Boyer Elec. Ignition

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I am going to install a Boyer system on my bike. I was going to get new points but found have a points plate screw that had striped threads so I ordered the Boyer system. I have pulled the points and AAU out and have it all ready to go when it arrives. My question is the wires on the coils, resister ballast and condenser pack.

I take the red from the condenser pack (ground) and connect it to the positive of the right coil.
Right negative to positive left (w/ supplied black wire).
Negative left to black wire on the Boyer box.
Red from Boyer box to red (ground) previously removed on the condenser pack.
White/blue from resister ballast to white on the Boyer box.
Black/yellow and black/white from the Boyer box to the Boyer ignition.

Do I remove are all other wires from the condenser pack, resister ballast and coils from the main harness? or do I leave the white/yellow connected to the coils and resister ballast and just remove the black/white from the condenser pack and coils?
 
blipJC said:
White/blue from resister ballast to white on the Boyer box.

As long as you connect the Boyer box white to the white/blue that connects to the white/yellow from the handlebar kill switch, but better in my opinion to connect the Boyer white directly to the white/yellow feed from the kill switch and thus completely bypass white/blue if possible.



blipJC said:
Do I remove are all other wires from the condenser pack, resister ballast and coils from the main harness? or do I leave the white/yellow connected to the coils and resister ballast and just remove the black/white from the condenser pack and coils?

Yes, disconnect and/or remove the ballast resistor and condenser pack and all other wiring from the coils.

I notice you say the coil wires are white/yellow? I think some replacement harnesses have white/yellow ballast-resistor-to-coils wiring, but the original ballast-coils(-) wiring was usually white/purple although it isn't marked as such on the wiring diagrams.
 
If black box analog boyah ya can just rewire the two coils to fire as one per instructions or get a black lump dual coil in correct ohm range. If your battery or charger gets below 10.v expect to stall or not start. If boyah ani't fixed its weak trigger wires expect to stall and not start intermittently maddenly until ya remember my mention. Get the upgrade trigger leads soon than later or brew your own.
 
I got the the parts today, installed them, went to kick it over and no start. played with the ticklers and got a few pops and sputters and a kick back, but it won't run.
I believe I got it hooked up right, but just to make sure, when the instructions say "left side" is it the left side when sitting on the bike or when you are standing in front looking at the headlight?
 
blipJC said:
I got the the parts today, installed them, went to kick it over and no start. played with the ticklers and got a few pops and sputters and a kick back, but it won't run.
I believe I got it hooked up right, but just to make sure, when the instructions say "left side" is it the left side when sitting on the bike or when you are standing in front looking at the headlight?

Astride. Like aircraft, Aft Looking Forward.
 
blipJC said:
I got the the parts today, installed them, went to kick it over and no start. played with the ticklers and got a few pops and sputters and a kick back, but it won't run.

A fairly common mistake is to set the ignition timing using the wrong timing mark on the alternator rotor as there are normally two marks 180 degrees apart. Are you certain you have used the correct timing mark?
 
I think i did. I checked to make sure both pistons were at the top when I set it to the mark at 31 deg. If I used the wrong mark would the pistons be up or down? if they are up on both marks how do you make sure you are on the right mark?
 
blipJC said:
I think i did. I checked to make sure both pistons were at the top when I set it to the mark at 31 deg. If I used the wrong mark would the pistons be up or down? if they are up on both marks how do you make sure you are on the right mark?

As long as the pistons were near the tops of their strokes then you have used the correct timing mark.
 
If you have the analogue Boyer, there are two holes to line up the magnets in. One for anti clockwise cams and one for clockwise.
You need the hole marked "anti clockwise".
 
Here is a question for you knowledgeable chaps...

Why does Boyer fit two trigger coils on its stator plate and trigger them both at the same time?

Don't say wasted spark. Because that will work with one trigger, like it does for Lucas Rita (for example).

It is to get a more reliable trigger signal?.

Note, this is curiosity since I am using a Maney Boyer setup which only has one trigger coil and magnet.
 
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