Front drum brake light switch ?

gjr

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'70 Commando
I just replaced the front brake cable because the brake light wasn't coming on. The new Andover Norton cable takes a very firm squeeze to get the brake light to come on. Very firm. Got any ideas for a better set up ? I still have the stock (brass ?) perches and the stamped steel levers.
Thanks
Greg
 
I got rid of the cable switch - copied others and made this... Dec 28, 2021
Also makes the feel of the brake more positive.
Got the switch from Venhill
Cheers
 
Last edited:
'70 Commando
I just replaced the front brake cable because the brake light wasn't coming on. The new Andover Norton cable takes a very firm squeeze to get the brake light to come on. Very firm. Got any ideas for a better set up ? I still have the stock (brass ?) perches and the stamped steel levers.
Thanks
Greg
I put a new AN cable on my 1970 Commando and it doesn't seem to need a lot of pressure to get the light to come on. I did lube the cable with aerosol silicone grease before I installed it, that could make a difference. And the cable was a bit too long for my bars, so had to reroute it because there was so much stiction that the brake didn't disengage. Odd, because the AN clutch cable is a bit short, and I'm pretty sure the bars are symmetrical !
 
'70 Commando
I just replaced the front brake cable because the brake light wasn't coming on. The new Andover Norton cable takes a very firm squeeze to get the brake light to come on. Very firm. Got any ideas for a better set up ? I still have the stock (brass ?) perches and the stamped steel levers.
Thanks
Greg
Try taking up some slack at the lever and giving a little more at the brake. Sounds like the balance is wrong at the two ends for the switch to operate correctly.
 
Ditch the switch altogether. I put a Venhill cable with switch on mine and never had a good feel or brake action. Besides, on a drum braked Norton how often do you use the front brake alone? Just a slight touch of the rear pedal puts the brake light on.
 
Ditch the switch altogether. I put a Venhill cable with switch on mine and never had a good feel or brake action. Besides, on a drum braked Norton how often do you use the front brake alone? Just a slight touch of the rear pedal puts the brake light on.
The rear drum brake is so poor on most British bikes that generally don't bother with it. Also, in many states that do inspections it will fail if the front brake doesn't light the brake light. In VA I certainly wouldn't slow down quickly in front of a State cop with no brake light - if your lucky he'll be in a hurry and just write a warning ticket for defective equipment, but it could go way worse...
 
How does changing the position of the adjusters affect the switch ? The cable is 'suspended' between both adjusters and pulling the outers together activates the switch. Not that I won't try it.
Not having a front brake switch is the problem I'm trying to solve. Drivers don't seem to paying much attention anymore.
 
How does changing the position of the adjusters affect the switch ? The cable is 'suspended' between both adjusters and pulling the outers together activates the switch. Not that I won't try it.
Not having a front brake switch is the problem I'm trying to solve. Drivers don't seem to paying much attention anymore.
It sounds like you are "hanging" on the switch. The switch need a very slight movement to close. If you're having to move the level a long way (squeeze hard) then it's likely that the balance between the top and bottom is wrong. I don't do front drums on Norton much. but most Triumphs and BSAs I've worked on have the same problem until the upper and lower portions of the cable are balanced for the switch and all I've seen use the same switch.
 
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