Boyer Bransden vs. Tri-Spark

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I currently have a Tri-Spark installed in my '74 850 and love it! I recently received a new Boyer Bransden (door prize at a motorcycle event) and "plan" to install it in my '72 750 Combat project. However, I'm now hearing that the Boyer Bransden does NOT eliminate kick-back, unlike the Tri-Spark unit. Can anyone confirm or deny this? I am now in a bit of a holding pattern, wondering whether to install it or buy a Tri-Spark unit instead? My concern is that, several years ago, I suffered fractured bones in my foot, and a severe ankle sprain, due to kick-back from my old Triumph Bonneville. Any suggestions and/or recommendations would be most appreciated. Thanks!
 
I currently have a Tri-Spark installed in my '74 850 and love it! I recently received a new Boyer Bransden (door prize at a motorcycle event) and "plan" to install it in my '72 750 Combat project. However, I'm now hearing that the Boyer Bransden does NOT eliminate kick-back, unlike the Tri-Spark unit. Can anyone confirm or deny this? I am now in a bit of a holding pattern, wondering whether to install it or buy a Tri-Spark unit instead? My concern is that, several years ago, I suffered fractured bones in my foot, and a severe ankle sprain, due to kick-back from my old Triumph Bonneville. Any suggestions and/or recommendations would be most appreciated. Thanks!
A Boyer ignition can kick you back if the battery is low
 
Might more dependent on model of Boyer? It it the older analogue or newer digital model?
 
They only kick back if not set right and a low battery, I ran my old Boyer for over 31 years and it only ever kicked back twice In all that time if they are to advanced they will kick you, I replaced my Boyer for a Joe Hunt Maggie now and will never go back to EIs, in the early days back in the 70s I had two that failed one a Lucas Rita the other one was my first Boyer but it failed because of a major fire so wasn't really the Boyer's fault but it failed a week after I got it back on the road and 100 miles from home that was back in the early 80s the replacement lasted 31 years and was still working when I put the JH on, it's now on my mate's Norton but he has sold it now, so not sure if its still going.

Ashley
 
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Might more dependent on model of Boyer? It it the older analogue or newer digital model?

The Boyer digital ignitions (Micro-Digital, and Micro-Power) have been around for several (25+?) years.

The most recent Boyer is the analogue Micro MkIV.

http://www.boyerbransden.com/micromarkiv.html
"The Boyer Bransden range of Analogue MKIII ignition units are being progressively changed* to improved MKIV versions. The changes are designed to improve the timing stability if engine starting with a very low or variable battery voltage."

*(Has been MkIV for a few years now)
 
Yeah, I have an older microdigital boyer. It can certainly kickback. I don't know if the new ones never kickback. Is it true that the tri-spark's never kick back?
 
Mk 1V Boyer model . Senses lower voltage and compensates for that situation , like ANY E-start with huge voltage drop hitting the start button. I'll never go to a points cavity E.I. again. Heat is the enemy. I'm 61 now and my kicking days are over and evolved. Enjoy.
 
Many years ago, I fell off a motorcycle and slid up the road on my side. As I slid, my foot rotated and I broke a piece of bone off in my right knee joint. I walked with the injury for about a year then stepped quickly down a step and ended-up in a heap. I went to hospital and had the piece of bone removed from my knee joint. It was attached to one of the cartileges, so both were removed. At that time I was riding road bikes which were always kick start. When you kick start a bike, you should bring it up until you feel compression, then keeping the pressure on the kick start, just flick it over top dead centre. If it kicks back, you should be able to hold it, without stressing your leg.
It does not matter what ignition system you have, if it goes onto too much advance you will get the kick-back.
When I kick-start a bike, I always stand astride it, never to the side. It is mind over matter, you need to decide who is in control. I never cop any bullshit from a motorcycle, even when they seem to have minds of their own.
 
I once kick-started a 1000cc Vincent which was on 13 to 1 compression with methanol. You have to decide who is the boss - you or the bike.
 
I currently have a Tri-Spark installed in my '74 850 and love it! I recently received a new Boyer Bransden (door prize at a motorcycle event) and "plan" to install it in my '72 750 Combat project. However, I'm now hearing that the Boyer Bransden does NOT eliminate kick-back, unlike the Tri-Spark unit. Can anyone confirm or deny this? I am now in a bit of a holding pattern, wondering whether to install it or buy a Tri-Spark unit instead? My concern is that, several years ago, I suffered fractured bones in my foot, and a severe ankle sprain, due to kick-back from my old Triumph Bonneville. Any suggestions and/or recommendations would be most appreciated. Thanks!


Same for me, the 2 feet broken after 15 years of Boyer MK3, 8 months apart,box permanently in full advance..........And I’m not the only one in France,cheap it costs a lot,since Saschse.
 
I was told just this week by Norman White to ensure that I fit a Boyer mk 4 ignition,as the mk4 prevents the kickback.
 
Yeah, I have an older microdigital boyer. It can certainly kickback. I don't know if the new ones never kickback. Is it true that the tri-spark's never kick back?
I've installed Tri-Spark in many bikes and have never had a kickback. BSA B25, BSA B50, Triumph Twins 500, 650, 750, Triumph Triples, Norton Commandos 750, 750 Combat, 850.

I've had several new riders who thought vintage British bikes were "cool". They have no idea how to kick start a bike and can be hard to teach. Having them not get hurt by kick back really helps with teaching!

Most Triumphs are 38 degrees full advance so timing wise more likely to kick back but don't with Tri-Spark.

Tri-Spark may not start at all with low voltage, but it does not cause kickback. The last B25 I did was capacitor ignition (no battery) and it starts just fine, but then it's pretty easy to spin that little engine.
 
Yes I have the MK 1V model Boyer on my MK 111 model Norton. This replaced the early model Trispark which would die,cool down then start up again until the cycle repeated itself when hot. This Boyer has never let me down (yet) and the anti-backfire device has not engaged (slipped) at all. So I'm sticking with it.
 
I can attest to ability to start my 850 mkii with dead battery (zener failed and lead over heating/bloating of the battery) running a boyer mkiii knock off EI called the VapeWassell. Took two kicks to get some juice into the 2MC capacitor and then it fired up easily, though would start to faulter if I let the turn signals flash too long at low rpm.
 
Sounds like you already know the answer your own question...broken bones?
Why take such a risk again?
 
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Check into Boyer versus combat spec. It’s been a about 18 years since someone maybe in this site recommended not to use Boyer on a combat engine due to the advance curve. I was getting some detonation with the Boyer and switched to a Lucas RITA. Cured the problem and I put the Boyer in my ‘74 JPN....worked fine.
 
running a boyer mkiii knock off EI called the VapeWassell. Took two kicks to get some juice into the 2MC capacitor and then it fired up easily, though would start to faulter if I let the turn signals flash too long at low rpm.

For being the cheapest electronic ignition, that Wassell kit appears to be pretty professional.

My Alton alternator isn’t energetic enough to power it at slow idle or kickstart rpm though.
 
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