Curious gouges inside case (Part 2)

Hi Guy's,

So here's my next question - if the shared diagnosis of previous failure and rebuild is correct, is there a way to confirm that when the fix was applied the bearings were renewed and done with the stronger spec 'Superblends" we all accept as required? If I can figure this out and confirm it may support not having to separate the cases and renew the bottom end all over again - which would be fine by me... I could then focus on the jug and head, renewing as needed before reassembly.

I've taken a few more pics (see link) - a couple of interesting things catch my eye. First, the tops of the con rod bolts seem to seat inconsistently (of the 4, some seem a bit proud, others look almost countersunk to the rod itself in terms of how deeply they sit) is that consistent with a factory build? Everything turns smoothly and looks very tight. Also, there is a red colored material present on the underside of the jug, and on the studs - looks like a Permatex or similar gasket seal material - did the factory use this (see pics) red stuff?

Lastly, the bearings show no identifiable numbers on the outside - there is a rectangular box in one (see pic) but I don't recognize that as anything, does anyone else?

Anyway, just hoping t learn what I can before taking next steps (whatever they may be). Thanks.


-kjo


https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

For peace of mine I would just pull the bottom end apart, its not that big of a job and then you will be for sure things are right, not knowing the history of the motor it be the best way to go, by the look of your lifters they have wear marks on them so the motor has done some miles, if the bike is going to be a keeper then I would go the next step and replace the con rod shells and make sure it has the supa blend bearings, plus its a good way to know all about your motor.

Ashley

bostonkevino said:

First, the tops of the con rod bolts seem to seat inconsistently (of the 4, some seem a bit proud, others look almost countersunk to the rod itself in terms of how deeply they sit) is that consistent with a factory build?

Click to expand...

If sufficient care is not taken when fitting conrod bolts then the sharp edge of the bolt head can shave a piece of alloy off the inside of the recess which then becomes trapped under the head of the bolt.

bostonkevino said:

Lastly, the bearings show no identifiable numbers on the outside - there is a rectangular box in one (see pic) but I don't recognize that as anything, does anyone else?

Click to expand...

In the picture I think you are referring to (the last) is the drive-side oil seal, not the bearing.

Edit: I'd say that rectangular marking on the metal face of the seal could be the result of a previous attempt to remove the crankshaft with the crank taper woodruff key still in position.

bostonkevino said:

...is there a way to confirm that when the fix was applied the bearings were renewed and done with the stronger spec 'Superblends" we all accept as required?

Click to expand...

ABSOLUTELY.

Simply work back through the previous owners until you get verifiable proof of the previous work that was done, by the person who did it.

Unless, of course, someone or anyone in that chain of ownership and/or mechanics involved have passed on or are no longer conversant, etc.

...or any one of a dozen other reasons you could hit a dead-end in your quest...

Hah, yes, oil seal - I misspoke. Same result though, seems my best choice is to separate the cases and see what's what. If I do find everything is solid (including a set of Superblends) then great, if not it's time to order some parts...

-kjo