hole in my head

Sometime there just not enough Advil to cure a headache ....Repairing a bad thread... Being careful to not drill thru my exhaust port using a drill collar no problem... tapping new thread for helicoil then it happens... ouch a dimple in the exhaust runner... next a hole @#*()+!!!... OK then I think not all's lost... load up & take it over to my local fabricator's shop... listen to his BS for a few before the realization that the hole can not be repaired, not what I wanted to here... Ok Plan B....going back to my auto / marine aluminum repair experiences contacted Contronics corp... I have used there product in the past repairing heat exchangers with hi temp epoxy's..... Bingo... hopefully I have 2 component ( Aluminum power & Binder) Durabond ma 7025, withstand's up temp up to 1,200 degree's ... 2 day cure process 24 hrs at room temp... 2 hrs @ 200 degree's & then final 2 hours @ 400 which might be to much for this head without some sort of distortion... ( Open for discussion ? ) ..... anyway going to mix it up put into a stryinge pack into head bolt stud hole then install stud..... will find out after I get it up & running how the repair holds up... will let you know

You live by the choices you make..... Tripower

Have you looked athttp://www.locknstitch.com/repair_cracked_engine_block.htm
This process involved drilling (you've already done that, then using their special tap, and driving in a threaded pin to seal the hole. From what I can tell from your picture, your situation would be a perfect candidate for this. I used this method (and their tools/materials) to repair several cracks in a 1940 Cadillac Flathead engine, right in the valve seat area. I found the Lock-n-Stitch folks to be very helpful on the phone in advising the correct size and configuration of threaded insert to use.

As I recall, the total cost for the threaded inserts, special tap, bits, special sealant, etc. was just a bit over $100

My Caddy engine rebuild now has about 8,000 miles in two years on those crack repairs on that old flathead, it's still going strong.

Here are the sequential photos of one of the repairs:
Drilling a hole over the crack


After tapping for threads the Lock n Stitch insert is screwed in (the drive head snaps off once it bottoms out)


Finally, I used a die grinder to smooth the insert head even with the surrounding surface:


Phil - Austin, TX

Is it going to present a problem if left alone? The hole is in the exhaust tract but it will be blocked with the stud. Now if this was in the intake..... not so good, but people have fixed holes there too.
Sure, put some epoxy of some sort in there, but even if the epoxy comes loose and blows out the exhaust pipe, it shouldn't matter.
If you are concerned about heat cure, maybe just use some jb weld, it cures at room temp.

Glen

I'm very familiar with original hi temp JBW and can assure you it does not set up fully at room temp even after a week and takes a few hundred degrees over long periods to really set up hard and even then it gets soft/flexable after about 400'F but if trapped in place like I did on Peel gas jet cuts from head gasket leaks [head came that way] to push rod tunnels its works a treat. This JBW Peel bodge lasted through several head removals and gasket changes before began to crumble out so will just re-slaughter and razor off if using that head again.

We have used hi temp jb weld which is for the every day Joe... Contronics manufacture specialty metal epoxy adhesives for aluminum, stainless nickel ... most metals www.cotronics.com a little pricey but worth the cost... and the bonus is it machinable & you can tap it also

You live by the choices, you make..... tripower

I saved the special epoxy site as cold welding can be such a magic solution. I know the limits of JBW and cautioned at head temps it must be trapped as gets soft so may not adhere or hold stable shape. I'd expect JBW to decay to crumble state on exhuast side. There is also special alu rods like Muzzy Welding sells that might be fit for intake ports and holes in the head. These do tend to be darker than surrounds though. Don't require Alu melting temps so may not weaken the surrounds a TIG does.