Flood Victim

Yessir, have a couple of cans on the shelf. As you have stated previously, its a great product and a near perfect match for Olde English Blaque.:cool:
 
This morning, I decided to get the fuel system assembled. I had disassembled the Amals previously, soaked them in B-12 Chemtool for a few days and then let them drip dry. The B-12 left a powdery residue (probably from biting into the metal) that I cleaned up as well as possible at the time.

So I had decided they might need further cleaning with carb cleaner. There was also still a significant amount of water scale in the bowls and top of the float chambers. I used a common household cleaning product, Limeaway, on the scale. I noticed a lot of dirt (or B-12 residue?) was coming off the parts, so time for a thorough cleaning. rags and Q-tips blackened and a pan of black slop and I think they're actually clean. And I gave the passages a shot of carb cleaner to make sure I didn't leave any crap forced in by cleaning. It made the brass parts shiny and clean, too. I used the slop to soak the small parts.
 
Looking good! The cleanup was the hard part.
Suggest you use a non-hardening sealant between the carb and manifold joint, and both sides of the heat insulator gasket.
Air leaks at these joints are too easy to get.
Have you got a #2 Pozidriv screwdriver? They really help getting the proper torque feel on the top and bowl screws.
This photo shows a modified Philips on the left and #2 Pozi on the right.
The difference in feeling the torque is very noticeable.
Flood Victim
 
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The Posi looks pointier. I think I have one like that.

I normally paint the heat insulators with silver aluminized paint. Makes a good seal and hides the insulators.
 
Included in the overhaul kits (Old Britts/Andover) were some fiber gaskets seen in the upper right of the last pic. Same material as float bowl gaskets and obviously intended for the engine side of the tapered intake manifolds. If used, which side of the fiber heat insulators? Also noticed looking at the exploded parts drawing, my ham can doesn't have the shroud shown on the inside of the battery side of the can.
 
Looking good. Hopefully it will fire first kick! ;-)

Did you end up using the extra gaskets on the manifold? If so, where did you put them, on the manifold side of the insulators?
 
Thanks, Gents.

I did not use the gaskets. Figured they were Triumph kit or such. None on the SS clone and it seems ok.
 
I tried to stay as close to stock as possible and use as many original parts as would be serviceable. Stainless bolts and nuts replace the original chrome front mudguard fasteners and the side and centerstand fasteners are stainless. The exhaust crossover bolts are stainless as are the bolts that sandwich the ham can. The rest of the hardware is original or stock replacement where original parts were too badly rusted to use. Quite a few things such as the front brake light switch and the headlight bucket came from my bonepile, so some parts are actually older than the machine. The rear lenses are repros. The rear brake cable is Barnett. Everything was done in my garage except the cylinder boring, the vapor blasting of the head and the resurfacing of the front rotor (DBR, of course) Pistons are Emgo with Hastings rings. Pipes are used originals and the mufflers are Campbells. The exhaust has the most "patina" of anything on the bike. Most of the gaskets, seals and replacement parts came from Old Britts, but I also patronized Commando Specialties, The Bonneville Shop, MAP Cycle, Hokanson Racing, and Steadfast Cycles. The more of these folks that stay in business, the easier it will be for the rest of us to source needed parts at reasonable prices. Various small bits were sourced from private sellers on Fleabay, mostly used parts that weren't rusted like the originals. Got a Boyer, some free spoke nipples and a couple of other things from members here.
 
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