The timing plug is lined up with the flywheel. Subjected to street type use and rpm, and with a stock crank with full circle flywheel, the timing plug will work ok, because the full circle flywheel doesn't throw a lot of oil at reasonable rpm. On the other hand, as I said, I used this in a race bike, and I had the pork chop Nourish crank, which acted like an efficient paddle wheel to pump oil out the timing plug vent. Not only that, the bike was shifted, every shift, every few seconds, above 7000 rpm, and that timing plug vent setup simply won't work for that kind of use. Mine always filled a one quart catch bottle in 5 minutes so I had to move the vent elsewhere.
As to the breather on the timing cover, I used the 90 degree breather fitting from the primary side, welded onto the timing cover and pointed up, with the vent hole at the very end of the exhaust cam. There is a picture up above of a breather welded on directly in line with the outer circumference of the cam gear. There is a fair amount of oil following the gear set around in the timing cover. At high rpm and high temps, the cam gear will sling oil directly off it, and that may be why it would not work for you. I put mine directly over the end of the exhaust cam pointed up, with the vent at the center of the cam gear, where it would not sling oil, not at the circumference, and it worked fine, with a 3/4 inch vent line routed like yours, up and over to a catch bottle behind the left shock. I ran mine open, because several racers I knew who put reed valves in said they constricted the flow too much and led to problems. But again, race use is quite different than street use, and for instance I now use a one way valve on my Norton street bike and it works just fine. I also tried putting a long spring up the vent line to discourage oil flow, but it didn't seem to make much difference. It did seem to like about 8 inches of vertical in the line, before the line angled over to the left side of the bike, to discourage oil in the catch bottle.
