fuel filters etc

jan nelder

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Before I start checking, any tips on inspecting the tank to EFI route for fuel? ( I had another engine stoppage yesterday after 3 miles, and after bike not being ridden for a year, with a momentary cut out a mile before that. Wouldn’t restart at all, with good cranking speed etc.)
I have visually checked all the fuses, after the ECU one went last year, also on the way to the annual test.
For UK readers, the RAC refused to do a free recovery , as it had no MOT, so had to pay £90. I have just started a complaint with them......
 
So now it has been recovered back home does it start? If not then statement of the obvious is fuel pump running?

As an aside so will the RAC refuse to recover an MOT-exempt classic vehicle?
 
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Clive said:
As an aside so will the RAC refuse to recover an MOT-exempt classic vehicle?
Click to expand...
Their Ts&Cs state:

“vehicle” means a UK registered vehicle that is
privately owned or leased and complies with the
following specifications:
1. It is insured, and holds valid tax and MOT (unless
exempt);
 
Clive said:
So now it has been recovered back home does it start? If not then statement of the obvious is fuel pump running?

As an aside so will the RAC refuse to recover an MOT-exempt classic vehicle?
Click to expand...
won’t start. I can here the pump when ignition is switched on. guess I can disconnect outlet and put a pipe on it and see flow/ state of fuel.
 
You will probably have done this but check you have enough new fuel; if it’s been in the tank for a year it would probably be sensible to refill with new E5. Is the battery fully charged? Do you have a spark on both plugs? I found my left hand plug failed almost every year. If you have a spark is fuel getting to the cylinders? Is the air filter blocked? Has oil blown back into the airbox? Is the side stand cut off switch cutting the engine?
My apologies if you have checked all of the above but it tends to be something simple….good luck!
 
Hello Agree with all of Lincolnshire Poacher . Check for spark first both plugs. The fuel filter is in the gas tank with the fuel pump . You need to make up a section of hose with the Dorman fuel connector on it attach this to the pump and the othe end of the hose to the fuel pressure guage .

From Manual :

 Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal).
 Attach extension cable to pump electrical connection, and wiring harness.
 Attach inline pressure tester to pump and throttle bodies.
 Place the pressure gauge in a visible position with the fuel tank upright on a flat surface, with a soft cloth to stop paintwork damage.
 Start the motorcycle and observe the fuel pressure.
Fuel Pressure Nominal: 3 Bar (43.5 PSI)
 
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To be honest if a bike comes to me with those sort of concerns, my first port of call is not to start diagnosing it systemically....but to just chuck parts at it. Every bike I see, I always strongly recommend we replace the known shite parts ie relays, cam sensor, head temp, coil pack as and where required. So instead of charging for diag, I fit those parts first....usually it sorts it out and we're away again and I've not wasted the customers money. Occasionally though they require more effort, but those parts I'd already fitted would have been recommended at some point regardless.
 
with side stand up and clutch held in with cable tie, and spare plug held on LHS of cylinder head, fully charged battery, no sign of a spark. Next step is to check each fuse for continuity.
 
all fuses under seat checked and OK on a multimeter.
Question 1: I noticed the bike would TURN OVER on the starter when on the sidestand. Is this correct?
Question 2: The micro switches on the clutch and sidestand: in order to START the bike, are these electrical contacts open or closed? ( the wiring diagram has all such switches shown ‘open’)
Thanks in advance.
 
jan nelder said:
all fuses under seat checked and OK on a multimeter.
Question 1: I noticed the bike would TURN OVER on the starter when on the sidestand. Is this correct?
Question 2: The micro switches on the clutch and sidestand: in order to START the bike, are these electrical contacts open or closed? ( the wiring diagram has all such switches shown ‘open’)
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
The engine won't turn over if the clutch switch is not working. Does your bike have a tip-over switch? Every no spark except one we have seen has been an ECU issue. THe ECU needs a signal from both the cam and crank sensors to send a trigger to the coil. The cam sensor is easy to replace as its in the front of the engine. The crank sensor is attached to the stator within the primary and is easy to replace as well. Both of these can be troubleshot as well.

And Stu is correct. At the minimum, start with all known good replacement relays, and go from there
 
TonyA said:
Hello Agree with all of Lincolnshire Poacher . Check for spark first both plugs. The fuel filter is in the gas tank with the fuel pump . You need to make up a section of hose with the Dorman fuel connector on it attach this to the pump and the othe end of the hose to the fuel pressure guage .

From Manual :

 Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal).
 Attach extension cable to pump electrical connection, and wiring harness.
 Attach inline pressure tester to pump and throttle bodies.
 Place the pressure gauge in a visible position with the fuel tank upright on a flat surface, with a soft cloth to stop paintwork damage.
 Start the motorcycle and observe the fuel pressure.
Fuel Pressure Nominal: 3 Bar (43.5 PSI)
Click to expand...

Tony is correct about testing for pressure but since you can't start again, as Tony stated spark is important. also, its a minor pain to do pressure testing. There are two types of tests. One is static. You can buy a cheap fuel pressure test kit at whatever your version of Harbor Freight is. A simple line and gauge will tell you the output.

The method Tony is showing you is what pressure is running while the motor is running. This test is good for off-idle issues and will tell if the fuel regulator is doing its job. That can be done with the same kit but making up a dummy fuel line with a tee fitting that can be run between the tank and fuel rail

If you just want to confirm flow just attach a hose to the red fitting on the tank and the other end in a jar. While holding the hose in place turn on the ignition, and you will get fuel flow for a second and turn off the ignition. Even if you had low pressure, the bike would start just with what it pushed into the intake under normal conditions. it will idle but won't rev out under low pressure if you had a spark. No spark is a whole other thing

If you don't want to do that the fuel rail is attached by two screws. Remove those, lift up the rail and place the shop towel underneath, and turn on the ignition. fuel should flow for a second into the shop towel

If you do all this while smoking, or near open flames, etc then you won't need to worry about your issues.

Find your nonspark issue before you go to fuel.
 
Stu Bodycote said:
To be honest if a bike comes to me with those sort of concerns, my first port of call is not to start diagnosing it systemically....but to just chuck parts at it. Every bike I see, I always strongly recommend we replace the known shite parts ie relays, cam sensor, head temp, coil pack as and where required. So instead of charging for diag, I fit those parts first....usually it sorts it out and we're away again and I've not wasted the customers money. Occasionally though they require more effort, but those parts I'd already fitted would have been recommended at some point regardless.
Click to expand...
We don't strongly recommend it we demand it. We won't work on or warranty anything unless the usual has been changed/upgraded. We also will have the ECU unlocked or replaced with the 400 now that we have got some good maps from SCS. The SCS typhoon is actually a good ECU when unlocked.
 
jan nelder said:
Question 2: The micro switches on the clutch and sidestand: in order to START the bike, are these electrical contacts open or closed? ( the wiring diagram has all such switches shown ‘open’)
Click to expand...
Clutch switch must be closed to start. The side stand switch must be closed when you go into gear .
 
the 2 relays under the seat: currently have blue ones with ‘O/E/N’ and 730-1C-1201-DT code. How to unplug them, as something seems very firmly stopping them??
 
Hi Jan , I am not aware of any clips holding the relays in . When you say under the seat is this in the fuse box ?
 
not in fuse box. there are two relays which sit inside rubber holders to stop them rattling around. Pulling them hard results in no movement at all towards coming away from the wiring loom.
 
jan nelder said:
not in fuse box. there are two relays which sit inside rubber holders to stop them rattling around. Pulling them hard results in no movement at all towards coming away from the wiring loom.
Click to expand...
Can you pull the rubber holders back and make sure of no clips holding them. Are you holding the socket back while you pull the relay ? If all else fails , take the battery out and use a small screwdriver to pry the relay away from the socket.
 
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