see how the slides lift in unison or out of sync.
6. Adjust the cable tension on the carb tops or in-line cable adjusters to equalise the slide lift.
7. Refit the slide adjuster screws and very gently turn in until they just nudge the slides up. Turn the throttle grip to see they are still in sync.
8. Turn the slide lifter screws in 1 turn. Pays to reference the screw position like a clock, i,.e slot a 6 / 12, twice brings it to 6/12 one whole turn.
9. Turn the Mixture screw (nearest the manifold) all the way in gently. As soon as it bottoms out, back it off 1 turn. Thats moderately rich.
10. Fit the fuel tank and hoses and tickle the carbs float plungers. Actually just press them down until fuel pees out.
11. Start the bike, if it has chokes fitted better wind them on if its cold, otherwise work the twist grip gently to stay up around 2,000RPM for a minute or so.
12. Once warmed up, (it is better to go for a short ride) you can adjust the idle speed to around 1,000RPM by turning up or down the Slide Adjuster screw on each carb equally on very small increments. remember see it as a clock, both carbs must have equal slide lift.
13. Mixture if rich is BLACK smoke, BLUE is oil smoke. Generally I find taking the Mixture screw out to a max of 1 and half turns is about right.

Mick

I adjust my Amals with a carb stick - a manual manometer. After an initial setting of 1 to 1 1/2 turns out on the air screw and 1 turn in on the idle speed screw, I install the manometer to the balance pipe on each manifold. To set the idle speed screw, I turn the screw in until I feel it touch the slide, then open the throttle a bit and add one turn. Since the screw hits the slide at an angle, I don't like to raise the slide by screw pressure.

Once the bike is running and warm, set each air screw for maximum vacuum on the gauge, and adjust the idle screws for comfortable idle and equal vacuum.

Once this is done, usually two rounds of adjustment is all that is needed, the throttle can be synchronized with the manometer, too. If, as you open the throttle, vacuum doesn't move equally at each manifold, turn one cable adjuster (top center of the carb body) in or out until they match.

After a couple of adjustments while sorting the bike out, I can now do this without removing the tank or air cleaner. In fact I just did this Monday, which was the first time I've checked the settings in over 2000 miles. 1/2 turn on one throttle cable, no change to the air screws, 1/8 turn on one idle screw - balanced.