ever had this happen?

clutch basket with the thick bottom plate held in by 4 roll pins.
one roll pin begins to work it's way out and begins to tear up the aluminum Barnett plate like it's a milling cutter. Aluminum particles everywhere.

seattle##gs said:

4 roll pins.

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Normally 2 roll pins.

seattle##gs said:

one roll pin begins to work it's way out and begins to tear up the aluminum Barnett plate like it's a milling cutter. Aluminum particles everywhere.

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Probably one of the reasons why later back plates were riveted.

definitely 4 pins in this one. If I can figure a way to lock them in permanently it is still a good basket. I replaced it with the riveted variety.

seattle##gs said:

definitely 4 pins in this one. If I can figure a way to lock them in permanently it is still a good basket. I replaced it with the riveted variety.

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It is normally an easy fix if worn with oversize 3.5 mm roll pins to replace the stock 1/8" / 3.175 mm items , clamp the plate at installation and Loctite.

This is a repaired early basket, good for another 50 years.

Roll pin basket.


Rivet basket (which has the early plate anyway)

Time Warp said:

It is normally an easy fix if worn with oversize 3.5 mm roll pins to replace the stock 1/8" / 3.175 mm items , clamp the plate at installation and Loctite.

This is a repaired early basket, good for another 50 years.
View attachment 79761
Roll pin basket.
View attachment 79759

Rivet basket (which has the early plate anyway)
View attachment 79760

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Hi This happened to my 1969 F/B many years ago before computers made parts easy to find. I just put the plate in the correct position using the old roll pins ( you can`t drill through the basket easily as the back/outside is flame hardened and will destroy your drill bit trying to break through) clamped it with 3 good boilermaker clamps and put 3 welding tacks on the inside (just little ones) ,placed it in a 3 jaw chuck in the lathe and skimmed it with a boring bar almost flush (just leaving a witness mark). I doubt i removed any more than 0.004 thou off. Still good 30 plus years on. Cheers.

Why not use the holes to locate the plate and J-B weld it on. with proper surface prep it would be easy. Cleaned and roughened surfaces with J-B weld ( not the quick setting type) will hold up to oil and the small amount of heat the drum will get to.

When I was drag racing I had a broken away plate, at a bout 90 MPH the My S model was going into a high speed wobble. Luckily I over heard another racer talking about a wobble he had and he said it was due to his clutch being out of balance, So I picked up on the info and had it welded it in. But It is hard to do with the limited room and dealing with the hardened materials.

I use J-B on all sorts of things and save time and money on the repairs. And it works like a champ. . Carl H

It looks doable. I certainly won't throw it away.

What ever you do don't bodge it with JB Weld, all you need is new roll pins. (stock or oversize)

There are a lot of riveted baskets out there (I have 3) for sale. I would update that so you aren't forced to fix it when you don't want to!

Time Warp said:

What ever you do don't bodge it with JB Weld, all you need is new roll pins. (stock or oversize)

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" ...... all you need is new roll pins. (stock or oversize)" , and red Loctite. If they ever need to be removed, heat to 450F and tap out.

I've got maybe 6 more baskets on the shelf, probably last me a lifetime.