Covenant sleeves v extended top bushes

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Still toying with options gents for topping out issues and would appreciate your feedback...
Considering the two options available.
1. Extended top bushes and lengthening the damper rods travel slightly (using washers) & plugging the two 1/8" holes in the lower part of the stanchion
2. Fitting covenant sleeves
Damper tube valves have been replaced and are a Nice fit in the tubes
New damper rods
Damper tube caps have been drilled and had brass tubing insert installed
Which of these two options gives the best results???... I appreciate everyone has their own views, but would still like your thoughts as this subject is a can of worms
 
SOMEWHERE , I have a set of those Covenant sleeves that I no longer need...
 
The sleeves need to stay up, if they drop the transfer holes in the stanchion get covered too early, the longer bushes guarantee this cannot happen.
 
The Covenant sleeves can loosen and in some cases are made loose and free float. Not what you would want. The longer bushes and properly made and secured sleeves do the job as originally intended by covering the ports in the stanchions to slow down fork extension. However often over looked are the two top hat bushes in the damper bodies. The bore of these small bushes is tightly toleranced and anything over 0.002" wear will cause the dreaded clonk.
Dave
 
The Covenant sleeves can loosen and in some cases are made loose and free float. Not what you would want. The longer bushes and properly made and secured sleeves do the job as originally intended by covering the ports in the stanchions to slow down fork extension. However often over looked are the two top hat bushes in the damper bodies. The bore of these small bushes is tightly toleranced and anything over 0.002" wear will cause the dreaded clonk.
Dave
Thanks Dave, I didn't think you could use both...one or the other?.
I have carried out JS Motorsport mod to the top hat bushes and this works really good, there is no movement what so ever between rod, bush/top hat
 
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