Cutch max out > Mytery clutch parts

I'm scratching at straws to spank best elite bikes in their element and
seek help to hook up Ms Peel's expected 100+ ft/lb engine torque.

I stumbled on a comment by ludwig » Sun May 16, 2010 3:37 am
"..If you have access to a lathe .. you could kill many birds with one stone by turning out the hole in the steel plates 1 or 2 cm .
The clutch would be lighter , less sticking , increased effective radius ..just look at the plates of a modern clutch ."

This is new ground to me, best I could conceive is use 850 clutch stack
or $pend for a coil spring conversion clutch kit.
What width would one seek in narrowed plated for max bite?

What would a dragster do to factory type clutch for max hook up
retaining cheaper mostly factory styled parts?

hobot - when Peel was 1st spiffed up with advice of real
Nortoneers, thought clutch was slipping on highway entry
steep form hesitation in pull on snicking 2nd, turned out it
was just tire spin catching up.

http://www.rgmmotors.co.uk/home.htm

"063741 CLUTCH PLATE SINTERED BRONZE SPECIAL HI-TORQUE"


"HS0746 NARROW HARDENED STEEL PLATE FOR ABOVE (WILL TRANSMIT MORE POWER THAN 060746)"

Getting the pressure further away from the center of rotation gives more grip, They use the same technology in brakes now too.

The narrowing down of the plates gets a mention in the old NOC Commando Service Notes with the comment that 100,000 miles were completed on fibre plates with no noticeable wear.

Edit- found a link http://archives.jampot.dk/Book/Workshop ... _Notes.pdf

I went for the RGM clutch pack which adds a bit to the stack height to lighten the action a swell as increasing the torque capability, no problems so far but well short of 100,000 miles.

Oh Wow L.A.B., thanks for the RGM clutch plate spectacular to me.
I've a number of RGM items but been awhile since checking offerings,
yummy hope restoring revelation.

I think I only want clutch to hold enough power to spin 130 tire and
not break tranny.
Between feathering clutch and tyre spin might get away with
Ms Peel power.

hobot

ludwig said:

turn out steel plates you have , use friction plates you have , not spend hard earned hobot cash .

Click to expand...

I believe it's possible to machine some of the inner friction area off the bronze plates too?

ludwig said:

L.A.B. said:

..I believe it's possible to machine some of the inner friction area off the bronze plates too?

Click to expand...

Or do both ..?
The original bronze plates already have a narrower band ,compared with the fibre plates , leaving the inner area of the steel plates unused .
It is really worth your while making the clutch as light as possible .

Click to expand...

Machining the plate area makes no difference to the how light the clutch is, only the stack height affects that.

ludwig said:

Or do both ..?

Click to expand...

Yes I meant both sets of plates ("too" in the context of: "in addition to")

ludwig said:

L.A.B. said:

ludwig said:

Or do both ..?

Click to expand...

Yes I meant both sets of plates ("too" in the context of: "in addition to")

Click to expand...

sorry ,my englese no very good !
Rich J : by 'light ' I mean less weight , like in kilos or pounds ..?
It is the rotational inertia of the clutch that knocks the teeth out of your gearbox , and we don't want that , do we ?

Click to expand...

Ah, understood.