Bronze clutch plates (2019)

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yea BUT part of the plus on the belt is to get rid of weight in the primary also the bronze plates are hard on the center hub. i will stick with sacrificing the frictions with the barnetts. I have also seen the bronze plates squak of they are to clean and dry.

Bronzes ought to work fine with a belt-drive primary.
 
I seldom, if ever, really stretch my 850 to it's limit these days, so the additional weight and mass don't affect much on the performance or longevity. As long as the plates continue to work well I'll keep them, if they do happen to degrade then I'll most certainly install a set of the Barnett plates.
 
If your bronze plates do start to slip, instead of taking it apart and cleaning it, just do a few starts in third gear. Slip the clutch a lot and it will clean it right up as good as new.
 
My bronze plates worked well with my dry belt when I was running it, but they do bite a bit quicker so when first installed you will notice that but it don't take long to get use to it, I had two years of no problems with my belt drive then one day my outer guide plate just blew to pieces from the belt trying to run off, I had two adjuster for the gearbox and had to replace the belt it was wearing the belt outer edge down, after many attemps to fix this problem I gave up and went back to chain drive and have had no problems since, the belt drive will be going on my Manxman caferacer build, the amount of miles I was doing on my Norton I couldn't afford to be stuck out in the middle of nowhere with a blown belt or guide plate and no phone coverage.
I found no differents to running a belt or chain, the belt gearing was a little bit higher but not much differents at all, the chain is more forgiving and the next step when the triplex chain wears out I be putting a duplex chain on from the chain man.

Ashley
 
My bronze plates worked well with my dry belt when I was running it, but they do bite a bit quicker so when first installed you will notice that but it don't take long to get use to it, I had two years of no problems with my belt drive then one day my outer guide plate just blew to pieces from the belt trying to run off, I had two adjuster for the gearbox and had to replace the belt it was wearing the belt outer edge down, after many attemps to fix this problem I gave up and went back to chain drive and have had no problems since, the belt drive will be going on my Manxman caferacer build, the amount of miles I was doing on my Norton I couldn't afford to be stuck out in the middle of nowhere with a blown belt or guide plate and no phone coverage.
I found no differents to running a belt or chain, the belt gearing was a little bit higher but not much differents at all, the chain is more forgiving and the next step when the triplex chain wears out I be putting a duplex chain on from the chain man.

Ashley
Goday Ashman. The wear problem I have with the clutch is the friction plate splines wearing away. The clutch basket free wheel bearing looks to be slightly inboard in relation to the centre run of the triplex chain and this may cause the basket to be pulled out of alignment in use and cause the friction plate splines to "shuffle" on the clutch centre. This is minimised when the clutch centre is a good press fit in the bearing but I found that it still occurs. 1970 fastback unknown mileage, 145000 mile by myself and 850 mk 2, 175000 miles. ( the great dividing range is my touring ride from Wollongong up to south east Queensland in winter, Putty road,Fossickers way, Bruxner hwy, Goomeri, Gympie, then back for servicing). Any advice would be welcome. Safe riding.
 
Mine are originals, used on M3, A34 and A303, so filtering with numerous gear changes. 50K and still good. It gets caned as it is cheap for me to fix it. Best improvement for little cost was the RGM 3mm plain plate.
 
I am still using the original plates my Norton came with new after 46 years my clutch still works great and is very light, yes it did slip in the early days till I found the right oil to run in my primary and the only thing I have replaced was the outer pressure plate and a centre clutch hub and new sealed bearing, not bad for 46 years of hard running, but of course you still got to pull them down as part of any major servicing and maintenance, usually once a year depends on the mileage done, my Norton was a everyday ride till about 7 years ago and copped a canning in my younger days with burn outs and wheelies, but after a few years learned you can't keep doing that unless you like fixing things lol.

Ashley
 
Well as the op guess I will chime back in. After 2 years they work fine.
 
Bronze plates have done right by me.... kinda grabby on take off until things warm up in there so I stall a lot when beginning my rides, but better than sliced bread after that period..... as said they last a long time.
 
My bronze plates have worn by maybe .001 inch after 40,000 miles. With ATF in the primary and a proper shim plate the maintenance was reduced to attention every 2-3 years. I'd get slipping under load in top gear, or clunking going into first and difficulty finding neutral as an indicator of when they needed service. But now with a dry primary, belt drive, and Barnett plates I hope to never take the clutch apart again.
 
My bronze plates have worn by maybe .001 inch after 40,000 miles. With ATF in the primary and a proper shim plate the maintenance was reduced to attention every 2-3 years. I'd get slipping under load in top gear, or clunking going into first and difficulty finding neutral as an indicator of when they needed service. But now with a dry primary, belt drive, and Barnett plates I hope to never take the clutch apart again.
The bronze 828 C.C. model plates work fine and don't wear out. The only 2 concerns are :
1. The engagement teeth with the clutch center are narrower and harder than other fiber types and will eventually contribute to clutch center notching. That's why a CNW center is important.
2. They are heavy.
On the plus side they tolerate high or low oil levels quite well.
 
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