Ethanol Fuel Resistant Adhesive

jms

jms

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Last question for today😁The gas tank that I am using on my Atlas build is a Dunstall fiberglass tank. I recently cleaned and sealed it with Caswell. Its pretty cool looking and large.The Ceadness cap that was on it was fastened to the bung and built into the fiberglass resin all as on operation. The tank had a deep well around the bung so the end result was that the cap was seriously recessed in the well making pulling the pin to remove the cap impossible. The bung was quite old and rusted as well. I was able to remove everything without damaging the tank. What was left was a steel ring cast into the fiberglass. Luck would have it that I was able to get from Ceadness a bung that sits perfectly into the existing steel sleeve. I know this question will precipitate all sorts of recommendations but here it goes. I need an adhesive that has a proven history of being gasoline and ethanol proof as welding obviosly isn’t an option. Thanks in advance
 
What about JB Weld? It seems to be impervious to all things...
A good friend of mine once claimed that only 2 good things came out of America - JB Weld and Duct tape :)
He is not into Nortons and so does not know of cNw, JS Motorsport, et al.
 
SteveBorland said:
What about JB Weld? It seems to be impervious to all things...
A good friend of mine once claimed that only 2 good things came out of America - JB Weld and Duct tape :)
He is not into Nortons and so does not know of cNw, JS Motorsport, et al.
Click to expand...
I think JB weld would be an excellant choice.
www.jbweld.com

Automotive

Helping you with all your automotive repair
www.jbweld.com www.jbweld.com
I would probably use this. However, I haven't done it in this application. so do your research.
www.jbweld.com

J-B Weld Twin Tube

J-B Weld is The Original Cold Weld two-part epoxy system that provides strong, lasting repairs to metal and multiple surfaces.
www.jbweld.com www.jbweld.com

Your friend left off WD-40.....😀
 
I read that JB Weld failures exposed to Ethanol are well documented. I searched the internet and didn't find that. I know that they make the claim that it is fuel resistant but I'm not sure what that exactly means
 
Caveat regarding this answer is I'm a barn yard shade tree creative mechanic, and don't follow other people's rules well. :)

I use JB Weld on the intake side of my Norton head inside the ports and in the manifolds. Premium pump gas fuel flows over the JB Weld every time I start the engine. I don't use ethanol free fuel. All that happens to the JB Weld is it changes color. The parts are not emersed in raw fuel 24/7 though.

That tank sealer might/could probably work as well, but you would have to leave it to dry for 3 days or more before touching it.

That joint won't be immersed in fuel anyway, will it?

You would need a way to keep the bung positioned if it doesn't have a lip on it. Without a lip on the bung, it would slide right into the tank using JB Weld or the tank sealer before either product setup.
 
Schwany said:
Caveat regarding this answer is I'm a barn yard shade tree creative mechanic, and don't follow other people's rules well. :)

I use JB Weld on the intake side of my Norton head inside the ports and in the manifolds. Premium pump gas fuel flows over the JB Weld every time I start the engine. I don't use ethanol free fuel. All that happens to the JB Weld is it changes color. The parts are not emersed in raw fuel 24/7 though.

That tank sealer might/could probably work as well, but you would have to leave it to dry for 3 days or more before touching it.

That joint won't be immersed in fuel anyway, will it?

You would need a way to keep the bung positioned if it doesn't have a lip on it. Without a lip on the bung, it would slide right into the tank using JB Weld or the tank sealer before either product setup.
Click to expand...
I’ll post a picture shortly. Correct it wouldn’t be immersed all of the time. There is a lip. If I let it set up a bit it would stay in place I think. Then there is the putty?
 
About a 1/16" clearance all around so if the mix is set up enough I doubt it will flow
 

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How about fibre glassing it in, or at least just the resin.
When I worked in mc part supplier we used 2 part epoxy to secure monza caps onto alloy tanks, worked well and lasted.
 
jms said:
I read that JB Weld failures exposed to Ethanol are well documented. I searched the internet and didn't find that. I know that they make the claim that it is fuel resistant but I'm not sure what that exactly means
Click to expand...
I "temporary"repaired a corroded through sediment bowl on a Yamaha petcock, so I could get the engine running, verify it was a worthy project.
I bought new petcocks once I found them. But never installed them.
It was full of E10 for 12 years and still perfectly fine when I sold the bike.
 
concours said:
I "temporary"repaired a corroded through sediment bowl on a Yamaha petcock, so I could get the engine running, verify it was a worthy project.
I bought new petcocks once I found them. But never installed them.
It was full of E10 for 12 years and still perfectly fine when I sold the bike.
Click to expand...
Good to know. Was it the original two part gray JB?
 
jms said:
About a 1/16" clearance all around so if the mix is set up enough I doubt it will flow
Click to expand...
Got a link to that drop in neck part?

I have a cap that leaks when I brake hard. I don't fill my tank all the way. I leave about 1.5" of an air gap.

I know what I would do to make that work, but I actually can't explain it very well. I think my brain may have gone into a false neutral.
 
Schwany said:
Got a link to that drop in neck part?

I have a cap that leaks when I brake hard. I don't fill my tank all the way. I leave about 1.5" of an air gap.

I know what I would do to make that work, but I actually can't explain it very well. I think my brain may have gone into a false neutral.
Click to expand...
Sure I’ll find it for you
 
jms said:
Sure I’ll find it for you
Click to expand...
Schwany said:
Got a link to that drop in neck part?

I have a cap that leaks when I brake hard. I don't fill my tank all the way. I leave about 1.5" of an air gap.

I know what I would do to make that work, but I actually can't explain it very well. I think my brain may have gone into a false neutral.
Click to expand...

Shop Ceandess - Fuel Cap Supplier and Manufacturers

Shop Ceandess, Fuel Cap Suppliers. All manufacturing and supply is carried out by Ceandess, part of the Midlands metal engineering industry.
ceandess.com ceandess.com
 
Any epoxy product will be very fuel resistant. JB Weld is epoxy. If the fitting is to be permanent, never needing removal again, then I'd go with the slow-setting (3 hour) type epoxy...not the quick 5 minute stuff. Be sure to mix extremely well...at least 2-3 minutes thorough mixing is best. Clean the fixture surfaces with something like brake cleaner and/or Isopropanol (rubbing alcohol). Acetone is better to clean surfaces as long as paint work is protected (use sparingly on a dampened rag). For metal, best to pre-roughen the surfaces with emery paper to help make good "keying" effect.

If the part may need removal in future, then I'd go with Loctite 515 gasket maker....it is very fuel resistant and will permit removal with some heating if needed.
 
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