Best Combination of Ignition Parts?

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With all the electronic ignition upgrade parts out there, what is the best combination of parts works best. Ignition, coils, charging,ect.
 
Nortasaki said:
With all the electronic ignition upgrade parts out there, what is the best combination of parts works best. Ignition, coils, charging,ect.

I have been very happy with Boyer MkIII analog ignitions although there are several other options available now like Pazon and SPARX. Boyer also makes what they call a "MicroPower" setup which uses a tiny dual-fire coil and draws much less current than the MkIII version. It supposedly operates at lower voltages, 8 volts versus 10 for the regular unit. I have not tried this one. My Commando has a Dyna dual fire coil and a SPARX 180W single phase alternator. I use pairs of 6 volt PVL coils on some of my other bikes and a couple of them have high output (220W) three phase SPARX alternators. I don't notice much difference in charging performance of the single phase versus three phase alternators but I am not running halogen headlights, heated vests etc. and most of my driving is at highway speeds.
 
And along these lines what is the best way to go to electronic ignition without running a battery?
 
I've used Boyer on my Commando and it was OK but I have now switched to the Tri-Spark 'Classic Twin' system and it is superb - the advantages are :-

1) There is no 'Black Box' - the entire system sits inside the points housing.
2) It has an 'anti-kickback' feature which prevents (often painful) kickbacks when starting.
3) It will run on a battery down to 8v.

Thoroughly recommended !!!
 
And along these lines what is the best way to go to electronic ignition without running a battery?

While it is possible, I would not recommend running any electronic ignition without a battery.
 
No Battery

Hi
On my Seeley Mk111 I ran a Boyer black box & a Boyer Micro digital system.
This is the same set up as on my race Trident. The big difference is that the Commando is difficult to start. Not enough oomph from the alternator as the kickstart does not produce enough speed to generate it. It must also be down to the compression of a twin. I ended up using a very small gel battery to help with starting. The bike started first kick. The other main problem is night time running. The revs drop & the headlamp become a glowing candle. With a daytime ticket I will run my Flattracker with this set up but for night use Ron is right a battery is the way to go.

On the race bike I dont run an alternator, However we found the bike was difficult to start. On retarding the ignition it spun up & ran well. When we checked the battery it held 12.4 volts so we did not see this as the problem. We were begining to believe that it was a black box (Blue box) problem. A seasoned Commando campaigner said its the battery its always the battery. When we charged it up to 13.4 the bike started on the correct timing?
May try my Interspan unit next season.

all the best Chris
 
ddoyle said:
And along these lines what is the best way to go to electronic ignition without running a battery?

Why do you not want to run a battery?
 
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