Drive side crank seal.

My drive side crank seal is leaking, when the bike is parked the engine wet sumps, nothing suprising thus far, then some of the oil leaks into the chain case, causing clutch slippage etc etc.

Is the drive side crank seal supposed to be fitted part number pointing out into the chain case or into the crank.

Inside the crank cases will be a negative pressure versus the outside ????.

I fitted a new seal at rebuild.

Thanks

Josh
This way ? ( yes I have blocked the other two holes ).

Hi Josh,
Far as I know, you have the seal in the right way, with the spring gaiter in toward the engine. Is it possible some oil is running past the 3 little unc primary bolts. As the holes are not blind and go into the cases. I used 519 loctite on these and wired them.
if you need to remove the seal, in situ. You could try a harley gearbox seal trick, make up a stout ring that is similar ID & OD to the seal, drill some holes in it and use PK screws to grip the seal, then some all thread at right angles to the two PK screws a plate at the end and use the crank shaft to pull the seal.
Now only thing apart from installation damage that could blow the seal is blocked breather?

Cheers Richard

I haven't had any problems with that seal, yet. I did use studs and nuts for those 3 mounting bolts and used red locktite on the studs in the crank case. I did have mine off after the re-build, but that was because the gasket between the crank case and the inner cover was leaking. New gasket and some RTV cured it. Are you sure it's the seal, not coming from the gearbox? As I remember, you put a PCV on the old magneto area and blocked the timed breather? I'm still using the original timed breather setup, so far, so good. I made a small catch bottle from a pill bottle to catch the junk out of the front of the oil tank breather. That seems to be working pretty good.

Dave
69S

You need to put a bit of Loctite bearing mount around the seal when you fit it otherwise it will leak. Ask me how I know.

Seal ain't that tight usually so sheet metal screws into it, one or more, can be grabbed on to jerk it out. PCV also known to help keep oil away from its home in the Earth.

You can get the crankshaft oil seal with a rubberised shoulder which in my experience gives a slightly tighter fit, and makes it grip better and is more or less oil tight. Any bearing shop should be able to supply them.

Also Stockie is correct with regard to the holes for the stator supports being a possible source for a leak. I just put a dab of silicone onto the stud thread before screwing it in.

Regarding the clutch slip, it is usually caused by gearbox oil coming down the pushrod tunnel in the gearbox mainshaft and onto the plates (assuming that the clutch plates have been cleaned properly when building the clutch and it has the correct stack height). I have fitted one of dynodaves clutch pushrod oil seals and despite running my primary in oil, never get clutch slip (yet).

Going to a bike show today, so will pull it to peices later in the week.

Seal went in with bearing locker ( green permatex glue ).

The three little bolts went in with 222 and some non drying permatex.

Alternator studs wit 222.

Stand by.