belt drive, clutch center, friction plates

hi,

i gave my newly overhauled (bearings, bushes...) 750 a belt drive. after doing a test ride i had to readjust the clutch a good bit. i am wondering if the old "soft" friction plates are good for dry use?

my setup is four friction plates + one extra steel plate for easyer pull. which are good clutch plates for dry use?

do i need ventilation holes in the primary drive? the syncroflex belt is advertised to be some kind of temperatur tolerant.

the clutch center has some play on the old main shaft (with loose nut). is it a good idea to use some kind of bearing glue (loctite) here?

the clutch basket has a total play of aproximatly 0,05" on the outer edge. is this too much?

thanks in advance

The clutch is supposed to be dry, despite the fact that some chaincase lube can find it's way in there, so any plates will work. I like Barnett's plates.

do i need ventilation holes in the primary drive? the syncroflex belt is advertised to be some kind of temperatur tolerant.

Click to expand...

no you absolutely do not, they tolerate tremendous heat inside an enclosed primary just fine

I have had my dry belt drive for some 20 years here in the hot SW United States, the last belt lasted 24.000 miles and 15 years and was replaced just because and not that it needed to be

word of warning, brand new Barnett friction clutch plates should be very lightly oiled before installation, I have found that the dry atmosphere of a belt primary can cause the friction pads to squeal a bit against the steel driven plates and even lose some of their outer friction area to powder if installed dry when new
and no this will not lead to clutch slip!

no750 said:

do i need ventilation holes in the primary drive? the syncroflex belt is advertised to be some kind of temperatur tolerant.

Click to expand...

Some do, some don,t. I have the RGM unit kit the the hubs tend to swell on mine, causing the belt to tighten. I need to maintain a pretty loose belt but once set, those syncroflex belts stay put. So, it's not the belt that needs some venting, but the hubs.

I really think it depends on your manufacturer. Again, some people have issue and some do not.

There is one thing you need to check and that is the belt tension after a good run. You do NOT want to let that thing get tight.

no750 said:

hi,

i gave my newly overhauled (bearings, bushes...) 750 a belt drive. after doing a test ride i had to readjust the clutch a good bit. i am wondering if the old "soft" friction plates are good for dry use?

my setup is four friction plates + one extra steel plate for easyer pull. which are good clutch plates for dry use?

Click to expand...

when you say readjust, do you mean at the pushrod or the lever? if you've gone through the proper initial setting procedure (slacken cable at lever, ensure opertaing arm is located properly, 1/2 - 3/4 turn out on the clutch nut from pushrod contact) there should be little to no adjustment required after that.

no750 said:

do i need ventilation holes in the primary drive? the syncroflex belt is advertised to be some kind of temperatur tolerant.

Click to expand...

different opinions on this, my maney kit did not require it, and I certainly wasn't keen on drilling up my primary cover, so I opted for a length of 1/4" stainless spring coil (cut from a $10 drain auger), stretched a bit to open the gaps between the coils, and installed in place of the primary cover o-ring.

no750 said:

the clutch center has some play on the old main shaft (with loose nut). is it a good idea to use some kind of bearing glue (loctite) here?

Click to expand...

ensure it's the centre and not the shaft that's worn, I think green bearing mount is good up to 10 thou slop, but you'll need heat to remove it

no750 said:

the clutch basket has a total play of aproximatly 0,05" on the outer edge. is this too much?

thanks in advance

Click to expand...

basket wobble is, apparently, a normal affair but I've found it can be minimized with good a interference fit between clutch center/basket.

i readjusted the pushrod. The lever got contact on half way.


"different opinions on this, my maney kit did not require it, and I certainly wasn't keen on drilling up my primary cover, so I opted for a length of 1/4" stainless spring coil (cut from a $10 drain auger), stretched a bit to open the gaps between the coils, and installed in place of the primary cover o-ring."

this is a very nice idea!


"ensure it's the centre and not the shaft that's worn, I think green bearing mount is good up to 10 thou slop, but you'll need heat to remove it"

I ordered this damn expensive prodoct and hope it will work : http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.h ... 2627715073

thanks a lot for your help!

no750 said:

i readjusted the pushrod. The lever got contact on half way.


"different opinions on this, my maney kit did not require it, and I certainly wasn't keen on drilling up my primary cover, so I opted for a length of 1/4" stainless spring coil (cut from a $10 drain auger), stretched a bit to open the gaps between the coils, and installed in place of the primary cover o-ring."

this is a very nice idea!


"ensure it's the centre and not the shaft that's worn, I think green bearing mount is good up to 10 thou slop, but you'll need heat to remove it"

I ordered this damn expensive prodoct and hope it will work : http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.h ... 2627715073

thanks a lot for your help!

Click to expand...

if you didn't already order it comes in tubes:
http://www.all-spec.com/Catalog/Adhesiv ... fgodoYgEAw