Clutch Problems on 2013 Norton SF

roofus

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Apr 26, 2014
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I have read some posts on "Clutch Basket Failures" on late model Comandos. I am not sure if my problem is related or not, so I started a new thread.

I have a 2013 Commando SF. It has a little over 3000 miles on the clock.

When I start the bike in first gear with the clutch fully pulled in (touching the handle bar) the bike lurches forward as it starts. This indicates to me that the clutch is not fully disengaged. This happens regardless of whether the clutch lever is In position 1,2,3 or 4. If I start the bike in neutral with the clutch pulled in, the problem disappears.

Oddly enough, when I drive off in first gear a have to let the clutch out to 50% or more before it has enough friction or grab to take off. The clutch doesn't appear to grab immediately which it should. Very Strange?

Are here any clutch adjustments outside of the clutch lever setting 1-4 settings, or do I need to pull things apart to see if I have the all-to-common clutch basket problems?

Any comments or suggestions welcome!
 
Does it do this when fully warmed up ? Maybe sticky plates ? Get it to full operating temperature then try your test again. You can try bleeding the clutch line , if not any of these you may need to take the primary cover off , but first try an oil change . If you take it apart , clean the plates and when your checking things make sure the clutch hub center nut is tight. Use a bit of loctite on the threads.
 
I was told never start the bike in gear even with the clutch pulled in from the dealer , Always in neutral sitting on bike.
When i picked up my new bike, another owner pickup his bike also , The next morning he started his new bike in gear , with clutch pulled in standing beside his bike and it lurched forward off the stand in a heap on the ground .
cheers
Paul
 
I had same problem - Make sure you are following start procedure correctly, nomthrottle otherwise you confuse the TPS and get high revs tickover which Will drag a clutch that’s not fully disengaged

I would second bleeding/replacing clutch hydraulic fluid and replacing the clutch/gearbox oil. It’s an easy job but don’t panic when you see the gearbox/clutch oil looks metallic it is wear from clutch plates and there is no filter in that oil system
 
Have’nt experienced this as I have never started mine with it in gear. Not sure why you would want to, especially whilst stood at the side of the bike? May just be me, I also never use the engine kill sw but rather the key to turn off the ignition. My mate always uses the kill switch. The dickhead often reaches across and flicks my kill switch whilst we are sat at a set of lights; he finds it funny as he blasts off into the distance.

I do note though and this may be (is) a different issue entirely, but with the bike running and in neural, on a paddock stand, the rear wheel rotates slightly when the bike is revved. So, an element of drive to the front sprocket whilst the bike is in neutral. Another unique attribute of the ‘Quirkmobile’! Good job the damn thing is so beutiful!
 
Stephen_Spencer said:
Have’nt experienced this as I have never started mine with it in gear. Not sure why you would want to, especially whilst stood at the side of the bike? May just be me, I also never use the engine kill sw but rather the key to turn off the ignition. My mate always uses the kill switch. The dickhead often reaches across and flicks my kill switch whilst we are sat at a set of lights; he finds it funny as he blasts off into the distance.

I do note though and this may be (is) a different issue entirely, but with the bike running and in neural, on a paddock stand, the rear wheel rotates slightly when the bike is revved. So, an element of drive to the front sprocket whilst the bike is in neutral. Another unique attribute of the ‘Quirkmobile’! Good job the damn thing is so beutiful!
Click to expand...
All cars and bikes drive wheels will slowly rotate when they’re off the ground and engine running.
 
Thank you all for your responses. They were very helpful.

Lots of useful info. I will try and answer all the comments here:

I was planning to change the hydraulic fluid, because it is old and looks a bit dark. That may be the problem. I have purchased the DOT4 and will get underway soon.
I also am planning to change the engine oil as well, but I am waiting for a filter to arrive. I will change the transmission oil at the same time.

I don't normally start the bike in gear, but I like to leave it in first gear when parked on the side stand for the additional stability. Then when I go to start it, it is sometimes very difficult or near impossible to find neutral with a cold engine that is not running, and a Neutral indicator that is only accurate some of the time. I never start the bike standing beside it, always straddling it. I just feel more in control this way.

I never use the kill switch to stop the bike . . . .except once on my Beamer when I dropped it at a service station :)

I generally try to start the bike with no throttle, but my bike and a lot of 961's seems to take multiple tries to start and sometime I have to give it a bit of gas to get it to fire; but that's a whole other topic!

I am not sure if the clutch problem changes with engine temperature or not. I haven't been taking note but I will.

I will update this thread once I have bled the hydraulics and changed all the fluids.

Thanks again!
 
If you are still taking a few goes to start your bike they sorted that out with a remap awhile back I was lucky enough to have my omen ECU changed to an SC one on a recall if you are still running an omex I'd recommend changing it, its like riding a totally different bike... in a very good way
 
Hello Bluedog , Are you really meaning that you went from OMEX to SC ? Usually the factory was pushing the other way around I thought from SC to OMEX . My SC starts the engine very well also.
 
roofus said:
I have read some posts on "Clutch Basket Failures" on late model Comandos. I am not sure if my problem is related or not, so I started a new thread.

I have a 2013 Commando SF. It has a little over 3000 miles on the clock.

When I start the bike in first gear with the clutch fully pulled in (touching the handle bar) the bike lurches forward as it starts. This indicates to me that the clutch is not fully disengaged. This happens regardless of whether the clutch lever is In position 1,2,3 or 4. If I start the bike in neutral with the clutch pulled in, the problem disappears.

Oddly enough, when I drive off in first gear a have to let the clutch out to 50% or more before it has enough friction or grab to take off. The clutch doesn't appear to grab immediately which it should. Very Strange?

Are here any clutch adjustments outside of the clutch lever setting 1-4 settings, or do I need to pull things apart to see if I have the all-to-common clutch basket problems?

Any comments or suggestions welcome!
Click to expand...
2013, 3000 miles...I have found it useful if the bike has been unused for a while is to free off the clutch. Take the bike off the stand, engage 2nd, pull in the clutch and rock the bike back and forth until the clutch is freed (obviously make sure the ignition is off!). The other way is to ride the bike every day!
 
TonyA said:
Hello Bluedog , Are you really meaning that you went from OMEX to SC ? Usually the factory was pushing the other way around I thought from SC to OMEX . My SC starts the engine very well also.
Click to expand...
Actually got me second guessing now I've just moved house and can't find the receipt handy had a look under the seat and mine is the silver one I think they were different colours weren't they?
 
Lincolnshire Poacher said:
2013, 3000 miles...I have found it useful if the bike has been unused for a while is to free off the clutch. Take the bike off the stand, engage 2nd, pull in the clutch and rock the bike back and forth until the clutch is freed (obviously make sure the ignition is off!). The other way is to ride the bike every day!
Click to expand...
Thanks!

I will try this as well.

Don
 
Bleeding is easy. Changed my slave cylinder too (to no avail). When you post your symptoms on a forum, you will get countless guesses. That said, having the same symptoms you are, bike pulling with clutch pulled, plus having to double clutch into third, my clutch basket nut backed out. Found by my mechanic in about 10 seconds. Tightened it up. Changed the tranny fluid. Done. Still worth posting your symptoms though. These guys really help out a lot.
 
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