Anyone running PINGEL fuel valves on the street?

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I have them on my MKIII for 15 yrs+ and have not done a thing to them , no leaks ,flow and work great,absolutely reliable. Don't know if you can get them with the 1/4" BPT anymore
 
Yes, They work well.
They have rubber o-rings that may eventually be damaged by ethanol fuels.
They are easily rebuildable.
They are not available with British thread [BPT] but the tank bung can be retapped with 1/4 pipe thread .
The Pingle units that fit a 1/4 inch pipe thread do not have a screen. Jim
 
Thanks for the responses. I called out there today, asked if they offer 1/4BSPT. No, they don't, but, I started thinking, they're spitting them out on a CNC lathe, a program and tool insert change would be so easy. He mentioned they run batches of 100, and he would mention the BSPT idea at the next staff meeting. :idea: I mentioned Norton guys would gladly pay double for "jewelry"... :roll: No, I didn't really say that. :lol:

Also, I began wondering about the need for reserve position on the valve... if I fitted a regular no reserve valve on each side, and turned one on, then when the level got below the hump, the other tank "cheek" would be holding about 1-1/2" fuel, which, could then be used as a reserve portion, actually giving more USABLE fuel than I now have using a standpipe type petcock on one side as the main. That cheek never fully drains. Comments? Ideas?
 
concours said:
Thanks for the responses. I called out there today, asked if they offer 1/4BSPT. No, they don't, but, I started thinking, they're spitting them out on a CNC lathe, a program and tool insert change would be so easy. He mentioned they run batches of 100, and he would mention the BSPT idea at the next staff meeting. :idea: I mentioned Norton guys would gladly pay double for "jewelry"... :roll: No, I didn't really say that. :lol:

Also, I began wondering about the need for reserve position on the valve... if I fitted a regular no reserve valve on each side, and turned one on, then when the level got below the hump, the other tank "cheek" would be holding about 1-1/2" fuel, which, could then be used as a reserve portion, actually giving more USABLE fuel than I now have using a standpipe type petcock on one side as the main. That cheek never fully drains. Comments? Ideas?
Click to expand...


Mine are both the same ,no stand pipes , and there is not much reserve, I have an steel interstate tank and will run out of gas pretty quick on the right side after the left side runs dry. I use my trip odometer for fuel stops.
 
5 miles is all I get on my roadster's once I have switched over the second tap. I don't go past service stations now once I am nearing the 100mile mark. Been there, done that. I remember the wife of one of my friends said to me when I was about 20. get a 2 stroke, they are easier to push. Great selling point eh, but I guess that's what you expected back in those days. Cheeky B she was.
 
I always run with just the right tap on and switch to the left when it starts to sputter, usually happens on a down hill grade. I've gone from my house into Hillsboro on the left tap, 11 miles, and put 2.7 gallons in. Didn't realize you run with both on all the time?
 
I bought a set of these for my Scott. Have not installed them yet, so I can't say anything about their performance. However they are just beautiful and should be hung on the wall :D


Anyone running PINGEL fuel valves on the street?

http://scottparts.co.uk/index.php?o...ry_id=12&virtuemart_product_id=189&Itemid=238
 
MikeG said:
I always run with just the right tap on and switch to the left when it starts to sputter, usually happens on a down hill grade. I've gone from my house into Hillsboro on the left tap, 11 miles, and put 2.7 gallons in. Didn't realize you run with both on all the time?
Click to expand...
I usually do that, but Tuesday I was rolling West on 101 at 4K rpm, it sputtered at only 90 miles, reached down and turned on the reserve tap, but it didn't come back alive in seconds, rather, sputtered (anything more than 1/4 throttle) 2 more miles. The tiny tube type standpipe in the tap is the suspect.
 
Now I understand why good Interstate tanks cost a grand. Pretty hard to put up with a 90 mile range!
I have covered nearly three hundred on an Interstate tank and twin Amals without running dry.

Glen
 
MikeG said:
I always run with just the right tap on and switch to the left when it starts to sputter, usually happens on a down hill grade. I've gone from my house into Hillsboro on the left tap, 11 miles, and put 2.7 gallons in. Didn't realize you run with both on all the time?
Click to expand...

I do the same. Running 35mm Keihin FCRs and the single petcock has no problem delivering enough fuel under any and all circumstances.

Mine are set up with differing heights on the standpipes so I get just about a gallon from the reserve.
 
Why not make your own ? I used a couple of brass chrome plated ball valves brass connectors and a bit of soft solder, total cost now, I would reckon not much more than £8.

Result; full flow and no leaks for 40 years.

Money's flat for stacking, so I was told.

Cash
 
cash said:
Why not make your own ? I used a couple of brass chrome plated ball valves brass connectors and a bit of soft solder, total cost now, I would reckon not much more than £8.

Result; full flow and no leaks for 40 years.

Money's flat for stacking, so I was told.

Cash
Click to expand...


Pics please.... :mrgreen:

The money thing..... You use it once it's gone, if you never use it, it's no good at all!
 
We're talking 25 bucks for what appears to be a very nicely made object. If those taps work well, they are a steal at that price. Purchase a few bits to make up your own and I think there is nothing in it.
But sometimes the fun is in making the object. As long as your own labour is valued at zero or nearly zero, nothing wrong with that.
Not going to get much money to stack from making 17£ fuel taps tho!

Glen
 
Anyone running PINGEL fuel valves on the street?

Anyone running PINGEL fuel valves on the street?


Glen,
Sorry I haven't got a spare to show you it in bits. I simply unsolder the reserve tube and filters from the old taps and solder them into the brass BSP fitting.

My mate Clive is even tighter than me, he repairs the old taps the old fitters way. Just remove roughly 0.020" from the small end of the male taper and lap it into the tap body with very fine lapping paste.


"look after the pennies and the pounds look after themselves".
 
Hi Cash,
That's a great idea & super cheap! On a slightly different note, what size MK2s are you using & what jets & more specifically, what needles?
Thanks,
Martyn.
 
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