Grant's Featherbed Special

Whats the alloy plate on the steering head. ?
One of those euro vins ?

My dad told a story of those main bearings.
As a lad, he had a Norton, bit earlier than this, and somewhere it needed new main bearings.
The shop he entrusted it to told him the timing side case was cracked, and he would need a new one.
More expense.
A good while later, he figured out they cracked it while installing the bearings, they didn't heat it !
 
Great thread, thanks for posting it! I remember the days before the internet too and trying to source parts. In 1976 we had a family trip from Houston to London. My brother had a friend who had a Sunbeam and when he found out we were going he asked us if we could go to a shop and get a really hard part to find (he'd already set it all up with the owner by telephone by the time we got there) I remember spending the better part of a day looking for the small shop. I lugged the part back in one of our suitcases IIRC . My Dad was pretty cool that way :wink:
 
@Rohan - yes it was just an aluminium dog tag type thing with the frame number stamped on it fitted by the previous owner.
As per usual on a café style featherbed, the left gusset (where the frame number is) received an extra hole for the regulation rear sets - it was drilled through half of one of the numbers. It's still readable, but only just!

@cjandme - that would probably have been Stewart Engineering then!
Stewart's were based in London (Putney I think it was) before they disappeared for a few years and eventually popped up down near me on the South Coast.
 
Next job was to fit the main bearing outer ring to the other crankcase half.



Same treatment as before - warmed it up with the heat gun, and dropped the frozen bearing outer ring straight in after a liberal smear with Loctite bearing retainer - I used plenty on this one, as there was evidence that the old one had been spinning in the case.
 

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Hi , a real pleasure to read your post.............! I wish you and your Pa , a nice time! enjoy it.............
 
When we stripped the engine down, we had noted that there was a lot of play in the big end, so stripped the crank down completely, de-sludged, then dropped it round to an old boy for assembly and balancing. We don't have the right tools to do this ourselves, so the expertise of someone that knows was definitely the best option here.

Something my Dad and I have talked about a lot as we have been doing this project is that people with these old-school skills are fading away.
There are lots of old men in sheds that have so much knowledge and skills with these old bikes, and their businesses are not being continued as they get too old to work, and retire.

It's such a shame!
Don't get me wrong - I love modern engineering, and use it wherever I can.
But there is always a place for a man in a garden shed who has mastered his trade over the last fifty years!



As you can see, the crank was in a bit of a mess.



So we drove out the old small end bush, and pressed in a new one (with lots of heat)
The new bush was nicely scrolled, whereas the old one was plain, so hopefully the scrolling will keep a nice layer of oil between the surfaces and wear better than the old one did!
Double checked the fit of the piston gudgeon pin (wrist pin) it was perfectly snug with no play.
Then we gave the conrod a good polish, and got out some of the marks left in it from last time the engine was 'overhauled'

Next up we did a few trial fits of the crank in the cases, and tested the end float.
It took three attempts with different shims and a dial test indicator until we got it spot on.



With the right shims on the crankshaft, a smear of Loctite bearing retainer and fitting of the main bearings was next.



The Loctite dries anaerobically (ie, by excluding the air around it) so a quick wave of a flame around it sets it up straight away, so you don't need to wait for it to set up.
 

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With both bearings shimmed up and driven on to the crankshaft, I could make sure the bearings were well oiled, and we were ready for the final fit of the crankshaft to the cases!
 

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The next job was to attach the engine case studs - I use permanent (green) Loctite on these



Because I really hate to see Red Hermetite or Blue Hylomar squished out all over the place, I looked around to find an alternative.
I had pretty much set my mind up on Yamabond, but then when I was in my local Autostore one day (Halfords) I saw Loctite Flange Sealant 5699 on the shelf.
It is a high temperature flexible sealant (they call it an industrial silicon) and it works really well.
We have actually been using instead of some of the gaskets on a couple of bikes, and it is working really well.



With the sealant applied all round the mating surfaces, it was time to bring the two case halves together!



First things first, we wrapped the conrod in cloth, to make sure it wasn't rattling around.



Next we put the acorn nuts on the studs, put through the engine case bolts, and made sure they were done up finger tight.
The trick with silicon-based sealer is not to do it up tight straight away - start with finger tight just so a bit of the silicon starts to ooze out.
Then wait for the silicon to set up, before torquing up the nuts and bolts - seems to work great, and have seen no leaks at all by working in this way!
 

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Next came the barrel/head studs - once again, these were screwed in with green Loctite.
With studs, some people swear by screwing them down, then backing them out by half a turn.
I never understood why people do this, and I have never subscribed to it - to me, that would just mean less contact area.
So the studs were wound all the way in.



Then it was time to fit the new piston - after a LOT of discuss with several different people, in the end I went for a forged piston made by Omega.
The piston is actually for an Inter, but the bore and stroke are the same as the ES2 - with one compression plate under the barrel base and no head gasket, it should give me what I was looking for.
I wanted high-ish compression, but not so high that I couldn't ride the bike around town, or kickstart it - this seems like a pretty good balance.
This combination should give me about 8.5:1
The bike would have been 7.1:1 out of the factory

With a light hone, the barrel was ready!



With plenty of engine oil and my trusty piston ring compressor - fitting the barrel was a breeze - so much easier with a single cylinder bike!!!
 

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Next it was time to turn my attention to these babies!



Cams supplied by Mike Pemberton from Pushrod Performance http://www.pushrod-performance.co.uk
Mike is like Jim Comnoz, but for Norton Pushrod Singles... he is THE GURU!

The cams are made by Dave Newman Cams, to Mike's design



Cams fitted roughly in the right place - then to get the instructions out and take some more accurate measurements



With the piston at TDC, its time to get some of my timing gear out, so that i can determine exact top dead centre
 

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First job is to attach my timing wheel - the bigger the better with these things, as the larger the diameter the further apart the degree graduations are, which means you can get a great level of accuracy.



Next I attach my Dial Test Indicator - this one has a lot of movement, so is great for setting engines up.
I use a deck tool to hold the gauge securely - it's magnetic, so great for iron barrels.



Setting up at 40 degrees either side of TDC allows me to find exact Top Dead Centre, and also accounts for any slop/slack in the crank (to be honest, there was no slop at all)
 

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Now to get the cylinder head ready to go on.

I got these springs from Mike at Pushrod Performance - they are a little non-standard, and are designed to virtually eliminate valve bounce.



With new valve guides fitted and fresh valves lapped in (which took an absolute age, but was a satisfying job to do) I could fit the cylinder head.



New pushrod tunnels in stainless steel to replace the beaten up old ones, that had seen a poor chrome job in the past.
I managed to get new old stock angled washers and spacers for the pushrod tunnels - and I went for new o-rings and rubber sleeves, as I think modern rubber is more advanced and less susceptible to cracking and failure.

This section often gets assembled incorrectly on these engines, and you will usually see pushrod singles with oil weeping around the top and base of the tunnels. The main reason is that the modern replacement washers are not angled like they should be, which is why I was so happy to be able to find some NOS ones!



With no head gasket fitted (the two mating surfaces were in perfect condition after a hone on a piece of plate glass) just a liberal application of Wellseal on both surfaces 48 hours before assembly, we could fit the cylinder head and torque it up.



There are a lot of great things about this engine - one of them is that the barrel studs/head bolts are easily accessible, and you can get a decent torque wrench on them without needing any special tools or ground down spanners.
 

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The oil pump and gears were in a bad way.

So I got new gear and three start worm - I had originally planned to fit the six start worm and gear from the commando, but it was too different to be able to modify it to fit.



The worm is left hand thread - the new one was clearly marked, unlike the one i took off!



The oil pump was in a very bad way - having been used to pump a lot of solid lump of metal in the past!!!
the plates were badly scored, there was a huge amount of end float in the gears - both of which can be easily sorted with a few hours of honing on plate glass with some grinding paste.
However - what couldn't be sorted was the damage to the gears themselves - obviously a lot of grit had passed through over the years, and the gears were unfortunately beyond repair.

So i bought a brand new Commando oil pump from Andover Norton, and set about modifying it to fit the single cylinder engine.

The orientation of the pump is the other way round, so it is alas not a straight swap.



I fitted the new pump with bolts instead of studs - the original studs were wrecked beyond recognition, and using bolts instead makes it much easier to assemble.



A couple of months after I rebuilt the oil pump using modified Commando pump parts, Andover started selling brand new pumps for single cylinder engines!
 

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Next job is the rocker box - I love it that this is separate to the cylinder head, and it makes for really easy assembly



A nice coating of Loctite 5699 sealant - we opted for this instead of the paper gasket.
The paper gasket was a really poor fit - usually it's not a problem to trim the edges that hang out after assembly, but in this case some of the holes weren't even in the right place - definitely a case of gaskets made by Stevie Wonder on that one!!!!



The trick with this stuff is not too much - a nice even coating is great, but you don't want so much that it splurges out everyone and blocks internals, and oil holes.



Next was to fit the pushrods.

I bought a pair of pushrods from Norvil, and when they arrived, they were different lengths.

I phoned Norvil and politely asked for a replacement, and after three weeks wait, they sent me a second set (which they charged me postage for)

They were different sizes to the first lot, and the ends were not glued on properly.



I had planned on knocking an end off, cutting the pushrod down to the correct length then refitting, which was when I discovered the rod was solid not tubular.

Solid = Bendy, so not good!!!!
 

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In the end, i got some aluminium HE30 tube, and made the pushrods ourselves.



This time they were the correct length!



I managed to get some New Old Stock ends, and these were glued in place with JB Weld - that stuff is the work of Wizards. Totally Magical!!!
 

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Hang on in there... there will be a dramatic turn of events coming up that will really upset the rivet counters!!!

:twisted:
 
Next job was to fit the timing panel.
Once again, Grey Loctite 5699 to the rescue.
This was applied sparingly, the panel was attached losely and the excess was wiped off.
The screws were then tweaked up once the sealant has set up.



A nice coating of oil around all the bronze bushes helps the panel slide on nicely.
The camshaft that sticks through into the timing case is not scrolled like usual.
That's not an issue though, as i actually want the timing case to be nice and clean and dry.



You'll note also that I blocked up the drain hole - this previously had a piece of pipe connected that 'vented' to the ground - another source of the black drip successfully blocked
 

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