Atlas Belt Drive

Hi all
After giving it quite a bit of thought, I decided last week to spring for a belt drive kit from RGM and put the whole issue of primary oil leaks in the rear view mirror. It came yesterday and one thing that I'm not sure that fully get is that the kits include new stator studs that are 5/16" when my my old ones are 1/4". The stator does fit over them but leaves very little room for adjustment to the rotor if needed. I asked Roger about this and he said mentioned how one might get a small amount of adjustment. The part that I don't get is that he also stated that, stock, the stator is held in on it's OD and when moved out as part of the belt kit it is held in by the new 5/16" studs going through the holes in the stator. I looked at it and can't really see how the stator could be held in any other way other than through its holes whether the studs are 1/4" or 5/16". Not sure what he meant by held in by it's OD. what am I missing?

If I had to guess it would be the larger diameter studs are tighter in the stator mount holes and hold the stator in position by the increased outside diameter of the studs. The 1/4" studs were not tight against the inside diameter of the mounting holes at the furthest distance from the center of the stator. That is probably more confusing. If you don't need to adjust the stator due to clearance issues, you could finish the install and forget about it. Just saying

Schwany said:

If I had to guess it would be the larger diameter studs are tighter in the stator mount holes and hold the stator in position by the increased outside diameter of the studs. The 1/4" studs were not tight against the inside diameter of the mounting holes at the furthest distance from the center of the stator. That is probably more confusing. If you don't need to adjust the stator due to clearance issues, you could finish the install and forget about it. Just saying

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Yea Schwany you're probably right about this now that I think further about it. Got you're belt drive installed?

I have never had issues of centering the stator. Maybe just luck, or maybe the design.
For awhile, I ran a Cdo clutch, which forced my rotor and stator outboard. Still no centering issues.
Good luck.....keep us posted.

Slick

I have a RGM belt drive in my Atlas. I did have an issue with getting the proper air gap and carefully enlarged two of the holes in the stator to get proper adjustment.

The real problem I had was getting proper stack of the pulley and rotor. The bushing in the kit was too narrow and had a properly sized one machined for my needs.

kernel65 said:

I have a RGM belt drive in my Atlas. I did have an issue with getting the proper air gap and carefully enlarged two of the holes in the stator to get proper adjustment.

The real problem I had was getting proper stack of the pulley and rotor. The bushing in the kit was too narrow and had a properly sized one machined for my needs.

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HMM not sure what you mean by the " bushing"? The way my kit went on the end of the crank was first the pulley with the integral belt stop facing the crankcase. The pulley is automatically distanced from the oil seal by way of a sloped woodruff keyway slot in the pulley. Then the outer belt stop, then the rotor, then the rotor nut and serrated washer. Stack seems reasonable and well within the outer case. Am about to check the rotor/ stator clearance which I am told should be .008. If itv isn't Roger at RGM suggested I simply " waist" the 5/16 posts added to a little hole filling as you suggest. Stay tuned. My rotor has the timing marks on it so I am wondering if it is actually meant for a Commando. Also on the back side of the rotor there are three punched out dots marked "S", "M", and "R". Anybody know the meaning of these? My stator also has three wires and if I am correct is a 180 watt which I think may also be Commando.

If I remember right it was between the pulley keeper plate and rotor. Thrust washer is probably a better description. Without it, or in my case being too thin, the crank nut would not tighten down to retain the rotor securely. They are often improving the kit and maybe did away with it.

I remember receiving my first RGM belt drive from Clubman Racing that was a mixed lot of old and new that didn’t work in combination. Frank cannibalized a new kit to make it right at no charge. He was a really good guy.

Yea that could have been it. Frank was a good guy. He lived near by in a few towns over from me. He once bought an electric start Commando from me before I really knew about his Clubman Racing. He never said a word about it. I spoke to him not long before he passed and he was looking for someone to take it over. I’m not sure what happened to it all.