The threaded hole in the body goes through to the bore where the boot is located. I would feel better having everything out of harms way.
Are you saying that it isn't necessary to drill and tap for a helicoil or that it isn't necessary to dismantle the boot and other internals.
I had already considered that option. Thank you for also affirming that method. That's what I will do.I'd have thought it wouldn't be absolutely necessary to remove the piston assembly because there seems enough space to insert a piece of curved sheet metal to protect the boot if the drill bit did happen to go too far and also to blow any swarf out afterwards.
classicpartsltd.com
Yes , this is my preferred route too.The Halcyon rectangular mirror is "traditional" high quality. No modifications required. UK made.
819 Replacement Mirror Head - For Bar End Mirrors
819 Mirror head measurements: Height: 95mmWidth: 130mm Replacement rectangular mirror head made from stainless steel.
Re-use existing stems.
I have these and the clutch lever fouls the LH curved stalk. Has to be 1/2" out of the bar to allow enough clearance.The Halcyon rectangular mirror is "traditional" high quality. No modifications required. UK made.
819 Replacement Mirror Head - For Bar End Mirrors
819 Mirror head measurements: Height: 95mmWidth: 130mm Replacement rectangular mirror head made from stainless steel.
Re-use existing stems.
I fitted a pair to mine and found that the left one also would foul with the clutch in.
Just don't try it on the other end of the lever
The link is for the mirror HEAD, to use on OEM style stems. Not the bar end type (which uses the same mirror head).
I don't have enough bar, before it curves. I must have the narrowest bars. I think the previous owner tried it, because the switch housing had a crack around the underside bolt hole. I may change the bars, in time.