Help me I'm blind-head bolts

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Marcb

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I blew a head gasket and am ready to take out the head bolts but can only find 7. One on each side of the plugs and three in the front. Where are the other three? By reading the chart I can't find number two,four and five. Where are they?
Thanks
 
'2' is the nut below the head to barrel joint near the carbs.
The bolts "each side of the plugs" are 3, 4, 5 & 6, so I believe what you are looking for are 7 & 8, also nuts (sleeve nuts) below the exhaust ports near the front outer barrel base flange nuts.
 
Fast Eddie said:
Seriously dude, if you getting that far into it, by a workshop manual !!

The damage you’ll cause without one will FAR exceed the cost of one ...
Click to expand...
I got the manual. Didn't anything about bolt coming from the bottom.
 
Help me I'm blind-head bolts

Front Lower


Help me I'm blind-head bolts

Front Upper


Help me I'm blind-head bolts

Rear



Help me I'm blind-head bolts


Side

The Rear one is the hardest. Getting the correct tool is a huge help.

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - COMBINATION SPANNER, 1/4

COMBINATION SPANNER, 1/4
andover-norton.co.uk

Help me I'm blind-head bolts
 
I do have the manual. I found the bolts, all underneath. My next question is how do you get them out and how do you torque them after reinstalling the head? I can get the SAE socket on but that's it. Is there a special tool?
 
Torque by "feel", or work up a torque extension:

Tools_Torque.jpg


The Open End is for cylinder base nuts, the ring spanner on right is for cylinder head nuts.

Slick
 
Marcb said:
I do have the manual. I found the bolts, all underneath. My next question is how do you get them out and how do you torque them after reinstalling the head? I can get the SAE socket on but that's it. Is there a special tool?
Click to expand...
You need to get Whitworth tools for working on the engine.
 
swooshdave said:
You need to get Whitworth tools for working on the engine.
Click to expand...
Yes a full WW tool set from sockets to open/ring spanners will be a good investment for engine, GB and primary and a few other places, AF or Metric just don't do it, swap meets are also a good place to find second hand tools for working on our Norton's.

Ashley
 
Marcb said:
I got the manual. Didn't anything about bolt coming from the bottom.
Click to expand...
Well both my workshop manuals do and if you look on the page that shows the head gasket it shows all bolt and stud holes and the order for tensioning down of the head and they are all WW tools to be used not AF or metric.
 
Thanks for all your help guys. Have all sockets but no wrenches. Will order asap. No wonder the front and back of the cylinders were leaking oil. Reminds me of my days of working on airplanes. Run the engine and tighten until the leaks stop. Sometimes we had to make the tools. Really there is not much difference between the two except one goes faster.
 
Im able to torque front lower sleeve nuts and rear nut using a 7/16" ring spanner. For accurate torque setting on these, I use the same ring spanner held in a MotionPro torque socket adaptor clamp :

This allows you to attach your torque wrench at 90 degrees to the spanner n thereby keeping applied torque at handle same as applied to fastner. There are specialy spanners with socket fittings on them but need a different one for each size you might encounter. The clamp works for wide range of spanners.

The three Norton head underside nuts are all on 3/8" studs and need 30 ft-lbs. Same as the 5 top side bolts (4 at sides of each spark plug and top center). The top front left/right nuts are into 5/16" studs and are torqued to 20 ft-lbs.
 

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Marcb said:
I got the manual. Didn't anything about bolt coming from the bottom.
Click to expand...
I guess it depends which manual you have. I just checked mine and the factory version is rather vague, as yours probably is. The (often criticised) Haynes manual however is very clear, showing a page from the parts book highlighting the 3 studs and calling it out in the text.

I have two manuals and the parts book in the shed, and cross referencing them generally covers the basics. I would always recommend anyone doing own maintenance had at least these on the self.

There‘s also an excellent Norton restoration manual recently written by Norman White that all Norton owners should add to their library.

The Mick Hemmings DVDs mentioned by a previous poster really are fabulous, but as far as I know, you have to join the club to purchase these (which seems a bit long winded in these instant digital days) !
 
Tornado said:
Im able to torque front lower sleeve nuts and rear nut using a 7/16" ring spanner.
Click to expand...

I believe Marcb's Commando is an early 750 Roadster which would normally have 1/4" Whitworth hexagon sleeve nuts.
www.rgmnorton.co.uk

CYLINDER HEAD SLEEVE NUT

USED ON ALL 750 ENGINES, 3/8" X 26TPI THREAD. FITS THE TWO FRONT STUDS LOCATED IN THE CYLINDER HEAD. 1/4" WHIT SPANNER SIZE. LSO SEE 063192S FOR
www.rgmnorton.co.uk
 
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