Got it running ! Hard to start

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Nov 20, 2020
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Got my 1970 Norton Roadster running. Thanks to all for your expert help.
Another question - when I shut the engine down for a while it is pretty hard to start again. Suggestions? Advice? Thanks
 

RoadScholar

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When cold clear the clutch, tickle the carbs and bring the engine just over compression; now key in on position and crack the throttle about 3/4 through the k/s stroke. When hot same routine (no need to tickle), but a lot more throttle about 1/2 through the k/s stroke. If you find that the engine is not cold and not hot lightly tickle only one carb.

Please note that you should not surprise the k/s pawl by slamming your weight on the k/s that is sitting on its stop. Instead, while throwing your weight skyward teach your right foot to GENTLY engage the pawl inside the layshaft 1st gear then let your weight have at it.

Best
 

texasSlick

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Unless I missed something, you did not tell us what you did to solve the original issue which was popping in the exhaust when trying to start.

Slick
 

Tornado

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Thanks. Should I look at or adjust the timing, etc?
If you are confidant the static timing is correct for your ign setup (points or EI?), And have verified the primary timing scale readings via a timing wheel disk and piston stop check, then final fine tuning via a timing light check while throttling up to 3-4k rpm, you should be good to go. If you are getting any kickback when trying to kick start, its a good indication you are over advanced, so dial it back a bit.

Next steps are to run it around a while, do some plug condition checks and try the plug chop technique to see if you are over rich or lean. Adjust idle air screws in to richen idle mix, out to lean the idle mix. Change needle clip on throttle slides up/down a notch to richen/lean the mid throttle range.

If you are running chokes on mkI amals, be sure you've got the control lever set fully off once warmed up. That is the position where max cable is pulled through the lever body (it pulls slides fully up into throttle slides, opening the carb throats fully). Note the lever has a friction washer and can slip, letting lever move to slacken cable against choke spring pull, choking the mix while underway. Keep the clamping screw quite tight at lever body. A lot of folks remove choke slides and plug the cable hole in carb top as these can give more troubles than they solve.
 
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Nov 20, 2020
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If you are confidant the static timing is correct for your ign setup (points or EI?), And have verified the primary timing scale readings via a timing wheel disk and piston stop check, then final fine tuning via a timing light check while throttling up to 3-4k rpm, you should be good to go. If you are getting any kickback when trying to kick start, its a good indication you are over advanced, so dial it back a bit.

Next steps are to run it around a while, do some plug condition checks and try the plug chop technique to see if you are over rich or lean. Adjust idle air screws in to richen idle mix, out to lean the idle mix. Change needle clip on throttle slides up/down a notch to richen/lean the mid throttle range.

If you are running chokes on mkI amals, be sure you've got the control lever set fully off once warmed up. That is the position where max cable is pulled through the lever body (it pulls slides fully up into throttle slides, opening the carb throats fully). Note the lever has a friction washer and can slip, letting lever move to slacken cable against choke spring pull, choking the mix while underway. Keep the clamping screw quite tight at lever body. A lot of folks remove choke slides and plug the cable hole in carb top as these can give more troubles than they solve.
Thanks so much. Will get on it tomorrow.
 
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