Basic maintenance question

I have my MK3 back together after doing a minor freshening over the winter and I want to make sure I have all the fluids at the right level especially the gear box after doing the layshaft bearing. My question is ths: the riders manual and shop manual have great info on draining and refilling the various fluids but nowhere can I find direction on whether the bike should be on the side stand or the center stand when topping off the fluids. Other bikes I have clearly indicate this, and I'm pretty user it makes a difference at least in the gearbox and primary. The oil tank is narrow enough and the dipstick central enough that it wouldn't make a huge difference IMO.

Anyone have any insight on this?

center stand, all fluids

Yes, all fluids on center stand......except when I had a primary chain I would set the level on the sidestand. It just seemed to be a more appropriate level than on the center stand.

Thanks guys. Makes sense, just wanted to be sure.

"but nowhere can I find direction on whether the bike should be on the side stand or the center stand when topping off the fluids"

"center stand, all fluids"

I agree that it should be center stand but I also agree with the OP that I have never seen any specific instructions in the manual about it. NOT saying the instructions aren't there somewhere…

Duh, after the 'more the adequate' manual fill levels find their natural innate leak down throw out blow out levels then check em on center stand then on side stand so it don't matter a whitwhorth to a seasoned Nortoneer. The real challenge is deciding what fluid to put in of course.

When I do my gearbox and primary oil I use a messure cup, look in your book to find out what the correct amont is and messure the right amount every time, so no need to have on centre stand, I found out a long time ago doing it this way you never over fill your gear box and you won't get any gear box oil down your clutch rod, my primary oil gets changed evry 1000 miles.

Ashley

Thanks All;

Ashman i did measure out the gearbox oil, and then opened the fill level bolt to make sure it wasnt over full. (while on the center stand) this weekend i'll take a peek in the inspection cover to see how close to the hole i am. i also thought it was a good idea to measure it out, but dont have a lot of confidence in A.) the accuracy of the published info (Norton Manual) and B.) my conversion from imperial measure to US.

The DynoDave clutch rod seal was the very first improvement I made. Simple to install, reasonably priced and effective. No good reason NOT to do it.

I have never had any gearbox oil migrate through to the chain case so have always wondered what could cause it - I assumed it was the oil level in the GBox being too high but I don't know. It seems some bikes do it and some don't though I can't see what could differ from bike to bike that would make the difference if it's not simply the oil level.

Clutch plate griming is decades infamous and why DynoDavid came up with his clutch rod seal. Prior folks would waist the rod near clutch end to cause oil to drip off more before weeping out end and others have removed a small rod section and put a ball bearing in place to also help oil drip off first. I just thick grease in in my pure factory Combat w/o Dyno's seal and been pleased I've not had any tranny oil issues to bother clutch function. I do run ATF in chain primary though which also helps. If ya ever apply to NASA to help build and figure out satellites, tell em ya have fully fettered a British bike, a Commando no less and that may get ya first in line.