Front Brake Lever Stuck

Captain Connor · Mar 25, 2013

Hello all. I am new to this site, it looks like a wealth of information, so thank you all for contributing. I have a 1972 750 commando that i've owned several years. Its been off the road for 3-4 years now and i'm starting to tinker with it in hopes of getting her fired up once again.

My front brake lever is currently stuck and I was wondering if anyone would be able to offer any advice on how to tackle the problem. The lever wont depress when squeezed.

Thanks!

Captain Connor

(p.s. i'll work on getting some pics up soon)

concours · Mar 25, 2013

Welcome Capt. Connor, Disconnect the cable. Brake arm froze? Cable?

850cmndo · Mar 25, 2013

Disc or otherwise?

Hobot · Mar 25, 2013

If still factory and master cylinder not gone through in some time the raw steel piston can rust up and score bore into striction, similar can occur at the caliper pucks stuck by corrosion too, but they would not trap lever action, just pad retraction. Its possible to screw the pivot bolt down enough to pinch level especially if a mirror shaft instead of factory piivot bolt. If piston the reason it can be a bugger to get out and hope bore surface still good as the piston can be really bad looking as the seal is on the o-rings. Always put in SS versions for the next guy a few decades from now. Red hot nail poke out tiny restrictor hole in the rubber boot 'valve' for rather better brake feel & effect per effort applied.

swooshdave · Mar 25, 2013

Unless upgraded :mrgreen: it will be a drum.

BillT · Mar 25, 2013

swooshdave said:
Unless upgraded :mrgreen: it will be a drum.

What about Combats? :mrgreen:

850cmndo · Mar 25, 2013

BillT said:
swooshdave said:

Unless upgraded :mrgreen: it will be a drum.

Click to expand...

What about Combats? :mrgreen:

My thought.

kevbo82 · Mar 25, 2013

BillT said:
swooshdave said:

Unless upgraded :mrgreen: it will be a drum.

Click to expand...

What about Combats? :mrgreen:

beat me to that by 6 mins :wink:

batrider · Mar 25, 2013

Ah so.

Captain Connor · Mar 27, 2013

Thanks all for the replies. I think what I have to do is bleed the rotor. It is a disc brake up front and I bet that the pistons are stuck. I'm hoping I dont need to replace them. I'll get time this weekend to check it out and will try and post an update.

C

concours · Mar 27, 2013

Rebuild kits for the caliper are just a few seals, the pistons are available seperately, a few more bucks. In order to get those pistons out, you'll need a special pin spanner, leave the caliper bolted to the fork leg for holding and HEAT the caliper to allow drama free dismantling the caliper.
The master has many more options... rebuild as stock if the bore is good, have it sleeved smaller to freshen AND gain braking mechanical advantage.

http://www.oldbritts.com has everything you need.

kevbo82 · Mar 27, 2013

concours said:
Rebuild kits for the caliper are just a few seals, the pistons are available seperately, a few more bucks. In order to get those pistons out, you'll need a special pin spanner, leave the caliper bolted to the fork leg for holding and HEAT the caliper to allow drama free dismantling the caliper.
The master has many more options... rebuild as stock if the bore is good, have it sleeved smaller to freshen AND gain braking mechanical advantage.

http://www.oldbritts.com has everything you need.

I got one of these from harbor freight and it worked well for opening it up
http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable ... 36554.html

kettle738 · Mar 28, 2013

Red hot nail poke out tiny restrictor hole in the rubber boot 'valve' for rather better brake feel & effect per effort applied.

That caught my eye, I'm just interested to know exactly what that means and what is achieved.

Can anyone educate me please?

Mick..........kettle738

madass140 · Mar 28, 2013

ask Hobot

concours · Mar 28, 2013

kevbo82 said:
concours said:

Rebuild kits for the caliper are just a few seals, the pistons are available seperately, a few more bucks. In order to get those pistons out, you'll need a special pin spanner, leave the caliper bolted to the fork leg for holding and HEAT the caliper to allow drama free dismantling the caliper.
The master has many more options... rebuild as stock if the bore is good, have it sleeved smaller to freshen AND gain braking mechanical advantage.

http://www.oldbritts.com has everything you need.

Click to expand...

I got one of these from harbor freight and it worked well for opening it up
http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable ... 36554.html

CHEAP ENOUGH! Good job! I had adjustable pin spanners on hand already, so used that as well.

Front Brake Lever Stuck

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