Halfway rearsets anyone?

Dellis

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Dave - just a heads up on alignment...
In my investigations into this mod I have noticed that stock footpegs are not horizontal, but turned up a bit at the ends.
How much? Not sure, but it's part of the reason I am setting the RHS peg parallel to the existing. Then will use an engineers level to duplicate that on the LHS (cut it a bit early - oops!)

Thanks for pointing that out, I hadn’t realised. Anyway I’ll have a look at the angle and when i make the jigs I’ll build that in.

Dave
 

robs ss

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Here's the set-up ready for welding. Footpegs same level and angle as original - just 4" rearwards.
Rearset weld 1.JPG
Rearset weld 2.JPG
 

robs ss

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It's important to me that the end product is functional as well as looking OEM - just like an "overlooked" factory fitment.
The ability of the stock footpeg rubbers to absorb vibrations is good too.
 

robs ss

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aar1.JPG

Yep - tacked up then fitted and tested. All went well so the remaining weld completed.
Need to grind & sand the weld areas then fit and weld the pivot block for the gear-shift linkage - then off to the chroming people.
It is nicer to ride - see photos for details.
They made me realise why so many Roadster riders are saying I don't need this.
If you look at the pics, the pegs are directly below the rear corner of the fuel tank - exactly where the stock pegs are on a Roadster.

aar2.JPG

aar3.JPG
aar4.JPG
aar5.JPG
 

cliffa

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View attachment 79585
Yep - tacked up then fitted and tested. All went well so the remaining weld completed.
Need to grind & sand the weld areas then fit and weld the pivot block for the gear-shift linkage - then off to the chroming people.
It is nicer to ride - see photos for details.
They made me realise why so many Roadster riders are saying I don't need this.
If you look at the pics, the pegs are directly below the rear corner of the fuel tank - exactly where the stock pegs are on a Roadster.

View attachment 79586
View attachment 79587 View attachment 79588 View attachment 79589
Really great work Rob !!

Just a suggestion before you send them off to the platers. You could do something similar to what I came up with in 2017 (I cannot believe it was that long ago). Then you can remove the brackets for the switch and the extended nub on the footrest arm.


Cheers,

cliffa.
 

robs ss

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Really great work Rob !!

Just a suggestion before you send them off to the platers. You could do something similar to what I came up with in 2017 (I cannot believe it was that long ago). Then you can remove the brackets for the switch and the extended nub on the footrest arm.


Cheers,

cliffa.
Thanks cliffa - That's what I am looking for
It has become obvious to me that I need to eliminate the existing switch - so started a new thread
Where did you buy that switch?
Cheers
Rob
 

cliffa

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Thanks cliffa - That's what I am looking for
It has become obvious to me that I need to eliminate the existing switch - so started a new thread
Where did you buy that switch?
Cheers
Rob
Hi Rob, it's just a generic rear brake light switch off Ebay

E.G.




or straight..

 
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Just an idea

That's the same set up as mine Rob any early Honda rear brake light switch works great, I was lucky and had a few given to me, I will see if I have a spare one still as my first switch got melted on the muffler but still works, didn't realize it was sitting on the muffler so have replaced it and should still have one laying around somewhere will let you know.

Ashley
 

cliffa

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I think I put the dimensions on the original thread. Apart from the ease of fitting the best bit is that the harder you press on the brake lever the tighter the bracket is held. You need to make sure that the opening on hook part continues around so clears the edge of the machined recess in the footrest hangar. (It will become obvious when you look closely at it).
 
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