Grant's Featherbed Special

guest76 · Sep 28, 2015

Time to turn our attention to oiling

We gave the area around the oil pump a really good clean

Made sure that the Wellseal soaked gasket was put in place the right way round.

Ensure you double check this - not the case with this particular gasket, but I have seen universal fit ones with slots instead of holes that supposedly can be fitted either way up - however, the alignment of some of those still overlaps the holes by too much.

guest76 · Sep 28, 2015

Here are the new six start work drive and pump sprocket.

These were bought from Andover Norton

The new worm drive in place - don't forget this is left hand thread.

guest76 · Sep 28, 2015

Shiny new oil pump from Andover Norton

I actually stripped it down and polished up the internals - probably rendering the warranty totally void - but i think well worth doing anyway.

It was brand new, so of course there was no scoring or damage.
However, there was a little bit of looseness between the internal gears and the top/bottom covers which I completely eliminated by polishing it.

Here is the pump and sprocket fitted.

guest76 · Sep 28, 2015

I decided to go for a Mark 3 timing cover

Although it is not a smooth as the original one, I really like the idea of the anti-sumping mod that Norton did to this as standard - seems like the learnt by their own mistakes on some things!!!

From what i can see, it is the same as sending the cover to AMR for the timing cover modification

Although they only charge 70 bucks, by the time I factor in shipping, it was the same price to get a Mark 3 cover from Andover

guest76 · Sep 28, 2015

I got the SRM http://www.srmclassicbikes.com pressure relief valve - it's a nice bit of kit.
Well made, and carefully assembled.

I made sure there was not swarf, and metal filings in the new cover - worth checking this, and actually quite a lot of crud blew out with the air line, from where the holes and oilways were drilled.

I particularly like with the SRM pressure relief valve that they make the valve body threads so that they will be a real tight fit in the timing cover.

Hopefully that means no leakage!

It would have been really cool if they made these for the Norton with a little tell-tale like you see on the Triumphs and BSAs

guest76 · Sep 28, 2015

Andover Norton supply a nice little kit of parts when you buy the mark 3 timing cover

First job was to give everything a good clean

The oil seals were a VERY tight fit - we thoroughly oiled them up, and drove them home with a little drift we made out of nylon to exactly the correct diameters - this made sure there was no damage to the new seals

The seal was held in place by a little circlip - make sure it locates properly with that satisfying audible "click"

Finally the spring and the plunger - this is the check valve that sits against the oil pump.

I was reassured by how week the spring is - enough springiness to push against the oil pump when the engine is off, but not so much springiness that oil flow is held back or restricted in any way.

You'll remember my disappointment in the anti wet sump valve that the previous owner had fitted to the ES2 engine!!!

I will forever live in fear of these things - and have a much better solution planned for this engine!

triumph2 · Sep 28, 2015

The circlip on the oil seal would be better if it was reversed. Not a big deal in this instance but the sharp edge should face out. Where it is important is when the circlip is really holding something in place because the rounded edge can allow it to pop out.

ashman · Sep 28, 2015

gtiller said:
Cheers Dave!

Anyone that knows me also knows that i'm a bloody-minded, stubborn bastard.

And actually going up the bitsa route (albeit a Norton bitsa) has really allowed me to step outside the 'norm' and do a few interesting, and exciting mods.

For me, this is as much about an engineering project as anything else - and lots of little challenges and hurdles are what makes it interesting.
Building a special lets me do that!

...i will just need to steer well clear of the rivet counters in the future. Could you imagine what would happen if i blogged about my project over on the Norton Owners Club forum!!! :wink:

Don't worry about what others think, I copped a lot of flak when I decided to convert my Commando to a Featherbed in 1980 and my bike only a few years old from buying it new, but having a bike that is diffrent to what everone else has, one that you have built with your own hands and knowing every nut and bolt on your bike, then taking it out on its first run will be so rewarding and if done right first time you won't have much troubles at all, take your time to learn how to ride it and how it handles and getting use to the lightness, I am glad I went the way I did with my 850 Featherbed and after 35 years of riding it I still get that feeling when I first fired it up and took it out on the road.

Ashley

wilkey113 · Sep 28, 2015

Looks like you've done such a nice job with the motor build of the ES2, it'd be a shame to put it to waste. If you've got any inclinations of selling it on, I'd surely be interested.

ashman · Sep 28, 2015

I can remove my motor, gearbox, primary and engine mounts all out in one lift, having two diffrent motors you could have 2 bikes in the one, but I know what motor will perform better with so much more power.

Ashley

guest76 · Oct 1, 2015

@triumph2 thanks - i'll remember that one, and swap it over the next time i have the cover off.

guest76 · Oct 1, 2015

On goes the timing cover gasket - again soaked in Wellseal to ensure i good seal.
I very nearly didn't paint this one in sealant because of the possible need to take the cover off for inspection and maintenance.
However, it's not something i'll be doing weekly, and the gaskets are cheap enough.

Shiny new timing cover bolts - not the bolts sets these days have been standardised regards length - i think i am right in saying there were three different lengths of bolt originally.
Now they are all the same except for one.

Finally the cover can be buttoned up!

guest76 · Oct 1, 2015

My plan is to run an electronic rev counter, so this is a blanking plate to cover up the hole where the tacho drive once was.

Fitted - I look forward to not having the unsightly drive cable running up to the instruments - although not as ugly as the one on the Dominator (which is taken off the front of the timing cover) it is still a pain in the butt to deal with.

guest76 · Oct 1, 2015

I have these beautiful covers:

I wanted to fit these as a tribute and a nod to Sir Eddy!
They are investment cast rather than rough cast, so the density of the fins is higher and the finish is better.

Not hugely practical, and doesn't improve performance or reliability in any way at all.

BUT they look trick, and the money went toward getting Sir Eddy's bike back on the salt, so well worth it to me

guest76 · Oct 1, 2015

Rocker spindle cover plates installed - i really like the fact that these are one piece.
So much easier to work with than the original setup.

guest76 · Oct 1, 2015

I replaced the rocker adjusters and nuts for these allen key units.
The nuts are made of dural (aluminium) and are sacrificial - the idea is that the aluminium threads will deform slightly when tightened and are less susceptible to rattling loose.

I really don't like all the weird angles involved with he adjusters and the valves - the contact point is small, and the wear looks to be an issue.
I also looked at the mushroom type adjusters, but I have a feeling these would actually have the same issue, maybe even more exaggerated.

I plan to get a set of rockers to polish and lighten in the future, so this is an area I will look at and experiment with!

Even with the adjusters setup correctly, I didn't gunk these gaskets up with Wellseal.
I full expect some settlement of the new valves in the new seats, and the new pushrods - so the covers will be off and on again pretty regylalry to start with.

Sir Eddy's covers really are a great finishing touch!

guest76 · Oct 1, 2015

Stainless braided hoses for the rocker oil feed

My hope is that these will last well, and not perish, fray, or leak

guest76 · Oct 1, 2015

I went for this cNw/Comstock inlet manifold.

It is a work of art, of course a perfect fit, and I particularly like the integral balance pipe.

I am really pleased with how this is all coming together - it makes such a difference to use quality parts!

guest76 · Oct 1, 2015

I'll get the timing perfected with a strobe light once the bike is in a position to be started up, but for now i used my timing wheel and digital gauge to find 28 degrees before top dead center

Excuse the camera angle - looking at it square on, it was 28 - honest!!!

Using a digital gauge and wheel to find true TDC (I did 40 degrees each side, so that I could account for any backlash) is so quick and easy - it will be interesting to see if the timing marks on the other side of the crank tally up!!!

guest76 · Oct 1, 2015

I installed the electronic ignition rotor as per the instructions in the manual

Based on the recommendations on this forum, I opted for the Tri-Spark http://www.trispark.com.au in the end.

I really was totally on the fence between Tri-Spark and Power Arc - both having great write ups and reviews.

Rightly or wrongly, i made my decision in the end based on inductance rather than optical - both are equally good I'm sure, but the idea of an optical solution running on a dirty old motorbike really didn't make us much sense in my mind.

As I say, both good - it was just personal choice, and a purely psychological decision.

Grant's Featherbed Special

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