Although I will continue to look for a good used front wheel rim/hub/spokes assy, I still haven't totally given up on getting a new rim and spoke set and lacing it up to my existing hub myself. I've done considerable research for a video of lacing up a wheel rim to a hub that is Norton specific, but have yet to find one. Can any member here tell me if there is such a video. I do find videos that are generic but don't know if those would apply to the Norton. My bike has the original TLS drum brake. Can someone tell if there is a Norton wheel specific video, and if there is one how to find it.
Front wheel lacing
- Thread starter quawk
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2012
- Messages
- 14,004
Drilling the rim is the only difficult part. The spoke angles. If the rim is predrilled for equal sized flanges on the hub, the job is easier when you have that sort of hub. If the hub is unequal, I would get the rim drilled by a wheel-builder. The angles are tricky.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2018
- Messages
- 1,229
obviously you need a good photo to show lacing pattern, as long as it is the correct version! Buchanan might have one.
Shelby-Right
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2022
- Messages
- 744
I talked to a rim and spoke guy and he said norton front rims are one of the harder ones , his tip for me was get the offset and truing done on the big spokes , disc side, then go around and do the other side , pretty sure that's what he said , couple of years back.
- Joined
- May 7, 2005
- Messages
- 7,158
Drum not disc, so an easy rim to true as spokes are much the same length both sides.
RGM have the offsets
and for a front wheel once trued to published offset then mount on the bike without tyre and do a final true to centralise between the fork lowers.
Mart UK
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2021
- Messages
- 1,294
I didn't find a video a couple of years ago. I received great advice here: https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/front-wheel.34609/
As you can see, I was very nervous about lacing my own front wheel. I managed it and I'm about 3,000miles further on, with no problems.
As you can see, I was very nervous about lacing my own front wheel. I managed it and I'm about 3,000miles further on, with no problems.
acadian
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2010
- Messages
- 1,446
Don't overthink it IMO, as Kommando noted the spokes will be the same length for both sides, just make sure you separate outer from inner spokes. Make sure you find the correct key spoke to start with (the first inner spoke lined up to the correct hole on rim), then it's simply a matter of following the pattern starting with the inners on both side. You'll see on the OldBritts page that the inners are spaced every 4 holes. You'll know if you have hit the right holes once you got all the inners loosely installed with each spoke showing approx 1/4" of their threads in the hub
I wouldn't even consider purchasing an undrilled rim.
As I mentioned in my original post, I have the drum brake wheel.
Mart UK, so after all the responses and feedback you received from your linked thread, you went ahead and did it yourself? Good for you. I, of course, don't want to get into a situation I can't get out of, but hearing that gives me a bit more confidence I'd be capable of accomplishing this.
Am I misunderstanding you or may you have misspoken, as the threaded end of the spoke would be in the rim and not the hub, correct?
Mart UK
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2021
- Messages
- 1,294
Ultimately, it isn't that difficult, provided you get the right rim, spoke pattern and offset spec and enough patience to walk away for a break, when you start to have a difficulty. That is where I am indebted to the forum and especially @Lab.
I used a standard spoke wrench tool. I set the offset on the floor, using some wooden spacers under the rim, to drop the hub enough. I did my best to set the offset with the spokes only at hand tight.
To true the wheel, I set the hub up with its bearings in the axle. I held the axle in my vice soft jaws. The vice jaws rotated 90degs, so the wheel spun in front of my workbench. I then placed a ruler on the bench and used it as a tell-tale for side and vertical truing. Occasionally taking the wheel off to check the offset and a soft mallet to gently re-set it.
I've done a Honda rear wheel since.
The main and significant problem is afterwards, trying not to bore everyone with how clever you are. Damn, failed again!
I used a standard spoke wrench tool. I set the offset on the floor, using some wooden spacers under the rim, to drop the hub enough. I did my best to set the offset with the spokes only at hand tight.
To true the wheel, I set the hub up with its bearings in the axle. I held the axle in my vice soft jaws. The vice jaws rotated 90degs, so the wheel spun in front of my workbench. I then placed a ruler on the bench and used it as a tell-tale for side and vertical truing. Occasionally taking the wheel off to check the offset and a soft mallet to gently re-set it.
I've done a Honda rear wheel since.
The main and significant problem is afterwards, trying not to bore everyone with how clever you are. Damn, failed again!
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2006
- Messages
- 753
..and I wouldn’t even consider purchasing a drilled rim.
This is something that, at this point is somewhat confusing and I've asked about in other posts, but the reference to offset. I assume in your statement your talking getting the hub centered laterally in the rim or vice versa. In other words what your talking about is done because the hub is wider than the rim, correct? Offset, in my mind, means the rim sits to the right or left of center of the vertical centerline of the hub. As I've been told in past postings, the disc rim is offset from the hub centerline somewhat, but the drum rim runs centered on the hub, in other words, the rims outside edges, for a drum brake rim, should be equidistant from each fork leg. Hope I'm explaining my understanding here.
It seems to me that drilling something as oddly shaped as a wheel rim accurately in your own home shop, and getting the hole spacing and angles correct, would be difficult, if not impossible. For the difference in price I'd think having it drilled by the wheel builder would be better.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2006
- Messages
- 753
It is not so difficult as it may seem. All you need is a tall enough drill press with an inclinable table and a little imagination to support the rim. Set it at the correct angle , 2xL and 2xR. Spacing is taken care of by the dimples. A somewhat time consuming but rewarding job.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 20,415
Yes, the disc hub is considerably offset from the rim (see picture). The drum rim will be less so or perhaps not at all. I suggest you take your own measurements that positions the rim in the centre of the forks.
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2011
- Messages
- 47
Some pretty good info here: https://vintagebikemagazine.com/technical-articles/lacing-norton-front-disc-rim-06-1951/
Not only are the disc-side spokes a heavier gauge, but the front rim is handed, the spoke holes are angled slightly different on the disc side. I got my wheel backwards the first try. Ready to start truing it, I noticed some of the spokes were curved in the center, take it all apart and start over.
Not only are the disc-side spokes a heavier gauge, but the front rim is handed, the spoke holes are angled slightly different on the disc side. I got my wheel backwards the first try. Ready to start truing it, I noticed some of the spokes were curved in the center, take it all apart and start over.
Last edited:
acadian
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2010
- Messages
- 1,446
correct, I meant to say the rim
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2018
- Messages
- 1,229
…and with the correct axle spacers in position first!Yes, the disc hub is considerably offset from the rim (see picture). The drum rim will be less so or perhaps not at all. I suggest you take your own measurements that positions the rim in the centre of the forks.
