Anyone have Hyde Rearsets? see my dilemma PICS!

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Guys, your input and advice is always appreciated... I'm fitting my Hyde rearsets and came across this problem with the shifting arm. I know that using rearsets will reverse my shifting but that doesn't bother me. The shifting arm doesn't seat right see pics...
Anyone have Hyde Rearsets? see my dilemma PICS!

If I have the arm pointed upwards, the thickness of the arm doesn't clear the gear indicator on the case cover which keeps the arm from sitting entirely on the knurling. :cry:
Anyone have Hyde Rearsets? see my dilemma PICS!

If I have the arm pointing downwards the nut will hit the casing and the pinch nut on the arm will also hit the gear indicator and this doesn't seem right anyway.

If anyone has a pair Hyde rearsets installed would you mind helping me out? pics or text. Also do these require a thin paper gasket or something?

I purchased these waiting to see what Kenny at NYC would come up with. His sets will definitely be on my wish list in the future. http://nycnorton.com/nyc_products/light ... -controls/

Thanks again guys!
 
Don't have the Hyde rearsets, Have Dunstalls, but I would Use the lower photo, but flip the bolt around, head inward.
 
Rear sets are always a compromise of one thing or another. I've never used Hydes but have always used rear sets on my Nortons. I would try getting a much shorter bolt, and using a Nylok jam nut that is much thinner to clear the case.
 
bwolfie said:
Don't have the Hyde rearsets, Have Dunstalls, but I would Use the lower photo, but flip the bolt around, head inward.

As you can see that won't work either. The arm won't sit entirely on the spines without gouging into the side cover and if that weren't enough of a problem the pinch nut also won't clear the gear indicator on the casing as well! I'm SOL here guys :?
Anyone have Hyde Rearsets? see my dilemma PICS!
 
You could get a longer adjusting linkage rod so that the gear spline is in a different position, I am in a few weeks going to build my own rear sets for my project Slimline Manxman cafe racer, but I am going to make all the linkages so that it runs the same gear patten, but each bike is different of course and there are so many after market rear sets around, finding the right set up for your needs is the hardest thing to do, that's why I am going to make my own.

Ashley
 
The sawed-off shifter must face up, and the bolt on that end must be inserted from the tranny side out with the nut on the outside.

As was mentioned, you can slightly relieve the gear indicator casting to give you a bit more clearance.

Also try flipping the sawed off shifter one way, then the other; see which direction gives you more clearance to the gear indicator.
 
383,

Take a stock shift lever. Position in straight up and cut it off so your arm from the rear sets is level and you have enough room to drill a hole to put your bolt through. You can put a short bushing in the new hole on the modified shift arm as well.

Since the stock lever has an immediate bend it will clear your gear box no problem.

Matt / Colorado Norton Works

http://www.coloradonortonworks.com
 
You've got it installed all wrong. Maybe Google a picture of the Hyde set-up. Actually, the very first pic (arm pointed up) is the correct orientation but something isn't right. I didn't have a problem like that with my Hyde Rearsets. Also, the shift pattern does NOT change with these or most rearsets (excluding CNW's beautiful creation).
 
On my Hyde rearsets (MK 3) the small shifter arm points down and has approx 30 degree bend outwards starting just below the splined part to clear the case, maybe you could heat yours and bend it slightly ?
sam
 
Never a fan of that linkage, reverse the gear lever then use a reversed or reversible cam plate if need be.
 
383wss said:
Guys, your input and advice is always appreciated... I'm fitting my Hyde rearsets and came across this problem with the shifting arm. I know that using rearsets will reverse my shifting but that doesn't bother me.

Hey there 383wss
As Les says, if you keep the linkage straight (either up top or running underneath) your shift pattern won't change.

383wss said:
If I have the arm pointed upwards, the thickness of the arm doesn't clear the gear indicator on the case cover which keeps the arm from sitting entirely on the knurling. :cry:
If I have the arm pointing downwards the nut will hit the casing and the pinch nut on the arm will also hit the gear indicator and this doesn't seem right anyway.

The quick and dirty solution here is to keep it pointing downwards and use a botton-head fastener, inserted from the back, to achieve the clearance. Or even better, drill in a countersink and use a countersunk fastener.

383wss said:
I purchased these waiting to see what Kenny at NYC would come up with. His sets will definitely be on my wish list in the future. http://nycnorton.com/nyc_products/light ... -controls/

And we have finally come up with it!
Full Commando rearset kits available now, as seen at our link you listed

-Kenny
 
RGM sell the splined gearbox lever as a separate part at a reasonable price, this could solve the problem.
 
I'm going to offend a few people but the only thing made shoddier than Dunstall stuff is Hyde.

That being said, arm goes below and as was mentioned, button head screw should clear.
 
L.A.B. said:
swooshdave said:
arm goes below and as was mentioned,

On the Hyde kit, the gearbox arm goes above (except Mk3).

For the cranked linkage to work effectively, both arms need to be at, or close to right angles to the linkage rod.

http://www.britcycle.com/Manuals/541108Ainst.pdf

LAB,

thanks for the link. Even the shift arm doesn't look like the one I have, the one pictured in the pic definitely shows an offset design to it. Maybe mine was switched over at one point from the man I purchased it from. More stuff to consider.
 
Hello,

I had the Norman Hyde rearsets on my Commando.

My 2 cents:
you have to file away the gear indicator on the gearbox [I did.....who needs it?] .....then it will fit. Gear lever pointing up!

Hope your moped is easy to start!

tell you why: because you have to put the kickstart behind your footrest......you loose way for kicking [hope you get me :shock: ]

if you have the chance to get some Dunstalls [or replica-Dunstalls]: take them and put it on ....
you will happier with them!

have a nice day, chris
 
All the other rearsets are futher back, with the hyde ones you shin hits the kick start, the RGM folding starter may clear your foot but I think it will foul the linkage.
The laidover starters OK until it doesn't want to start ie; wet sumped
The riding position is a vast improvement over the std setup, low bars and if you can the Hyde seat is very comfortable
 
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