Whats the best way to tell when the shoes in the rear drum brake are worn and due for replacement ? Is there a "tell tale" on the angle of the adjuster etc or just a case of waiting till they don't bite so well ? I tend to brake / decelerate using the engine and come to a stop with the back brake all the time (v rarely use the front disc) so keen to look after it !
drum brake wear indicator ?
- Thread starter stu
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2009
- Messages
- 2,210
when the brake lever and connecting rod angle becomes greater than 90 degree's when applyed, its time to do something. ,
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
That has been my rear drum experience onder, even after rear set for some drag to have some rear brake rather than just a tendency to slow down, on levelish grade. In craft that can wear shoes down most wait till the rivets grind grooves in the drum. So if no rivets exposed still good to go, w/o much whoa. Rear is prone to oil leaks from stuff ahead of it so mine get worn down most by the cleaning then dry sanding of shoe and drum, best done crosswise than in line of drag, if that even matters in Norton rear drum. My Trixie after over decade sitting up in a shop came home with a very effective rear brake able to lock up over 30 mph, even w/o intending to, but have never gotten it back that good no matter what after deer strike made me go through it.
An inspection hole ! excellent - I'll go and have a closer look. I've been pretty impressed with the rear drum - it cerainly has good stoppnig power and i reckon it would lock up readily enough if stomped on. Not so impressed with the front disc tho . . (73 cast iron rotor and flash gordon style caliper) definitely requires strong hands.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
Well you should try to lock up rear on pavement an instant to see if it can and get a reflex to release fast on slick places. Its fun to lock up rear below 30 and slide bike at skewed angle upright til stopped. For easy improvement of front disc take out the piston guts [left mounted on bar] and run a red not 6 penny nail through the very tiny rubber hole restrictor valve to completely eliminate any restriction like all the 'upgrade' resleeve kits and clean & and fresh surface on the pads and disc. After I did this on two Combat I need more tire grip power to handle more braking not more brake power.
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2013
- Messages
- 5,396
My rubber inspection plugs are disintegrating, and I would like to replace them. However, I cannot find them in the parts list, nor the mk2/2a parts supplement, nor on the AN site.
Unless I am blind, which has happened before.
Can anyone point me to the P/N?
Unless I am blind, which has happened before.
Can anyone point me to the P/N?
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 20,378
Mk2/2A parts supplement, Group 20, 065766......Grommet......2.
http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton% ... e-list.php
http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton% ... e-list.php
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2011
- Messages
- 1,723
most every motorcyclist uses the front brake literally all the time and some almost exclusively while using the rear only to steady without diving
the front brake is not only far, far more effective stopping the bike than the rear but disc brake pads are much less expensive than shoes, the front disc will probably still be on your bike after your death they last so long - references your comment that you rarely use the front so as to be keen to look after it
just some thoughts but seriously its about safety and the ability to stop and avoid danger far more quickly in much shorter stopping distance using the front
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2013
- Messages
- 5,396
L.A.B. said:
Ahh, sweet. I must have just glassed over when looking there.
- Status
