Any recommended cleaning products for Engine?

Hello everyone, I was finally able to get my norton nice and running and now I want it to look good as well. Does anybody recommend any good cleaning products to clean the cylinder head? It appears like drips of oil were getting on it and now they seem very hard to remove. Thanks for looking mates!

monjebricks

If it hasn't burnt on too hard I have good luck with just paint thinner and an old tooth brush.

yeah . lacquer thinner . ACETONE . from builders supplies by the gallion . oops.

Beware as Solvent. could lead to tears . dont spill it on the paintwork .

http://www.parchem.com.au/CONSTRUCTION/ ... prodID=113

This outfit do a range of alkaline metal cleaners . There rust stuff , the Emer Tan isnt to bad , but $80 Gal .
Developed for non corrosive resoration of artifacts , roofs ( copper ones ) and cleaning pieces of eight if
you find the odd sack full . :?

" Elbow grease & a bloody toothbrush" -nah, but - it kind of depends on how filthy she is & how baked on, or if its furry...

Monjebricks said:

Does anybody recommend any good cleaning products to clean the cylinder head? It appears like drips of oil were getting on it and now they seem very hard to remove.

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Dry ice cleaning can be done in situ and it is very good at removing this kind of stuff.



Tim

I've been using S100 for years.

Broken link removed

Monjebricks said:

products to clean the cylinder head?

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A very fine wirebrush dipped in petrol. I use a fine round wire brush to clean between the fins. Looks like its been polished.

Monjebricks said:

Hello everyone, I was finally able to get my norton nice and running and now I want it to look good as well. Does anybody recommend any good cleaning products to clean the cylinder head? It appears like drips of oil were getting on it and now they seem very hard to remove. Thanks for looking mates!

monjebricks

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Nothing works like Gunk. Spray it on and work it around with a toothbrush and rinse. But make sure you rinse off the toothbrush really well before using it on your teeth again.

Robb2014 said:

Nothing works like Gunk. Spray it on and work it around with a toothbrush and rinse. But make sure you rinse off the toothbrush really well before using it on your teeth again.

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I use the 'scrubbing bubbles' bathroom cleaner. Works like a champ on most everything, doesn't harm paint or yellow metals, is cheap and easy to come by. Been using it about 20 years now. Started when I ran out of Gunk one time, and grabbed this stuff. Found it worked better, smelled better, and rinsed more cleanly.

For cleaning stuff like burnt-on oil or gas residue, I use Acetone. Just don't use it on paint. A cotton swab dipped in acetone does a nice job cleaning inside the head fins.

Brass wire wheel!

Fastest, Easiest, Best thing I have found.
Been using one for years on everything cast aluminum (head, cases, ect...)

Monjebricks said:

Hello everyone, I was finally able to get my norton nice and running and now I want it to look good as well. Does anybody recommend any good cleaning products to clean the cylinder head? It appears like drips of oil were getting on it and now they seem very hard to remove. Thanks for looking mates!

monjebricks

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solvents will remove the remaining silver paint on the head, do you really want to do that? The dark gray stains are corroded aluminum where the paint has already come off.
yes the heads were painted:
post101517.html?hilit=cases paint silver#p101517

Silver paint on head ???

Mark said:

Brass wire wheel!

Fastest, Easiest, Best thing I have found.
Been using one for years on everything cast aluminum (head, cases, ect...)

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Just don't buy the ones from Harbor Freight......they'll last about 2.5 seconds!

A stainless steel wire brush will dress up aluminum nicely after removing grease!

One thing not to be aware of are alkaline detergents that are left on Al for very long as there are horror stories of a head and parts put in dishwaher with dish detergent. The head alloy is definitely a darker alloy than cases and covers and will not brighten up by just cleaning only made shiny'r by rubbing smoother methods. Not that's its much an issue for non racers but Al is the best mirror known when polished and very effective IR-heat photon reflector, in both directions, so stifles heat radiation to exterior surface to blow away. What is really the mystery to solve is once nice finish how to keep it that way w/o covering up the smooth clear shine on hot metal that gets oil on it now and then. I've had some success of about 1.5 yr on cases I've spray clear wheel coat on but that takes some shine texture off and eventually wears off in blotches, but while it lasts sure makes wipe off or wash offs faster easier from road grime. I highly reccomend not to use oven or BBQ grill detergents as eats through Al surfaces while still foaming up before even finishing application, then must use the rub off devices to restore, so should of just done that to begin with. There is clear powder coat and some new age surface treatments that might seal over a nice finish. My heavy duty cleaners are gasoline or diesel and then good ole evaporating non-lubing wd40 solvent.

On my 74 the cases and head were definitely painted, silver of course.
If anybody knows of a fuel proof paint speak up.

bmwbob said:

I've been using S100 for years.

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+1 this stuff is good, but not TOO good! cleans and doesnt take paint off.

I've been happy with Mr. Moto wash. gets my oily and gas stained (from the ticklers) engine looking good...

Use rubber gloves, especially when using Acetone..and don't breath that shit either.

I use a degreaser detergent for cleaning workshop floors, use it straight in a spray bottle, I spray it on my motor when its still hot let sit for about 30 seconds then hose it off, then do it again for good luck and my motor comes up like a million bucks, I also do the rest of the bike except the major paint work, great on any alloy and frame, knocks the grease and oil straight off.

Ashley