Greasing the Isolastics Washers & End Caps

Changing the front & rear isolatics to the Mk3 type on my 72 Combat. Getting ready to place Power Unit back to the frame. Have the new Mk3 type isolastic rubber in the rear tube. (Which I greased to slide in)

According to the Mk3 Workshop Manual, Section F3 (4) states: "Grease, using silicone grease as Relesil No. 7, on all faces of washers, face rings and end caps".

This is what I'm going to do as instructed, anyone out there has not done this and suggest something else? Or do as instructed. I found Plumber's Silicone Grease which is 90% pure silicone. Thank you for your reply's. Jerry

I just did those last weekend on a bike and the fronts are way more difficult than the rear - a friend who does all the work on the brit cars for pebble beach and has rebuilt Norton forever advised me to use mineral oil lightly on them - saying that is what Rolls Royce recommends on all rubber bushing /fitments - and he's found it to be the best in terms of longevity and easy of putting them together

mikegray660 said:

I just did those last weekend on a bike and the fronts are way more difficult than the rear - a friend who does all the work on the brit cars for pebble beach and has rebuilt Norton forever advised me to use mineral oil lightly on them - saying that is what Rolls Royce recommends on all rubber bushing /fitments - and he's found it to be the best in terms of longevity and easy of putting them together

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Mineral Oil, never gave that a thought. This silicone grease I have just seems too thick. I error on the Section #, I meant Section F4 (4).

mikegray660 said:

I just did those last weekend on a bike and the fronts are way more difficult than the rear - a friend who does all the work on the brit cars for pebble beach and has rebuilt Norton forever advised me to use mineral oil lightly on them - saying that is what Rolls Royce recommends on all rubber bushing /fitments - and he's found it to be the best in terms of longevity and easy of putting them together

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That's what I used, because it was handy.

Since they make rubber "Mineral oil resistant seals" for the food industry, it would lead me to conclude that not all rubber is ok with mineral oil. I suspect the recommendation for silicone grease (di-electric grease is the same thing) is made to ensure there are no compatibility issues regardless of what type of rubber is used.

Some will say not to use the silicone grease, I'm not sure why because I always thought silicone was good for rubber. There is a super lube out there that is recommended. It's called P-80 emulsion. Temporary rubber assembly lubricant. I think you can get samples of it. ipcol.com Personally I used some silicone dielectric compound made by GE called insulgrease G-620 because I had a big tube of it.

Dave
69S

travelerjerry said:

: "Grease, using silicone grease as Relesil No. 7, on all faces of washers, face rings and end caps".

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I use petroleum jelly / white grease for everything needing a bit of slippery. It is perfectly neutral (you can put it on a babys' bum, right).

Its what we used for installing o'rings etc in Boeings.

Cheers

Had a tube of Dielectric Grease and used that. Seems to spread nice. Greased a light coat on everything. Threads, ptf washers, collars, set screw threads and inside of rubber boots. Next will be getting the power unit back in the frame.

Hope to post some pictures later on to show the set up where I may be able to do this on my own with the use of 3 motorcycle lift jack's I have. Got the frame tubes protected now. Thanks for the replys. Jerry

"Its what we used for installing o'rings etc in Boeings."

What did you use for battery connections?

mike996 said:

"Its what we used for installing o'rings etc in Boeings."

What did you use for battery connections?

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Mate, I was Airframes and engines, We did not go near sparkies (queer trades). I believe they use a brown compound called LPS3. Set like varnish.

I use white grease on everything, including battery terminals.

I use dielectric grease on most rubber assemblies that are not for some kind of oil retention (like isolastics). I also have a tube of silicone oil marked S-200 and with a Canon copier logo on it. About the consistancy of gear oil. Also has " item no. FG 1-0246 ATO" don't know if it's getable any more or not but it's some slippery stuff.

This is a confusing topic to me. Assembling new rubbers in the ISO tube need some help from a non lasting lube like a soap or what Dogt and I and many others I am sure) have used the P80 assembly lube. Go here for a free sample. http://www.ipcol.com/shopcontent.asp?type=requestsample
Faucet grease and the like will last a long, long time and the rubber will not set and will be loosy goosy in there. Not a good feeling nor proper.

However, I really do not care what the workshop manual may say about this, lubing anything to do with a Teflon contact situation is asking for trouble and is quite frankly, moronic. Other than protecting against moisture, what would be the point. Boots on or not, dirt can get in there and lubed ios will collect this dirt and inhibit any advantageous condition the Teflon my present.

If your going to trailer it around, put the boots on and lube if you see fit.......or not. If you're going to ride, leave the boots off and let it be dry.

My opinion!

There are two different things happening in this thread.

One is a discussion of using lube on the isolastic rubbers.

Two is what to use on the end caps and friction resistant washers, as per the original post.

First, I have read from a number of respected sources that the rubbers should be stuck to the iso tubes. The original manual says to put them in with gasoline. I suspect to achieve this. However, I can't see any reason for this. It isn't like the rubbers are going to go somewhere with ten thousandths of an inch to run wild in. I would rather that my rubbers moved about a bit than wonder whether or not they were perfectly centered when they adhered themselves to the tube. It seems the lesser of evils.

As for lubing the end caps. This is the kind of argument that could rage forever. One guy says leave them dry so they don't collect dirt. Another guy may just as well proclaim that they should be serviced and cleaned regularly. I think it would be hard to argue against slick being good for movement. Dirt is bad due to abrasion. If you could lube it and keep it clean it seems the best of both, but then you probably need to keep the boots on. But the third guy will tell you that the boots collect water and are a bad idea. So it goes, pick your devil and deal with it.

For the record I use a product from Chemsearch called Thread-Eze Ultra for almost everything. A dab on bolts before threading, a bit on axles before sliding them into place, and yes some on my isolastics. I love the stuff and would really like to see it catch on as it is only available for purchase by the case and I need a bunch of friends who want some when my current stock runs out!

http://www.chemsearch.ph/pages/productd ... n&pid=5913

http://www.chemsearch.my/Product%20Tech ... 0Ultra.pdf

Russ

Right there are two things going on here. Actually on the iso rubbers I use just a bit of tire snot (my discription of tire bead lube) it dries and obvious is ok for rubber. I spray the friction surfaces with plain old silicone spray. It's very light weight and doesn't collect dirt. Probably doesn't last too long either but may offer a bit of protection for the steel parts.

When I think of teflon I think of a super slick surface void of any outside lubrication. With the iso surfaces this seem right.

However Venhil suggest running 3in1 oil down their teflon lined cables of which I do.

ISO's are for comfort and have little to do with performance other than poor handling from mal-adjustment.
As rvich suggests, whether you use boot or not, lube or not, old type or new type, the concensus is that they are to be kept clean and adjusted.

Lube on an iso donut doesn't have any affect on the iso function - which is just "rubber in compression." THe donuts can't slide anywhere because there are snap rings that retain them in position on the tube. Lube doesn't have any effect on the compression itself; it is only there to ease installation/removal. Whether you do what the manual recommends re lube or some other procedure, as long as the lube used (if any) doesn't adversely affect the rubber, it's of no consequence. A lube that dries out won't help you on removal time but you can always get the donuts out no matter how bad they may be "welded" into the tube - I know this from personal experience!

Here's what one of my iso tubes looked like when I pulled it - yes, it's all rust. Rubbers didn't look too bad as far as being all there but they were decidedly off center from years of support. I purchased all new rubbers/tubes/snap rings.

Issue 1.
There is nothing to discus as far as best practice goes. Best put a Permanent Lube on the rubber cushions in case someone in future is curious whats inside, as there is no reason whatsoever to have the cushions somehow bond to the tube insides. Insides can rust w/o protection make future investigation more trouble.

Issue 2.

However, I really do not care what the workshop manual may say about this, lubing anything to do with a Teflon contact situation is asking for trouble and is quite frankly, moronic. Other than protecting against moisture, what would be the point. Boots on or not, dirt can get in there and lubed ios will collect this dirt and inhibit any advantageous condition the Teflon my present.

If your going to trailer it around, put the boots on and lube if you see fit.......or not. If you're going to ride, leave the boots off and let it be dry.

My opinion! pvisseriii

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travelerjerry said:

Had a tube of Dielectric Grease and used that. Seems to spread nice. Greased a light coat on everything. Threads, ptf washers, collars, set screw threads and inside of rubber boots. Next will be getting the power unit back in the frame.

Hope to post some pictures later on to show the set up where I may be able to do this on my own with the use of 3 motorcycle lift jack's I have. Got the frame tubes protected now. Thanks for the replys. Jerry

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Well, I used the dielectric grease and used the boots. Here are a few photos what I utilized in absence of an assistant. Worked well, the Kendon mini scissor jack is a must if you get one of these Kendon lifts. Able to get that unit in all by myself. For the Craftsman Motorcycle lift, I secured the board to the platform so it would't shift.