EMGO FUEL TANK, CAP MOUNTING PROBLEM

Status
Not open for further replies.
olympus

olympus

Joined
Aug 5, 2017
Messages
1,400
Country flag
Hi Guys
just collected my new Emgo painted fuel tank and just about to fit a new genuine Ceandass fuel cap.
Question.. is the roll pin a interference fit in the cap or in the central boss in the tank??
My thoughts is for the pin to be tight in the cap and a sliding fit in the tank boss ... the only problem is that the pin will not slide through the centre boss it will need to be driven home
Can i have conformation on the above and what hole diameters should be in both elements as i need to check this before attempting to drive in the pin

Thank you
 
Dunno what the hole size is, but the pin should be tight in the cap.
 
Can't confirm the measurements I'm afraid, Malcolm, but CAN confirm it is a royal PITA getting that pin in. Plenty of masking/padding needed to protect all painted/plated surfaces...
(I had the exact same combination, and as noted, the pin is tight in the cap)
 
i took a little teeny weeny drill bit in dremel and after carefully masking area gave hole a tiny ream and tried pin and did this several times til i got a nice tight fit but little/no beating required to insert
 
i used the care of a brain surgeon when i did it tank had just had expensive paint so i did not have any ale before starting procedure
 
I know what your saying... its a new Emgo tank & £400 pain job so real care is needed... only wish i's have tried the roll pin before it was painted:(
 
I used a long socket extension as a drift to tap the pin through both cap and ta nk boss. That way no hammer head near tank surface. I'd pre+started pin into one side of cap before placing over boss. Took a. Bit of time but it worked well. This was not EMGO tank but I have head the boss is a standard part, not custom made to differing spec. Cap was an original Ceandass but old.
 
Squeeze the pin in a vice a bit at time to make it smaller in diameter. Try it each time through the cap until it it snug but not loose. Mask the paint to prevent scratching.
 
I have an original Roadster fuel tank and checking the hinge hole size the closest drill size would be a number 20. That makes sense in that the roll pin is for a 5/32 hole and a number 20 hole is just a little bit bigger than a 5/32. If it were me I would try cleaning out the hole with a number 21 drill and if that isn't quite big enough, finish it off with a number 20 drill. A long extension drill (spar drill) is the drill of choice. I happen to have a whole bunch of them because I used them frequently in aircraft sheet metal work.

Peter Joe
 
PeterJoe said:
I have an original Roadster fuel tank and checking the hinge hole size the closest drill size would be a number 20. That makes sense in that the roll pin is for a 5/32 hole and a number 20 hole is just a little bit bigger than a 5/32. If it were me I would try cleaning out the hole with a number 21 drill and if that isn't quite big enough, finish it off with a number 20 drill. A long extension drill (spar drill) is the drill of choice. I happen to have a whole bunch of them because I used them frequently in aircraft sheet metal work.

Peter Joe
Click to expand...
I think this is the best way to go. Cover the tank with lots of thick cloth and or cardboard but do not tape it to the paint. New paint may peel off with the tape.

I would not use à power drill anywhere near that paint. Just a small hand piece. Maybe like a tap holder

From memory I also used a small drill bit which just slipped through the cap and tank holes to check everything lined up and the tank opened and closed ok. Sometimes they need a bit of fettling.

It's very worthwhile making sure everything works properly before putting the rollpin in completely.
 
Last edited:
johnm said:
I think this is the best way to go. Cover the tank with lots of thick cloth and or cardboard but do not tape it to the paint. New paint may peel off with the tape.

I would not use à power drill anywhere near that paint. Just a small hand piece. Maybe like a tap holder

From memory I also used a small drill bit which just slipped through the cap and tank holes to check everything lined up and the tank opened and closed ok. Sometimes they need a bit of fettling.

It's very worthwhile making sure everything works properly before putting the rollpin in completely.
Click to expand...
I used an approximately correct sized finishing nail for the mock up.
 
Besides what everyone else has said, putting a nail thru from the left side will help. The spring fights hard to keep you from lining the pin up. Having one side held more or less in place while you fight the other makes it much easier. Once you get the pin in you may find that the cap won't close or if it does that it won't open. Carefully pry up on the tank part that the pin goes through. The EMGO tanks have that a little low and it will bend up just enough to make the cap work.

BTW, a helper makes it WAY easier - you can focus on getting the pin in while they hold down on the cap.
 
  • Like
Reactions: HRD
marshg246 said:
Besides what everyone else has said, putting a nail thru from the left side will help. The spring fights hard to keep you from lining the pin up. Having one side held more or less in place while you fight the other makes it much easier. Once you get the pin in you may find that the cap won't close or if it does that it won't open. Carefully pry up on the tank part that the pin goes through. The EMGO tanks have that a little low and it will bend up just enough to make the cap work.

BTW, a helper makes it WAY easier - you can focus on getting the pin in while they hold down on the cap.
Click to expand...
That is what I did. I gound the tip of the nail flat and as I drifted in the pin, the nail is pushed out the other side. No fighting either side, alignment is kept the whole time. It is useful for a third hand keeping the nail aligned in the bore.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top